We have to decide what to do with my wife's 66/67 beetle. We'd love to keep it. The engine was rebuilt about 50,000 Miles ago with all original 1300 heads - all kept stock. We never got the rust done and it needs a clean up, new seals, bodywork. We're stuck between using it around town and getting rid of a newer car to finance it or selling it.
I think it all comes down to your passion or your wife's love for this car. If she is attached to it, go for it and spend the money it deserves. Your wife might prefer driving around in a more modern car. Her call !!
Just my thoughts, Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
tomandcelia wrote:We have to decide what to do with my wife's 66/67 beetle. We'd love to keep it. The engine was rebuilt about 50,000 Miles ago with all original 1300 heads - all kept stock. We never got the rust done and it needs a clean up, new seals, bodywork. We're stuck between using it around town and getting rid of a newer car to finance it or selling it.
Any ideas?
really depends on how good it is mechanically....
I replaced just about everything on My 68 Beetle and it drives just like a new 1968 beetle... excellent...
but I also spent a lot of money on new parts...
depends on what Your Wife likes....
driving an old looking etc car every day...
"ROSE" on Here drives Her beetles most of the time...
but She is a VW NUT.. lol
You could probably find a nice low mileage newer car
that would give You good service...
and low maintainance... [compared to the beetle]
If You can maintain , tune etc the beetle Yourself...
no worries... otherwise it can get expensive...
as beetles need constant tuning and oil changes...
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
if you can live with the performance the only mods i'd do is disc front brakes, especially if your in the city and fit a good quality electronic ignition setup not a cheap empi POS that will leave you stranded sooner or later
Horses for courses... I used Jezebel my race beetle as a daily driver for a week. The car didn't have any issues, but don't know how long my license would have lasted if I'd kept it up !!!
😉
But yeah - give it the loving maintenance it needs, and sure - why not.
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'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
Joel - yes it is in 12 Volt format. We did that about 12 years ago.
I stopped driving it about a year and a half ago when I found myself wanting something more modern to get me out to work 40km through the outer suburban 80 90 and 100km/h zones. It'll do those speeds but won't keep up with bogans in V8 commodores at the lights as readily as the modern runabout I now drive. At the time my wife was ferrying very small kids to child care and the supermarket. The kids are a bit older now and easier to chuck in the back.
One precedent that put me off was that I sold a more modern car years ago to pay for a kombi which then needed much money spent on it. The kombi turned out to be really thirsty, even with an engine rebuilt and good maintenance, just at the point that fuel went from 90c/L to 1.25/L. It was also big and needed more financial attention than I could give it. Not nearly as ergonomic or as well designed as a beetle IMHO ...
However, I'm wary of making the same mistake again.
I can't see why the 66 couldn't be a good daily, I have been driving my 67 Deluxe as a daily driver since 2002, and have been able to maintain it myself over that time, off course there was some issues with things just being old and worn but get them replaced and it's good.
The car has also been absolutely abused with me learning on it, driving on my P's and the daily commute from Hornsby to Bondi when I lived in Hornsby. It really has not had a problem and to be honest not that thirsty. It has been used on long trips I used to live in Coffs, had family in Canberra and Brisbane, Sydney that I would work for and visit and covered the miles with no problem and gave pretty good milage. Not to mention living between Armidale and Coffs during Uni, up and down the mountain!! As a car I really havn't been able to fault it, yeah it's old and not as quick but to be honest consistancy and paitience usually winds up better in the long run!
Versatility isn't a problem either, with a good roofrack nothing can't be carried!!
Lee there's nothing wrong with the stock drum brakes on pre '68 Aussie Beetles, as long as they are maintained in good condition and you drive the car as it was intended - ie as an everyday commuter.
Yes a '67 Beetle can still make a good commuter, but it's essential that all the running gear be in good condition, and the 5,000 km maintenance schedule is followed diligently. Your car has been sitting for a while, so it's important to go through all the basics thoroughly:
* Service the engine - change the oil, clean the strainer, adjust the tappets, replace the points, condensor, rotor and plugs. Adjust the timing, clean and adjust the carb and replace the oil in the air cleaner. Check the exhaust and heat exchangers for looseness, or missing pieces, or holes. Check the heater cable ends and make sure thety work properly. Check all the flexible fuel hoses - replace any that look old, stiff or worn.
* Replace the gearbox oil and check the axle boots for splits.
* Check and adjust the clutch - should have 25mm or less free travel at the pedal.
* Grease the front end thoroughy, check for king/link pin wear. Check steering play and adjust if required. Check steering gear oil level. Make sure sway bar mountings are tight. Check toe-in.
* Replace the brake fluid, and adjust the brakes and handbrake. Check for any fluid leaks.
* Check all the electrics work - headlights, brake lights, blinkers, wipers, horn.
Take your VW to a VW specialist and have him do all this, if it sounds a bit daunting.
I forgot to add that the tyres might be flat-spotted and out of round if they've been sitting for 18 months. You might need to treat yourself to four new tyres and a wheel balance. It would also be well worthwhile to take the front wheel bearings apart and give them a repack with new grease too. Oil the door and bonnet hinges, and grease the bonnet latches and door striker plates. Blow graphite into the ignition lock and the door locks. These are the sorts of things the VW dealers used to do in the good 'ol days.
Love to go to Wakefield on Sat Greg but my daughter and I will be spending the arvo at home, making cup-cakes to sell at the Nats on Sunday. See you on Sunday hopefully...
Phil74Camper wrote:I forgot to add that the tyres might be flat-spotted and out of round if they've been sitting for 18 months. You might need to treat yourself to four new tyres and a wheel balance. It would also be well worthwhile to take the front wheel bearings apart and give them a repack with new grease too. Oil the door and bonnet hinges, and grease the bonnet latches and door striker plates. Blow graphite into the ignition lock and the door locks. These are the sorts of things the VW dealers used to do in the good 'ol days.
Love to go to Wakefield on Sat Greg but my daughter and I will be spending the arvo at home, making cup-cakes to sell at the Nats on Sunday. See you on Sunday hopefully...
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Phil74Camper wrote:Love to go to Wakefield on Sat Greg but my daughter and I will be spending the arvo at home, making cup-cakes to sell at the Nats on Sunday. See you on Sunday hopefully...
I'll have to go on Sunday now, just to get some of those cup-cakes!
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
Phil74Camper wrote:I forgot to add that the tyres might be flat-spotted and out of round if they've been sitting for 18 months. You might need to treat yourself to four new tyres and a wheel balance. It would also be well worthwhile to take the front wheel bearings apart and give them a repack with new grease too. Oil the door and bonnet hinges, and grease the bonnet latches and door striker plates. Blow graphite into the ignition lock and the door locks. These are the sorts of things the VW dealers used to do in the good 'ol days.
Love to go to Wakefield on Sat Greg but my daughter and I will be spending the arvo at home, making cup-cakes to sell at the Nats on Sunday. See you on Sunday hopefully...
Love cup cakes...
Drum brakes MUST be OK if they were on all beetles sold in North America.. even the 1978 cabriolets still had drum brakes
I could never work out why this was..??
All beetles sold in North America from 1969 had IRS rear end.
but drum brakes..
the only major disadvantage with drum brakes was going thru river or creek crossings...
get to the other side and no brakes... lol
but seeing the majority of beetle owners don't drive thru creek or river crossings.... no problems...
I hope to be there on Sunday too..
most moving parts, like carby linkages, door hinges, pedal shafts etc were all oiled etc at every oil change
along with the front end which was greased with Lithium based MOLY grease [as recommended by VW]
I still oil every moving part I can find including the carburetor shafts...
If the tyres were pumped up, I couldn't see any problems..
I've only ever noticed tyres being flat at the bottom when left airless for a very long time..
I know that VW owners in North America put their cars on jack stands over the winter period.. [winter storage]
Phil74Camper wrote:Lee there's nothing wrong with the stock drum brakes on pre '68 Aussie Beetles, as long as they are maintained in good condition and you drive the car as it was intended - ie as an everyday commuter.
Yes a '67 Beetle can still make a good commuter, but it's essential that all the running gear be in good condition, and the 5,000 km maintenance schedule is followed diligently. Your car has been sitting for a while, so it's important to go through all the basics thoroughly:
* Service the engine - change the oil, clean the strainer, adjust the tappets, replace the points, condensor, rotor and plugs. Adjust the timing, clean and adjust the carb and replace the oil in the air cleaner. Check the exhaust and heat exchangers for looseness, or missing pieces, or holes. Check the heater cable ends and make sure thety work properly. Check all the flexible fuel hoses - replace any that look old, stiff or worn.
* Replace the gearbox oil and check the axle boots for splits.
* Check and adjust the clutch - should have 25mm or less free travel at the pedal.
* Grease the front end thoroughy, check for king/link pin wear. Check steering play and adjust if required. Check steering gear oil level. Make sure sway bar mountings are tight. Check toe-in.
* Replace the brake fluid, and adjust the brakes and handbrake. Check for any fluid leaks.
* Check all the electrics work - headlights, brake lights, blinkers, wipers, horn.
Take your VW to a VW specialist and have him do all this, if it sounds a bit daunting.
I agree with the above and to improve the brakes I fit a VH44 booster,the difference is incredible & the cost is reasonable,this was carried out on my Ghia over 25 years ago when I was commuting from Taree to Forster to work(40km's each way) daily.It saved my bacon a lot of times.I also ran my 1967 1300 for a couple of years since i moved back to work in taree with no problems
68AutoBug wrote:Drum brakes MUST be OK if they were on all beetles sold in North America.. even the 1978 cabriolets still had drum brakes
I could never work out why this was..??
The exchange rate between the West German mark and the US dollar at the time was quite fluid and it was Volkswagen's decision to cut a corner on the cost of manufacture that led to this.
tomandcelia wrote:We have to decide what to do with my wife's 66/67 beetle. We'd love to keep it. The engine was rebuilt about 50,000 Miles ago with all original 1300 heads - all kept stock. We never got the rust done and it needs a clean up, new seals, bodywork. We're stuck between using it around town and getting rid of a newer car to finance it or selling it.
Any ideas?
I have my '65 Standard as my daily driver for work and general running around, including taking my eldest to and from school and all his after school activities. He asks if we're going in the X-Trail or the Beetle. His face lights up when I say the Beetle. At least you have a fuel gauge in your car.
Do your scheduled maintenance and renew what has to be renewed, and you'll be fine. It doesn't have to be in showroom condition, just roadworthy condition.
Fix it, drive it and enjoy it.
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is!
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
grumble wrote:I agree with the above and to improve the brakes I fit a VH44 booster,the difference is incredible & the cost is reasonable,this was carried out on my Ghia over 25 years ago when I was commuting from Taree to Forster to work(40km's each way) daily.It saved my bacon a lot of times.I also ran my 1967 1300 for a couple of years since i moved back to work in taree with no problems
OK... WHAT IS A VH44 BOOSTER ??
AND WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?
A ROUND BLACK BRAKE BOOSTER???
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I use a '67 1300 beetle as my daily drive in Brisbane. I'm not going through stop/start traffic, and mostly just 60-80kmh roads, about 20mins each way typically. Its cheap to run compared to a Kombi, but there is more regular maintenance than a 'modern' car. I'd probably put one of the disc brake kits in for ease of maintenance as much as anything if you are in stop/start, using the brakes more. The drums are fine if you drive appropriately, leaving reasonable space etc. Mine is absolutely stock, even 6V although I will be changing that at some time.
It comes down to how much you like driving an old car, to put up with its temper tantrums from time to time. Worst I've had with mine so far is a broken clutch cable and broken gennie pulley, and it had been off the road for several years before I got it. The cable broke going from 1st to second from home, so only about 20m down the road. The pulley I picked up from a strange noise, so I haven't been left stranded by either.
grumble wrote:I agree with the above and to improve the brakes I fit a VH44 booster,the difference is incredible & the cost is reasonable,this was carried out on my Ghia over 25 years ago when I was commuting from Taree to Forster to work(40km's each way) daily.It saved my bacon a lot of times.I also ran my 1967 1300 for a couple of years since i moved back to work in taree with no problems
OK... WHAT IS A VH44 BOOSTER ??
AND WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?
A ROUND BLACK BRAKE BOOSTER???
LEE
That is exactly what it is Lee,a universal brake booster that we in the trade have fitted to everything from minis,land rovers,EH holdens,vW's over the past 40 years.It fits neatly under the fuel tank on the opposite side to the master cylinder,a vacuum line runs back to the inlet manifold to supply the boost and "viola"good brakes.
When driving in your 1966/67 Deluxe, can you deal with....
The noise: engine, wind, rattles, tyre roar etc.
The smell of petrol, when it splashes out of the filler.
The flat low back seats.
The thin rimmed steering wheel.
The lack of air-conditioning during a hot summer's day.
Tom, there is just no comparison, when comparing the comfort of 'new' car (MY 2000 - 2010) to a '66-67 Beetle.