just remember if you use an A frame you're still wearing out tyres, shocks, bushes, etc etc as the car is still driving/rolling on the road...........and if you have an accident or a gearbox failure how do you get it home ?
When I was racing I used a single axle light weight trailer......it towed like a dream, and was easy to load with longer ramps..............it cost about $1700 in materials to make.
The A frame is an issue with a bent or broken car, the tyre wear etc would be negligible as there would be no power, steering or braking effort from the towed car, like how often do you need to replace tyres on a trailer.
I'm looking into building a lightweight single axle car trailer as well, light enough to tow the Beetle with our Skyline and for our Prado to tow the Skyline.
I've been researching trailer bits online and found these useful links.
There is trailer guy on eBay is called spinny_things, he's pretty competitive price wise
Hey Colin, ask your old man about towing his FJ Holden with an A frame - behind a clapped-out ex-cab FC.😎 They had to 'light up' the FJ to push the tow car up the big hills.🙄
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
I agree with the trailer, single axle, nice and light. It all adds up in weight that the tow car has to pull and stop.
Last trailer discussion on avd, a lot of people were saying they are unsafe if you have tyre issues etc (on the trailer) compared to a dual axle, I say, bollocks, I have been overtaking a vehicle towing a car trailer with my kombi also towing a car trailer, when the guy I was passing lost the wheel and axle (stub axle broke) while I was alongside. Apart from a shower of bitumen, no issues, no flipping trailers etc etc.
The effort required to flip a trailer with a car strapped to it is more than you imagine.
The difference in weight and maneuverability is heaps, unless you want to be able to have large vehicles on the trailer.
My 2c.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Having done a bit of trailer towing, I might suggest using 'light truck' tyres, and ALWAYS carry a spare wheel. I take a 'trailer kit' along too, with a jack, wheel spanner, bearing kit, plug adapters, D shackles, etc.
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
HappyDaze wrote:I might suggest using 'light truck' tyres, and ALWAYS carry a spare wheel. I take a 'trailer kit' along too, with a jack, wheel spanner, bearing kit, plug adapters, D shackles, etc.
Great advice and sounds like words of wisdom or someone that found out the hard way 😂
Once bitten, twice shy 👍
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
HappyDaze wrote:Hey Colin, ask your old man about towing his FJ Holden with an A frame - behind a clapped-out ex-cab FC.😎 They had to 'light up' the FJ to push the tow car up the big hills.🙄
Cheers, Greg
Dad has never shared that story with me.
I will ask him.
Solid mount axle is not so good for a race car, as it means that the car's suspension does ALL the work. If you don't back off your (expensive) shocks before towing, they won't last long.😢
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Mechanical Disc Brake Kit - Boat Caravan Car Trailer $381.00
includes 1 x Galvanised 2000kg mechanical over-ride coupling - suits a standard 50mm towball
2 x Galvanised 1/2" 5-stud disc hubs with standard bearings and marine seals - available in Ford, HT/Early Holden, HQ Holden, or Commodore stud patterns
8 mtrs x 4mm galvanised brake cable and 4x clamps
1 x Galvanised brake cable adjuster
2 x Threaded mounting plates for 39mm round, 45mm & 40mm square
2 x Galvanised mechanical calipers - suit 1/2" & 5/8" discs - with mounting screws and brake pads
1 x Galvanised standard A-frame handbrake to suit override coupling OR boat trailer hand brake
HappyDaze wrote:Solid mount axle is not so good for a race car, as it means that the car's suspension does ALL the work. If you don't back off your (expensive) shocks before towing, they won't last long.😢
X 2. I wouldn't contemplate a non sprung trailer. Other than what Greg has mentioned, it would not only kill your race car, but a lightweight trailer would fatigue very quickly and would not last long.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
We have both single and dual axle trailers for the toys and the single axle wins hands down everytime with a small vehicle such as a beetle. They both have electric brakes, with the single being lowered and the dual a tilting. The single tracks very well and was made to carry dubs with the axle towards the rear so it is very well balanced. I have had Kombis on it, FJs and the occassional fiat.
Oh and the Fiat is deceptively larger than a Beetle - which I was surprised at. The Beetle fits on the trailer with about a foot spare to the front and rear.
Mine is a trac-well which is made up the north coast.
If you have a look at the Formula Vee website they often have trailers for sale as good prices, just bear in mind the Beetle is a little heavier than a Vee - but I have seen some nice trailers on their website which were priced well.
Where I live the land is bit a bit uneven, when I've borrowed dual axle trailers if they are not on the car tow car they just bury the coupling in the ground.
Are you into Fiats as well as dubs. I have friend in the Fiat scene in Sydney, Neil Ruxton.
