gearbox oil

Peter Leonard · 2010-07-22T11:19:02+00:00

Hi all, long time no write (but plenty of lurking) About to do one of the most disgusting, stinky messy jobs of all time. And I don't work at KFC. Been to BITOG, castrol, google, AVD and there's not exactly a wealth of info around on changing/upgrading your gearbox oil. What do you guys use (those who've ever bothered to look at the boring workhorse in front of the engine)? About the only thing I'm reasonably certain of is that I'll be using GL-4 rated oil. I've heard good things about syntorque, but it's not something you see on the shelf at repco. I've got a bottle of Castrol syntrans 75w-85 which is GL-4 and expensive enough that it should double as a GPS and cook dinner for me. Thoughts? Experiences?🤖🤖🤖🤖

oval TOFU Bitte, ein Bit!

2,946 posts · joined Jul 2003 · 25 Jul 2010, 12:37 pm

#792584

So that's a few hands up for the Nulon GL70 additive? 🙂

I can't remember -- are you supposed to fill the tranny with the rear axles under load or jacked up?

...and Robert's ya father's brother...

57oval Officially Full-On Dubber

305 posts · joined Oct 2006 · 25 Jul 2010, 5:00 pm

#792606

I have always used Castrol VMX80 GL4 rated

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 25 Jul 2010, 6:34 pm

#792645

oval TOFU wrote:So that's a few hands up for the Nulon GL70 additive? 🙂

I can't remember -- are you supposed to fill the tranny with the rear axles under load or jacked up?

I have IRS and cv joints so I don't know... ??

I would presume with the axles down...???

never ever thought of that....

more oil the better... with oil filled axles..??

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

General_Failure Use your head, don't abuse it!

1,036 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 25 Jul 2010, 6:59 pm

#792649

68AutoBug wrote:
General_Failure wrote:Since the oil change there has been oil coming out at the shift rod on the cone. I choose to ignore that.

Hi
You can buy those seals and brass bushing as an assembly..
I bought Mine from the USA but I'm sure they would be available at a VW parts shop...

maybe You put too much oil in the gearbox..
and the bush/seal is worn....

but its better than too little oil ... lol

LEE

Nah. Couldn't be too much oil, unless I found a way to fill it past the filler plug.

What are the seals and bushes called? As it is it is missing nearly every seal from bumper to bumper. been slowly rectifying that.

If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

ryana89 Officially Full-On Dubber

315 posts · joined Sep 2009 · 25 Jul 2010, 9:11 pm

#792690

vwo60 wrote:Hi,
I have been running a redline synthitic in my gearbox for 3 years with a improvment in shifting and general quiteness

I'll be replacing my gearbox oil in my Golf soon to (yes I know, a very differant tranny setup compared to a Beetle)
Everything I've read says that Redline make some of the best gearbox oils out there. Sourcing the stuff locally can be hard though.

Yet I'll be a hypocrit by using a differant synthetic that we used in my dads Ute.🙄

I believe its called Marque 75W/90 API: GL5 MT-1 and it significantly improved the Bravo's cold shifting over the first 30km's the car was driven after the change. A fully synthetic oil too.

Be nice to know if anybody else has used this stuff, because if it lets me down, then Im going straight to Redline. I might also have to try the G 70 additive from Nulon, we sell it at Supercheap so I might just grab a tube next time Im on.

Keep this thread going, gearbox oils is a surprisingly interesting subject🤓

2.0slow 92 MK2

Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia

jjwebb123 Wolfsburg Wizard

617 posts · joined Aug 2009 · 25 Jul 2010, 9:29 pm

#792702

I cant remember what i used.
But its not that bad of a job.
I did it without even using a jack,in about 30mins.😀

"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 25 Jul 2010, 9:31 pm

#792704

Hi

part number for bush with seal

131 301 225B from CIP1

seal part number seems to be the same?
15mm x 24mm x 7mm wide...

LEE

check out; 131 301 225B CIP1

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Smiley Veteran Volks Folk

2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 · 26 Jul 2010, 12:07 pm

#792767

oval TOFU wrote:I can't remember -- are you supposed to fill the tranny with the rear axles under load or jacked up?

Fill it with the car sitting level on the ground, not jacked up.

The fill bung is higher than the axle tubes so the oil flows out into them.

Unless you have a slammed car with bulk camber you shouldn't have any dramas.

Smiley 😎

If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.

General_Failure Use your head, don't abuse it!

1,036 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 26 Jul 2010, 12:41 pm

#792775

jjwebb123 wrote:I cant remember what i used.
But its not that bad of a job.
I did it without even using a jack,in about 30mins.😀

Can't remember if it has been said, but remove the filler plug first, people!

It is an easy job. There have been many a person left up the creek by draining their tranny oil then discovering they can't get the filler to undo.

I bought a tool off ebay or oztion a while back for undoing those plugs. It's pretty much a bolt head welded on to a strong bent bit of bar. Does the job great. Filler and drain plugs are in fear of me and my mighty leverage!

Speaking of which, anyone know, or is the seller of them? They also made VW valve spring compressors and trolley jack mount engine cradles. Really wish I'd bought one of the spring tools when they were selling them.

If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

oval TOFU Bitte, ein Bit!

2,946 posts · joined Jul 2003 · 26 Jul 2010, 1:25 pm

#792788

Ah, so one needs to put the car on ramps in order to get to the filler plug. I can vaguely remember doing that 'correctly' many years ago. I now just jack up the rear, take off the left wheel and fill up the oil until the oil level hits the bottom of the filler hole. So when the axels are under load again (with my negative camber) there will be more oil in the actual gearbox. I hope that's not what is making the 'box leak a little from the over filling...

There's no way I'd be able to access the filler without jacking up the bug.. It doesn't have the approach angle clearance for car ramps either!

...and Robert's ya father's brother...

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 26 Jul 2010, 2:27 pm

#792804

YES....

that refill plug can be very difficult to undo....

but doesn't need to be done that tight....

its a a tapered thread...

I used a couple of nuts welded onto a bolt then cut the bolt off.

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

General_Failure Use your head, don't abuse it!

1,036 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 26 Jul 2010, 7:07 pm

#792837

I just went to the shed to see what type of oil it was. It is GL4 and has heaps of fancy sounding grading crap. But what stood out is it says universal gear oil. What's in a name? Well if it is not right at least it hasn't been driven far. Probably less than 50km. No matter what it has to better than what I believe to be 35+ year old battered hydrocarbon soup that used to be oil a long time ago.

If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

Matt Ryan Fahrvergnugen

890 posts · joined Jan 2006 · 26 Jul 2010, 9:30 pm

#792896

Can't remember if it has been said, but remove the filler plug first, people! It is an easy job. There have been many a person left up the creek by draining their tranny oil then discovering they can't get the filler to undo. I bought a tool off ebay or oztion a while back for undoing those plugs. It's pretty much a bolt head welded on to a strong bent bit of bar. Does the job great. Filler and drain plugs are in fear of me and my mighty leverage! Speaking of which, anyone know, or is the seller of them? They also made VW valve spring compressors and trolley jack mount engine cradles. Really wish I'd bought one of the spring tools when they were selling them.

Tristan,

He goes by the username yasdnil01. He gets on here, so shoot him a pm. He is also on ebay and oztion using the same name (Lindsay, spelt backwards)

Regards,

Matt.

http://portvwforum.freeforums.org

Matt Ryan Fahrvergnugen

890 posts · joined Jan 2006 · 26 Jul 2010, 9:44 pm

#792901

oval TOFU wrote:Ah, so one needs to put the car on ramps in order to get to the filler plug. I can vaguely remember doing that 'correctly' many years ago. I now just jack up the rear, take off the left wheel and fill up the oil until the oil level hits the bottom of the filler hole. So when the axels are under load again (with my negative camber) there will be more oil in the actual gearbox. I hope that's not what is making the 'box leak a little from the over filling...

There's no way I'd be able to access the filler without jacking up the bug.. It doesn't have the approach angle clearance for car ramps either!

Chris,

You could always jack it up then set it down on the ramps to get the axles loaded & give you room to get in. You would then need to move your jack around to the front and use the spirit level on the running board trick to get the whole car level.

Much easier to use a mechanics pit if you can dig one in your garage😂

Regards,

Matt.

http://portvwforum.freeforums.org

General_Failure Use your head, don't abuse it!

1,036 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 26 Jul 2010, 11:25 pm

#792910

Matt Ryan wrote:
Can't remember if it has been said, but remove the filler plug first, people! It is an easy job. There have been many a person left up the creek by draining their tranny oil then discovering they can't get the filler to undo. I bought a tool off ebay or oztion a while back for undoing those plugs. It's pretty much a bolt head welded on to a strong bent bit of bar. Does the job great. Filler and drain plugs are in fear of me and my mighty leverage! Speaking of which, anyone know, or is the seller of them? They also made VW valve spring compressors and trolley jack mount engine cradles. Really wish I'd bought one of the spring tools when they were selling them.

Tristan,

He goes by the username yasdnil01. He gets on here, so shoot him a pm. He is also on ebay and oztion using the same name (Lindsay, spelt backwards)

Regards,

Matt.

That sounds familiar. thank you very much Matt!

If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

Peter Leonard Moderator Volatile

1,456 posts · joined Apr 2003 · 27 Jul 2010, 11:30 pm

#793055

Well... first 600ks and all's good. Interestingly the shifter rattle has disappeared, even though it would normally be attributable to a worn shift rod bushing. Gear changes are snick snick easy (not that they weren't easy before). Side note: Castrol VMX 80 is interchangeable with the GL-4 Synthetic. Castrol Website recommends the VMX 80, but if you're looking to throw away thirty bucks a litre You have the option of upgrading. My Nulon/Castrol mix feels happier than wtf was in there previously (including the mass of gluggy metal stuck to the magnet on the plug).🥷

let sleeping dubs lie

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 27 Jul 2010, 11:47 pm

#793056

]

IThey also made VW valve spring compressors and trolley jack mount engine cradles. Really wish I'd bought one of the spring tools when they were selling them.

My Son has the spring compressors and trolley jack mount etc..

Make taking the engine out and moving it very easy...

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 27 Jul 2010, 11:50 pm

#793058

Peter Leonard wrote:Side note: Castrol VMX 80 is interchangeable with the GL-4 Synthetic.
Castrol Website recommends the VMX 80, but if you're looking to throw away thirty bucks a litre You have the option of upgrading. :

Now You tell Me.....

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Peter Leonard Moderator Volatile

1,456 posts · joined Apr 2003 · 28 Jul 2010, 9:02 pm

#793214

I think VMX 80 is just a dino version straight 80W oil. maybe. either way volksies would probably stand canola oil without baulking if they're not driven hard 😀 I'm just glad not to have to think about the crap flying around inside the gearbox for the next 500 years 😵‍💫

let sleeping dubs lie

oval TOFU Bitte, ein Bit!

2,946 posts · joined Jul 2003 · 28 Jul 2010, 10:42 pm

#793246

Matt Ryan wrote:
oval TOFU wrote:Ah, so one needs to put the car on ramps in order to get to the filler plug. I can vaguely remember doing that 'correctly' many years ago. I now just jack up the rear, take off the left wheel and fill up the oil until the oil level hits the bottom of the filler hole. So when the axels are under load again (with my negative camber) there will be more oil in the actual gearbox. I hope that's not what is making the 'box leak a little from the over filling...

There's no way I'd be able to access the filler without jacking up the bug.. It doesn't have the approach angle clearance for car ramps either!
Chris,

You could always jack it up then set it down on the ramps to get the axles loaded & give you room to get in. You would then need to move your jack around to the front and use the spirit level on the running board trick to get the whole car level.

Much easier to use a mechanics pit if you can dig one in your garage😂

Regards,

Matt.

Heya Matt!
Good suggestion - I COULD do that, if I cared enough! hehe. I just top it up with the axles unloaded - I figured that the gears are simply a little bit more submerged in oil than 'normal'. It's not like an engine where too-high oil level will increase oil pressure and bust seals... 🙂

...and Robert's ya father's brother...

Peter Leonard Moderator Volatile

1,456 posts · joined Apr 2003 · 2 Aug 2010, 10:20 pm

#793912

i overfilled mine by about 100 ml to allow for 'spot marking'.

bit extra can't hurt; worst thing is probably frothing, but with the new super ultra additives it will be a cold day in hell before my gearbox gives a toss. How does one overfill? drive the front up on ramps and jack the back up as high as a supacheap trolley jack will get you. it doesn't get as high as the front. 🙄

let sleeping dubs lie