Freeing up a frozen clutch

Scarab Wolfsburg Wizard

646 posts · joined Jul 2009 · 31 Jul 2010, 11:14 am

#793505

Hi guys and girls!

Just wondering if I can get some advice please......

I have a crusty old Toyota Liteace that has been sitting idle in my driveway for about 5 years. I need to sell it.

I have got it started (finally) and running really nice, but the clutch appears to be frozen. 😬 It is a cable clutch and operating the pedal moves the cable but the cutch wont engage/disengage.

Any of you guys have any experience or suggestions in getting it freed up ??? (without actually pulling the box please....really dont want to have to go to that extent)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!

Scarab (aka: Paul)

71-BEETLE-SEDAN AKA Josh

1,058 posts · joined Mar 2009 · 31 Jul 2010, 11:22 am

#793508

I got no idea about clutch etc but pity your not in nsw as i would love a van.

I gues your starting it in neutral, is the clutch properly adjusted?
I read somewhere that if your gunna let a car sit for long periods of time you should back all cables off etc so that they dont stretch over time being tight.

Might be worth checking if the cable is pulling enough to disengage and engage the clutch.

Cheers Hope it works out.

Smiley Veteran Volks Folk

2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 · 31 Jul 2010, 6:20 pm

#793530

I though you just towed/pushed/rolled down hill with the car in gear and try pumping the clutch pedal?

Make sure the ignition is off other wise you'll start the car if it's a runner.

You picked the wrong weekend to be asking questions Paul cause everyone is at Valla 😂😂😂😂

Smiley 😎

If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.

waveman1500 Also rides a Honda

1,346 posts · joined Dec 2009 · 31 Jul 2010, 6:44 pm

#793534

There's many ways of freeing a seized clutch. The easiest way (possibly dangerous) is to get a nice straight stretch of empty road. Start it in gear and then get up a little bit of speed. Hold the clutch pedal down to the floor and then stamp on the brakes suddenly to try and break the clutch free by shock loading.

The much safer way of doing this is to jack up the driven wheels and place them securely on stands, and chock the non-driven wheels. Then start the engine in gear, and run up some revs. Holding the clutch down, stamp on the brakes, as before. For both methods, as others have said, it helps to check that your cable is pulling the throw-out arm far enough.

1972 VW S-Bug - For Sale!
1968-onwards Beetle panels and glass for sale

donn Wolfsburg Elder

3,515 posts · joined Nov 2005 · 31 Jul 2010, 7:58 pm

#793542

You picked the wrong weekend to be asking questions Paul cause everyone is at Valla 😂😂😂😂

Smiley 😎 [/quote]
Not every one is at Valla, some didn't make it. 😬

I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!

johny rotten Officially Full-On Dubber

366 posts · joined Apr 2004 · 31 Jul 2010, 9:31 pm

#793556

Drive the car up a steep hill in a high gear at full throttle, then press the clutch in without lifting of the throttle

You should break it free

Smiley Veteran Volks Folk

2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 · 31 Jul 2010, 9:43 pm

#793560

donn wrote:You picked the wrong weekend to be asking questions Paul cause everyone is at Valla 😂😂😂😂

Smiley 😎

Not every one is at Valla, some didn't make it. 😬 [/quote]

Yeah I know man. I read about your oil loss. I hope not much damage was done?

Smiley 😎

If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.

Scarab Wolfsburg Wizard

646 posts · joined Jul 2009 · 31 Jul 2010, 10:46 pm

#793571

thanks guys,....will give it a try 👍

Scarab (aka: Paul)

Scarab Wolfsburg Wizard

646 posts · joined Jul 2009 · 31 Jul 2010, 10:48 pm

#793572

....so just to confirm, by applying the brakes, you are effectively trying to stall it out and by doing so, it should free the clutch....right??

Cheers!

Scarab (aka: Paul)

Smiley Veteran Volks Folk

2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 · 1 Aug 2010, 10:18 am

#793593

Scarab wrote:....so just to confirm, by applying the brakes, you are effectively trying to stall it out and by doing so, it should free the clutch....right??

Cheers!

Scarab (aka: Paul)

Yes, but only if you have your foot on the clutch pedal. Otherwise the engine will just stop.

The engine will want to keep turning and the wheels are going to want to stop when you apply the brakes. The clutch is the weak 'link' that has to be broken. I'd hold my foot on the clutch and stomp the brakes to try and shock load it loose.

Smiley 😎

If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.

1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 · 1 Aug 2010, 5:44 pm

#793656

Scarab wrote:Hi guys and girls!

Just wondering if I can get some advice please......

I have a crusty old Toyota Liteace that has been sitting idle in my driveway for about 5 years. I need to sell it.

I have got it started (finally) and running really nice, but the clutch appears to be frozen. 😬 It is a cable clutch and operating the pedal moves the cable but the clutch won't engage/disengage.

Any of you guys have any experience or suggestions in getting it freed up ??? (without actually pulling the box please....really don't want to have to go to that extent)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!

Scarab (aka: Paul)

Can't see in above posts as to any reason soooo:.

Not uncommon for the friction plate to "rust" to the flywheel face effectively gluing the plate to flywheel. Worse on cast iron flywheels as the iron tends to rust much quicker than the steel ones. Had a Commodore with the same problem after sitting for around 6 weeks in the winter many moons ago!! As above posts suggest, you have to break the glue somehow!

DH

Scarab Wolfsburg Wizard

646 posts · joined Jul 2009 · 1 Aug 2010, 6:04 pm

#793660

thanks lads....will give it a try sometime soon and let you know the results.....fingerscrossed!!

Scarab (aka: Paul)