In my '75 bay I've been having a problem. I have a facet style pump and cannot find a decent place to mount it. Preferably I'd like to put it on the engine or transmission somewhere as it pretty much silences the maddening rattle. If I have to I'll put it on the body.
There always seems to be something interfering. Where do people put them so they aren't incinerated, crushed etc?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Hmmm
I went down this route a few months ago Tristan, then aborted the whole issue. Got a new mechanical pump from George for $45.
Do you really need the elec pump lol., Mechanical is so so much easier, quieter and simple.
Which motor? I hope you say typeIV. my mech pump leaks and the output pipe has been known to come adrift.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Guessing it's not for a typeIV then.
The best spots would require me doing something like drilling into the structural members near the back. i don't want to do that.
I'm also not stupid enough to put the fuel pump in the engine bay, although that is where I have the fuel reg and altogether too much fuel hose. They really packed everything in on the baywindows. Great fun.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I have seen them mounted in the engine bay drivers side .
on that side rail .
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
mine is on the fire wall behind the donk on both my rides a 71 and 74 just have it connected with the coil positive wire they say you should have a dead man that cuts the power to it in case you have a crash mine just turns on and of with the key
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
thanks for the info everyone. Would I be able to ask for some slightly more specific descriptions though because I'm having a shade of trouble figuring out exactly where the locations are.
Both sound like they are internal to the engine bay and possibly higher than the bottom of the fuel tank. The idea of mounting in there still makes me very nervous. I nearly had a fire when my mech pump blew its output line and that was underneath!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
ian.mezz wrote:I have seen them mounted in the engine bay drivers side .
on that side rail .
YIKES
A disaster waiting to happen...
Keep them out of the engine bay and away from heat...
Mine is mounted on the bulkhead behind the fuel tank...
I also have an On Off switch under the dash...
so I can switch it OFF at any time...
The pump only works with the ignition ON... switch ON
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
General_Failure wrote:In my '75 bay I've been having a problem. I have a facet style pump and cannot find a decent place to mount it. Preferably I'd like to put it on the engine or transmission somewhere as it pretty much silences the maddening rattle. If I have to I'll put it on the body.
There always seems to be something interfering. Where do people put them so they aren't incinerated, crushed etc?
ok i SEE yOU DON'T HAVE A BEETLE... LOL
🙅🙅🙅
SO LONG AS ITS NOT IN THE ENGINE BAY...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
the pump in the engine bay isn't going to matter as the entire fuel tank sits in the engine bay in kombis 😂
anyway the way vw engines are sealed into the engine bay all the heat is kept underneath outside of the engine bay
Tristan, as long as its pretty close to the tank but lower than it shuld be fine
just mount it on a rubber block, works wonders for shutting mine up
Joel wrote:the pump in the engine bay isn't going to matter as the entire fuel tank sits in the engine bay in kombis 😂
anyway the way vw engines are sealed into the engine bay all the heat is kept underneath outside of the engine bay
Tristan, as long as its pretty close to the tank but lower than it shuld be fine
just mount it on a rubber block, works wonders for shutting mine up
Cool. but where???
All the good places are taken. They are all too close to the following: Hot air tubes, head, cylinder, axle, starter, trailing arm, miscellaneous hot / moving / electrified bits.
Just thought I'd add I have a "dead man switch."
Last year I rewired the engine bay so most of it functions via a tachometric relay. Unfortunately I was unable to add the ignition coil to that circuit because without that resistive load things get awful weird and also damaging to the electrical system. I understand the reasons so no-one waste their time explaining
😉
The hot air being kept below the tinware is irrelevant. What is relevant is that petrol flows downhill. Down there is where all the searing hot metal lies.
The fuel tank is sort of in the engine bay yeah, but it's not IN the engine bay. It is forward, above the transmission. If the fitting comes loose there it just dumps on to the ground (or my face).
I had an electric diaphragm pump for a while that was pretty easy to mount, but it pretty much went short circuit so I had to replace it. Good pump. From a Mitsubishi. When the van was idling it sounded like a heart beat.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
ah good to see they re-thought things after splitties and lowlights which have the tank just behind the shroud.
could you mount a bracket off the side of the engine bay somewhere to keep it close to the tank but below the outlet?
There is a train of thought of keeping the pump slightly above the tank to keep the probability of syphoning through a bad needle/seat to a minimum.
Personally I think there a some here that are paronoid when it comes to fuel, filters and the like. If your engine is searing heat, it must be running way too hot. Fuel needs an ignition source to ignite and a hose to fail, not uncommon as there's plenty of poorly maintained vehicles out there. Quality hose and clamps and regular maintenance is what's required.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
mine is mounted above tank height, also as for fire these old rides have been around for over 30 years so should be ok for another just keep all hoses new and filters away from sparks as to where, mine are over towards the drivers side near the relay the reason on that spot is there are no other stuff in the way when i drill and its easy to reach
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
greedy53 wrote:mine is mounted above tank height, also as for fire these old rides have been around for over 30 years so should be ok for another just keep all hoses new and filters away from sparks as to where, mine are over towards the drivers side near the relay the reason on that spot is there are no other stuff in the way when i drill and its easy to reach
I'd be mad to mount mine there. That's where my regulator, a couple of relays and the fuseblock for the engine bay are.
There has to be some place I haven't considered yet around there.
I don't see how mounting the pump up high could help stop the fuel tank purging through the carburettor. Wouldn't it just syphon through the pump anyway?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I ended up mounting it on the rear bulkhead thing behind where the back seat goes. It makes one hell of a rattle as i haven't put any rubber or a good solid backing plate there yet, but the pump is firmly attached which is far better than it was.
now I have solved that issue and another couple of major-ish ones it seems as though it needs a new head. *sigh*
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
matberry wrote:Personally I think there a some here that are paronoid when it comes to fuel, filters and the like. If your engine is searing heat, it must be running way too hot. Fuel needs an ignition source to ignite and a hose to fail, not uncommon as there's plenty of poorly maintained vehicles out there. Quality hose and clamps and regular maintenance is what's required.
If everyone had nice new hose clamps and renewed their rubber hoses often etc...
there probably wouldn't be so many engine fires..
although there have been two local VWs burnt out due to leaking pipes
with fuel filters in the engine bay... [tugging on the pipes...]
Fellow in the US wires His fuel hoses on the carby and pump
like on aircraft... lol
He knows His pipes can't come out...
Many are now threading the fuel inlet in the carby..
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
My entire fuel system has threaded fittings, a tacho relay, and a fuseblock in the engine bay so there are no nasty unfused connections (except the coil but I'm not done yet). All fuel hoses are pretty new and all the little vapour hose bits are new.
I still need to get an inline cutoff solenoid which I may mount near the tank. It will also operate via the tach relay.
It may get hardlines if I can ever find a good deal on a double flare tool and a pipe bender.
Just another comment on the searing heat. So nobody has an exhaust that gets hot, and their barrels never see combustion temps?
Sure people say that if something comes loose those items are below flashpoint and will just boil off the fuel. Yes that is true. Into a nice explosive vapour which can be triggered by a spark. Say provided by the ignition system or maybe even the alternator or regulator or a relay. Can anyone tell me straight that if something in the engine bay springs a leak that none of the fuel will make it to the barrels, exhaust or even the heads?
Unless I am horribly mistaken, especially with the type4 motor, the engine goes all the way back to the bellhousing. It also has a nice bevel on top which causes any liquids to run off to one of the sides, through joins and mounting points of the tin, running straight down on to the barrels
I have seen this more times than I would like. usually when pulling hoses to replace them or pulling the carb. The fuel always runs down through everything.
I'm not trying to argue with anyone or invalidate anyones opinion. I'm just saying it as I see it with the best of intentions. I don't want anyone's VW to burn!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
