Running a mild 1916 engine in 58 bug so need to keep it cool but are there any alternatives to stand offs . I was thinking of getting vents punched into deck lid (hot rod style)as i have had tail light deleted and smoothed out,but i figure that this may not be able to be done otherwise i think you would see a few bugs about with it done. Maybe there is too much of a curve in vw deck lid to set up punching press. Has anyone tried to have this done, or seen it done before? or any other cool ideas ?
Hi
You could take out the front breast plate, but expect to get a dirty motor.
Find a 2 vent 71 deck lid and have these vents welded in, very factory looking like on fullnoise/CTs car.
Steve
get more fresh air coming in like daimo did on his bug. 🙂
are you talking the old punch out style louvers?
people have done that with bug decklids for decades
but i still think original style vents would let alot more air flow in
like steve said graft in some 70-71 vents
I have sat mu number plate out about an inch and cut the metal away underneath
Futue te ipsum!!!
Golf bonnets have grills that work, looks early and a bent golf bonnet is otherwise worthless.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
ol hillbilly boy wrote:Running a mild 1916 engine in 58 bug so need to keep it cool but are there any alternatives to stand offs .
or any other cool ideas ?
Hi
I believe standoffs work excellent...
even if many people don't like the look...
and people keep telling Me "do You know Your engine cover is falling off.."
I don't believe the punched out vents do much at all..
the two vents from a 1970-72 engine lid grafted into Your
engine cover would be MUCH better ..
even placing Your number plate out about 50mm and cutting
the metal out from behind it would be good..
the 1968 1500 beetle with no vents engine cover...
their engines get too hot in the summer...
clever idea about the Golf grill... lol
LEE
Rat beetle with vents added...
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Hi, volkswagen disigned the engine bay to be sealed, it is then pressurized by the air flow over the car through the louvers, it is most important that the seal around the engine is intact and sealing well with all the engine tin in place , also the boot seal is in good condition, i have had many large engines in my car over the years with no overheating problems, if there is a problem then you should have a look at how the engine has been built and set up, stand offs to me look ugly and ruin the lines of the car.
Another option to stand offs is to prop the bottom of the lid out, doesnt look quite so obvious. Not sure how effective it is either. Someone on the samba was selling billet catches that held the bottom of lid out an inch or two.
Tennis ball also props the bottom out, its bit effective on my car.
SuperOwen wrote:Another option to stand offs is to prop the bottom of the lid out, doesnt look quite so obvious. Not sure how effective it is either. Someone on the samba was selling billet catches that held the bottom of lid out an inch or two.
it will allow the fan to suck in more air...??
but having the top of the engine bay open a few inches really makes a difference..
air can flow into the engine bay when You are driving...
and it Lets the HEAT out when You are stopped....
remember the fan sucks air from inside the engine bay...
Very Hot air is expelled out the bottom and out of the doghouse oil cooler...
the seal around the engine keeps the HOT air below the engine so the fan cannot suck in HOT air...
Driving without an engine lid wouldn't make the engine run any hotter.... IMHO... lol
the engine FAN [and carburetor/s] need cool air
so the rubber seal keeps the HOT air beneath the engine ...
where it should be.... lol
LEE
This is My Humble Opinion...
PS: If You live where the temperature is blow freezing, and it snows... the above is NOT recommended..
photo shows what to do in freezing weather....
[My heat risers were blocked and carby was freezing up]
It worked too....
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
looks effective lee....
68AutoBug wrote:but having the top of the engine bay open a few inches really makes a difference..
air can flow into the engine bay when You are driving...
and it Lets the HEAT out when You are stopped....
remember the fan sucks air from inside the engine bay...
agreed
i had a 4 vent decklid on my bug so the best flowing one available and on a 38c day i could drop my oil temp by 20c putting the standoffs on
Joel wrote:68AutoBug wrote:but having the top of the engine bay open a few inches really makes a difference..
air can flow into the engine bay when You are driving...
and it Lets the HEAT out when You are stopped....
remember the fan sucks air from inside the engine bay...
agreed
i had a 4 vent decklid on my bug so the best flowing one available and on a 38c day i could drop my oil temp by 20c putting the standoffs on
EXCELLENT NEWS JOEL...
20C IS A GREAT DROP IN TEMPERATURE...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
What a Helpful Thread,Well Done Guys.🙂
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
i hate to think of all the early beetles out there with non vented lids running doghouse engines in summer
the factory put vents in when doghouse motors started for a good reason. they even doubled the number of vents the following year
im skeptical of propping the bottom out.... the old tennis ball trick
would be fine at speed but at low speeds i reckon a venturie affect would have the fan pulling in alot of heat coming off the exhaust and heads
alot of nuked kombis from people propping the doggy door open
Assuming its the look of stand-offs you don't like (and that's understandable), why not build a custom stand-off arrangement driven by e.g. a stepper motor (v. inexpensive at your local electronics store) so you can open it on hot days, when the oil temperature gets too high etc., but readily close it on rainy or cooler days, or when parked. Some Porsches use something in this to raise and lower the whale/tail/intercooler.
hth.
Peter Hill
1975 Type 2 Double Cab
modulus.com.auelectronically opened ones have been discussed on the samba a fair bit
the main problem is the lip on the top of the decklid
it would need shaving off and welding up so the lid could get out passed the body but doing that would let all the rain pour in on the engine with it gone
i made a manual setup about 8 years ago before i knew about glenns hood jaks, used to take 2 mins to fit or remove
Joel wrote:i hate to think of all the early beetles out there with non vented lids running doghouse engines in summer
Hi
Bugs from 73 on even had bigger vents below the back window to help with cooling.
Steve
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Bugs from 73 on even had bigger vents below the back window to help with cooling.
Steve
NOW THAT IS SOMETHING I DIDN'T KNOW....
I CAN'T REMEMBER SEEING THAT WRITTEN ANYWHERE..
I know the rear window got larger....
and I know that 1976 beetles had a flap behind the number plate that opened at a certain temperature...
LEE
PS: I'm getting My tape measure out... lol
-
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Hi Lee
Its very noticeable. This about the only photo that I had.
Steve
Great pic...
Yes, You can see the vents are wider spaced...
maybe fit a finger in them....
much easier to paint behind them too....
I'll have to keep a look out now...
cheers
LEE
---
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Thanks one and all for your replys . Yes it is the look that puts me off.(and every one telling me my bonnets open)lthough i can see that it is the best way to get air in there. Love the pic of the ol school vents on the black bug Joel sent it makes me think that if the first say 3 rows of vents were up side down this would drag a bit more air .I know it would also be a rain funnel but this is also the case with stand offs . Thank again
Is there the possibility to perhaps mount an external oil cooler on the car?
Like this posibly
http://www.bergmannvw.net/external_oil_cooler_kits.htm
Can't say I've had experience with them, but I'm sure sombody on here has.
2.0slow 92 MK2
Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia
Out of interest how difficult is it to install stand offs? is it just a matter of changing hinges?
if you go for VWCOOLs hoodjak kit its very simple
initial install just needs 2 10mm holes drilled in the hinge brakets as seen on steves bug above
then they just fit with R clips
there are other kits out there that relocate the hinge brackets but there a bit of effort to fit and remove
ryan those cooler kits are designed for mounting undeneath near the gearbox
Hi
Hoodjacks work really well.
If you have good paint they can be scary to work with, the clips that come with them really scratched the shit out of the new paint on the hinges on Davids car, I should have scrounged some 40HP dipsticks like I had on my yellow bug, they didn't hurt the paint.
Steve
You see the 40HP dipsticks in the hinges in this photo,
I have a 66 T1 with a tweaked 1600, I run a lower decklid standoff, since fitting 40 idf carbs. I have run the car both stood off and factory set. I had issues with the carbs getting hot when the lid was closed to the point that they would begin to jam, the standoff prevents this from happening even on 40oC days here in Perth
Paulc1964au wrote:Out of interest how difficult is it to install stand offs? is it just a matter of changing hinges?
NO changing hinges...
so You don't have to fiddle with getting Your engine lid on straight...
You just knock out the pins in the hinges..
R clips do scratch the paint and are difficult to push in & out...
dipsticks or bolts etc.. work OK..
I have allen key headed bolts in mine with a nyloc nut on the end..
I used to have the alloy type that moved the hinges outwards..
they worked OK...
but after moving the hinges...
it took Me a year to get the engine lid aligned again....
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
