Hey guys i'm painting my dub a really nice red...and its expensive paint!
so i want to know the best way to paint it and then finish the surface by polishing it!
do i sand between coats? do 4 coats and buff? clear over base?
I know how to paint but i want to know the best way to get the glossiest finish with acrylic!
Stu
Why 1k? and do you know how to cut and buff?
i like 1k because its easy to spray and if i get a run quite easy to get out... and i have heard i should be able to get it a better finish than 2k because you can eventually have no orange peel at all! and yes i can cut and buff 🙂
You don't need a clear coat over acrylic, but if u want to have a low maintenance high gloss, put on clear coat. Otherwise its a matter of polish and wax every month to keep it a glamour and remove the oxidisation, well its what i experienced with a vehicle out in the weather all the time.
The instructions should be written on the can itself usually, but a semi fine grit say 800 to 1000 on the primer, then spray ur coats of red without sanding between, probably only need max of 3 coats, red tends to be more opaque than say yellow depending on brand, then after drying, sand the base with 1200 finish with 1500 (and even then use 2000 afterwards if ur really bord) till everywhere has been polished, then use a 'after paint' cutting compound (hand or buff) to get that final grit polish. K&N make it as well as others, its in a small can like a bog style can, sometimes green, very gritty goop in the paint section.
then hand polish/wax. or even do another cut/polish for the final fine cut. Buff with anti-swirl polish will leave a swirl free finish as opposed to hand polish.
I am not a professional painter. far from it. but this is what i have gained/learned after 2.5 spray jobs on 3 cars (ones still in 'leu' lol).
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Oh, and i noticed, if u make the first coat a quick very light skim (so much so u can see the primer still) and allow it to flash it seems to make the world a difference in preventing runs and wierd reactions to undercoats.
Orange peal can be removed in the sanding process of the base coat when finishing.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Acrylic laquer is easy. Just paint 4 thin coats, rub with 1200, paint 4 more thin coats, rub with 1200. Then if when you are right into it, do that process one more time, and after 10 litres of paint, 20 litres of thinner and 100 half sheets of 1200, then you can start buffing. You can get an awesome finish that way, and any of the dozens of other ways that a lot of people can do it.
The same process can be done with 2K paints. A superior finish is related to time spent. There are no short cuts that you can use to make magic paint finishes quickly. However painters experience, paint quality, application technique, environment and equipment do also contribute to making a superior paint finish.
Thanks guys thats some great info! 😀
listen to Hellbus n Lowbug they paint 4 a living
