Hi,
I happen to have a colleague in the US on business, who can bring me back a few goodies in his luggage.
Are Scat and Empi Trigger Shifters any good? Are they the same thing rebranded or is there a difference in quality?
Thanks,
Brett
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
the $$$ isnt bad at the moment
I would buy a Berg with the ball handle
Futue te ipsum!!!
Is the price difference between a Berg ball shifter and a Scat trigger worth it?
I'm not looking for a racing fast change.
The main reason for wanting an aftermarket shifter is the revised reverse lockout. Somebody in this household has twice found reverse when attempting to get second. This same person also finds it hard to remember to push the stick down to find reverse.
I have been instructed to "fix it". :P
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
Well, at the risk of being politically incorrect, the simplest fix is always the best...
"You can't drive the Beetle anymore."
😂
Seriously tho - I have an Empi one that cost me like $100 or something from Mick's a while back... Berg is definitely better quality and a nicer feel, but no issues with the POS Empi so far.
👍
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI -
http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
I have the CSP - but that is european
Personaly i dont like the T bar
The trigger is Left / Right hand drive neutral
The T bar and ball of Berg you need to get the lock out button in RHD version
The CSP has a 2 finger pull up
I like it better
The quality of CSP and Berg and miles ahead of the Scat and Empi
About as different as the cheap chrome bumpers and original chrome
If you are going to leave the car in the garage then the empi and scat will do
I drive mine every day
Futue te ipsum!!!
berg 40% less throw version for you
Good thing about berg is you can sell it in 10years time for pretty much what you paid for it and as pointed out get exactly what your needs require
If youre hitting reverse you prolly should be looking at shifter adjustment, front shift rod bush, rear gearbox/shift rod coupling or a combo of all three anyhow
Other than getting 4th instead of 2nd a couple of times myself, I'm quite happy with the stock shifter and I drive the car 99% of the time. I'm not really looking for shorter throw. Just the reverse lockout to help "her indoors" who is more used to Automatics. 😊
If everyone says EMPI units are a POS, what exactly goes wrong with them? Do they break in two, do they develop slop in six months, or do they just look cheap? ❓
If the Scat/Empi units will not break in say five years of daily use or cause extra problems, then I reckon I'll be happy enough with one of those at 10-15% of the price of a Berg unit.
But you are right Hellbugged, it could probably do with a shift coupling and bush too.
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
how much $ be the empis anyway?
hellbugged wrote:how much $ be the empis anyway?
About $55-60AU delivered to Chicago.
😎Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
okay your 10% was a fair way off then.......
hellbugged wrote:okay your 10% was a fair way off then.......
Yes, you are right. Cheapest Berg shifters are arond $250US and cheapest Empi around $40US (both without freight added). So it's more like 17%.
🙂
But unless I'm not looking in the right places, there doesn't seem to be anything available in between. Say $100US.
I don't really want to spend $250US on a Berg shifter. It's not justified for a stock Bug that gets driven every day and is often parked at a railway station.
🙅
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
bnicho wrote:But you are right Hellbugged, it could probably do with a shift coupling and bush too.
I recon thats your first port of call> Might do the trick. Mitchell
23 windows ...8 too many!
Funny, I had always thought that Hurst Shifters were the orig-ine-al and the best. And, that all of those mentioned above were latter day "Me Too" versions. I must be wrong?
But you cant buy a Hurst shifter
You can buy Berg, CSP, Scat and EMPI
Futue te ipsum!!!
empi on ebay for $85 delivered, was thinking about one myself, does "one size fit all" or do you need to specify year?
Hurry up and wait
Apparently bugpack make a nice shifter that is about 100 us dollars and is supposedly 99% as good as a berg. May be lhd only though. I'm a csp man, order direct from germany is cheapest. I also noticed vintagespeed from taiwan make a new shifter that looks almost like a stock unit, might be worth a look.
I heard the Vintage Speed ones where good - I have a Flat4 in the 58 that I picked up in the UK cheap when I was over there recently. Looks fantastic, changes fine with a shortish throw but it rattles annoyingly at certain rev's.
NullaDub wrote:but it rattles annoyingly at certain rev's.
My guess is that is the shift bushing gone
Futue te ipsum!!!
Hi,
I currently run a copy of the hurst (empi), its been in the car for five years with no issues, the only problem that i have had with this type of shifter is the rivets that hold the split pivot bushing in place loosen as they pull into the softer material, simply remove these and replace them with button head cap screws, this has not happened with the current shifter only the genuine hurst developed the problem, as far as i can see there is nothing wrong with a lot of the cheaper shifters for daily use, it all depends on what you are happy to use.
ive had both the empi and scat shifters in two similar cars. personally i prefer the scat as it has a nicer shift out of the two.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
I have owned alot of differant shifters but the BERG Signature Series I bought in 1991 is the best. After all these years and unknown amount of racing shifts it still is as good as it was the first time I installed it. I liked the scat trigger shifter as a second choice, half the price of Bergs, but not as robust. I had to take mine apart and replace the rivets with bolts, milled the bushings for a tighter fit, afterward it was tight and trouble free. The Berg never required anything but a drop of oil once in awhile. Mike
It's getting nigh-on impossible to find second gear on downshifts now, I usually end up in fourth.
I've ordered a new coupling, bush and a quickshift kit from Mick's. I've given up on the idea of a trigger shifter for now.
I found the thread on replacing the bush, so I'll probably tackle this next weekend.
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
bnicho wrote:It's getting nigh-on impossible to find second gear on downshifts now, I usually end up in fourth.
I've ordered a new coupling, bush and a quickshift kit from Mick's. I've given up on the idea of a trigger shifter for now.
I found the thread on replacing the bush, so I'll probably tackle this next weekend.
Cheers,
You may need to adjust the position of the plate if yu can't find second easily.
If you hear a rattle coming through your geat stick, that's a tell tale sign of a worn bush.
cam070 wrote:You may need to adjust the position of the plate if yu can't find second easily.
If you hear a rattle coming through your geat stick, that's a tell tale sign of a worn bush.
Which way do I need to move the plate?
It does rattle at anything above 75 kays now. If I rest my left knee against the stick it goes away.
🙅
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
bnicho wrote:Which way do I need to move the plate?
bottom of page 5
Futue te ipsum!!!
bnicho wrote:cam070 wrote:You may need to adjust the position of the plate if yu can't find second easily.
If you hear a rattle coming through your geat stick, that's a tell tale sign of a worn bush.
Which way do I need to move the plate?
It does rattle at anything above 75 kays now. If I rest my left knee against the stick it goes away.
🙅
Cheers,
Yep there's the problem, once the rattle starts the busk is cactus.
My 2c....Berg or stock, although CSP or Vintage Speed seem to be worth a look.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Bizarre wrote:bnicho wrote:Which way do I need to move the plate?
bottom of page 5
I must be looking at a different thread, as it's only two pages...
Thread
Anyway, it seems I have to nudge it to the right.
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 😎
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
Futue te ipsum!!!
the october 2010 hotVWs magazine ( out now, for those with a subscription ) has got a big comparison article on shifters.
