NON VW. Which is harder?

1,058 posts · joined Mar 2009 · 21 Aug 2010, 7:51 am

#797606

Hi all, i recently replaced a steering rack on a car. It now needs new CV's.

Which is harder. Is replacing a rack harder or easier then cvs.

The car is a daihatsu charade. So front engined and front wheel drive.

Thanks

bugzla Custom Title Time!

1,164 posts · joined Jun 2007 · 21 Aug 2010, 8:02 am

#797609

u can buy replacement shafts for the price of 2 cv's well there abouts from cbc bearings also look into getting a gearbox bung to stop the flow of gearbox oil coming out

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 21 Aug 2010, 9:06 am

#797622

It's got me stuffed why people spend $100+ on exchange shafts when you can get new joints for 1/3 the Price

I've used 5 now from the CVjointspecialist on ebay for $35 each and been happy with them

They usually knock off the shaft pretty easy but every now and again you'll get a stubborn fecker that just wont budge, BFH never fails though

bugzla Custom Title Time!

1,164 posts · joined Jun 2007 · 21 Aug 2010, 9:24 am

#797630

depends if people know wether there is a inner clip inside or not cvs are cheaper and are easy if u know the tricks per car and there joint i will only ever change a cv over a shaft with my bug cause of the simplicity of it

71-BEETLE-SEDAN AKA Josh

1,058 posts · joined Mar 2009 · 21 Aug 2010, 11:43 am

#797649

Okay, so do you guys reckon it would be easier or harder than replacing the steering rack, i mean the whole job though, removing etc

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 21 Aug 2010, 2:01 pm

#797674

71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:Hi all, i recently replaced a steering rack on a car. It now needs new CV's.

Which is harder. Is replacing a rack harder or easier then cvs.

The car is a daihatsu charade. So front engined and front wheel drive.

Thanks

I think You need to know what is holding the axles in the gearbox.. type of circlip??

I've greased early Magna ones , etc.. and replaced the seals in the gearbox... wasn't too difficult I don't think??

cheers

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 · 21 Aug 2010, 2:50 pm

#797683

Hey man,

Would involve just the same mucking around. Its a job that doesn't require a professional mechanic to do... But just a bit of patience.

If u have a workshop manual, you will be set. Google is ur friend. 👍
I second the advice in regards to keeping the old shafts and installing new cv joints on the shafts as a way of keeping things cheap. You will need to change the transaxle fluid as well.

Your pretty much removing both axle nuts and undoing whatever connects the hubs to the lower control arms (eg: ball joint etc) and the struts and silp them off the axles.

Then as everyone mentions, you have to 'dislocate' the cv joint from the transmission, and the methodology is dependant on the vehicles fastening setup. Most have a circlip that 'pops' off with a bit of leverage. What ever you do, don't try to pull the axle shafts out of the gearbox by yanking on the shaft as it will dislocate the cv joint from the shaft and will remain in the gearbox (sometimes). Unless you don't care about the shaft then don't stress.

you most likely will have one short shaft and one long shaft, there may also be some bolts to undo midway on the long shaft as there is often a shaft bearing and support that bolts onto the engine block to hold the longer axle.

Visual inspection is ur guide. 👍
Just need to confirm 1) how the cv's are held in there, you could find out by observing new ones (just pics off the net, heck post em here)
and 2) what gearbox oil you need to refill ur transaxle.

Youtube has an online tutorial on how to replace cv's on shafts... its good stuff! here:

(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!

Smiley Veteran Volks Folk

2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 · 21 Aug 2010, 4:27 pm

#797697

Also make sure that the face where the CV bolts up to and the face on the Cv are completely clean. I don't just mean wiped off. Clean with brake cleaner or degreaser and make sure they are completely dry afterwards. Otherwise your CV's can work themselves loose over time.

Smiley 😎

If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.

toplessbug Fahrvergnugen

879 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 23 Aug 2010, 10:02 pm

#798139

Smiley wrote:Also make sure that the face where the CV bolts up to and the face on the Cv are completely clean. I don't just mean wiped off. Clean with brake cleaner or degreaser and make sure they are completely dry afterwards. Otherwise your CV's can work themselves loose over time.

Smiley 😎

what are you talking about man its a daihatsu charade it is spline drive on the inner and outer
just unbolt the lower arm remove the stub assembly whip out the old in with the new replace stub assy job done --piece of piss

Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.

Smiley Veteran Volks Folk

2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 · 24 Aug 2010, 1:01 am

#798168

toplessbug wrote:
Smiley wrote:Also make sure that the face where the CV bolts up to and the face on the Cv are completely clean. I don't just mean wiped off. Clean with brake cleaner or degreaser and make sure they are completely dry afterwards. Otherwise your CV's can work themselves loose over time.

Smiley 😎
what are you talking about man its a daihatsu charade it is spline drive on the inner and outer
just unbolt the lower arm remove the stub assembly whip out the old in with the new replace stub assy job done --piece of piss

Oh....I see.

I've got VW's in mind. I only work on good cars 😂😂😂😂

Smiley 😎

If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.