QUOTE: From previous thread...
My susmension improvement plan - help please
Hi Guys,
I am in the process of planning my resto and build but want to head down the circuit car/ track day car route (Would like to drive these and home too if achievable). I have just purchased a straight and seemingly rust free 1969 BJ/ SA 1500 beetle (RHD AUS), and want to separate the pan and redo all the suspension and braking mods so I know the car will roll well, stop well and handle as best it can. It (at this stage will be left in full street trim (does anyone know the street weight of this model?)
Reading what I can I am finding a few conflicting ideas about what would be the best way for me to go... I am considering replacing the following parts and would like suggestion about quality or rubber V polyurethane components. Thanks
Steering Donut DONE
Steering Damper DONE
Ball Joints (German) DONE
Tie Rod Ends (German) DONE
Dropped Spindles 2 1/2” (yes or no) NO
Swayaway adjusters top and bottom (yes or no – as well as dropped sp???) advice here SWAY AWAY
Super Eccentric Camber adjuster (where to get this and what spec?) NOT YET
Castor shims (how many and what length bolt replacement?) 2 EACH SIDE
(Whats the recommendation for beam needle bearings V Polyurethane)NEEDLE
Beam Dust covers Polyurethane or rubber? STOCK
Anti roll bar (is 19mm enough or do I need bigger and adjustable version?) STILL LOOKING
Rear
New torsion beam outer bushings(4) rub V Poly? POLY
Shocks (what options front and rear (costs???)) Adjustable? NOT YET PROB GOING KONI
Any cheapish but necessary gearbox improvements while its out would be appreciated ?
Geabox solid mount rear (yes or no) YES
Mid mount support (advice here too please) YES BERG STYLE
Shift rod bushing YES
Shift rod coupling (poly?) NO BUT WILL TIGHTEN
Bearings??? (all round? Are they expensive/ worthwhile or just re grease old ones) YES ALL REPLACED
NOW... I am getting to settings of the suspension and there a differences in what works. Here are two different suggestions comments would be great...
__________________________
FRONT
Discs all round YES
2 Castor shims per side YES
Extra camber adjustor BENT TOP TRAILING ARMS
Anti RB for lowered car
Adjustable shocks set half way
Bridgestone RE720 185/50/15” Tyres NONE YET
Set toe at ride height to ½ deg toe in NOT SET YET
REAR
Discs all round YES
Z-bar adjusted to be “on” full time, not Camber compensator CONVERTED TO IRS
Adjustable shocks set half way
Bridgestone RE720 185/50/15 NONE YET
Set toe at ride height to ½ deg toe in NOT SET YET
__________________________
FRONT
Swayaway adjuster top and bottom YES
2 super eccentric camber adjusters YES
-2 degrees negative camber HOPING FOR UP TO -4*
3-5 degrees castor
5mm toe out (6/32 – 7/32”)
18mm (3/4”) Sway bar
195/60/14” tyres PROB GOING 195 OR 205 X 50X15
Front 1” higher than rear? WENT FOR 28MM REAR T BARS INSTEAD
Cofab/ KYB gas shocks
REAR
Sway away camber compensator IRS
Cofab/ KYB Gas shocks
-2 degrees Camber
2-3mm (3/32 – 1/8”) Toe in
205/60/14 tyres
Shimmed up Z bar
1’ lower than front
__________________________
Brakes????
Car I fit front callipers to the rear as well and have a proportioning valve to bring the bias into play. Nothing worse than having brakes lock up at the front while the car isn’t actually slowing down (recommendations here for handbrake or options otherwise braking great!) PROB LOOKING AT RE BONDING NEW PAD MATERIAL GREEN STUFF OR SIMILAR
So hopefully you can see where I am heading and I would love advice from numerous people in the know please. I also read somewhere about polyurethane boots on the front suspension??? NO
Also as I said above I want to separate the pan get it blasted and powder coated and then commit as many improvements as I can so I have a car that rolls and stops and handles well, anything I have missed would be great.
Thanks Aaron
SEE the rest of the thread here
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=83910&page=1#pid781818
