brake shoes

annosL Officially Full-On Dubber

378 posts · joined Dec 2008 · 9 Sep 2010, 6:31 pm

#801299

I have new brake shoes on my 1960 bug but have a leaking wheel cylinder which has gunked up the shoes, is there a way to clean these or not? just to save buying another set as these are new anyway. (have replaced the offending cylinder) The new cylinder from my local brake shop was $28.00, is that average price? seemed like good value to me

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 9 Sep 2010, 6:59 pm

#801308

pull them off the car and wash in clean petrol to remove all grease n gunk

Then wash in hot soapy water and dry in the sun for a hour or so Do the same with the barke drum while your there as it will be full of grud

Its a good idea to replace the opposite cyclinder as well when doing the job similar to hand brake cables always replace in pairs

Did you replace all the Flexiable rubber hoses on the car this would be a must especially on a 50 year old car they tend to deteriate from the insoide out and cause lots of braking problems

$28 is VERY cheap

I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 · 9 Sep 2010, 11:13 pm

#801370

If it was my car, I would replace the shoes.

If I was forced to clean them, then I would be using "Brake Kleen" which is a product designed for cleaning brake parts...not petrol. 👍

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 9 Sep 2010, 11:54 pm

#801379

annosL wrote:I have new brake shoes on my 1960 bug but have a leaking wheel cylinder which has gunked up the shoes, is there a way to clean these or not? just to save buying another set as these are new anyway. (have replaced the offending cylinder) The new cylinder from my local brake shop was $28.00, is that average price? seemed like good value to me

Hi
brake cylinders are usually very cheap.... I always replace both if one leaks... actually I never let them go that far....

there is a special product available from all the auto shops..
called BRAKE KLEEN ... made especially for just that...

always buy VW parts from VW parts shops...
they are MUCH cheaper than the normal shops...
$20 each at classic vee dub in Sydney..
they also have a repair kit for all the bits that wear out in the brake drums... $20
it pays to replace the pins and clips etc...

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

annosL Officially Full-On Dubber

378 posts · joined Dec 2008 · 10 Sep 2010, 12:35 pm

#801450

Thanks for the advice, I haven't replaced the rubber hoses vw54 so will check out them too. I am looking at doing both cylinders now and hoses which questions whether it's safe to clean the shoes or replace them, to be safe.
These jobs start small then seem to expand! Luckily the rear drums have been replaced by the previous owner and shoes etc when I checked them

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 10 Sep 2010, 1:57 pm

#801464

Yes small job always turn to bigger ones especially brakes

Its now use doing one side or item without doing the other there are 4 flex hoses 2 front n 2 rear

Also clean, check and re pack the front wheel bearings while your there and replace inner grease seals

Cleaning the shoes will work I have done for many years make sure the linings still have a good life left and dont overtighten the wheel nuts when replacing the wheels or you will distort the brake drums and you will hvae a uneven brake pedal from memory they do up to around 22 lbs torque

I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

HappyDaze Superannuated

2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 · 10 Sep 2010, 3:10 pm

#801471

Hey Dave, your memory's not the best. I do my wheel nuts up at 70 lb/ft. Better check ALL the wheels that you've done up lately!😁

I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!

donn Wolfsburg Elder

3,515 posts · joined Nov 2005 · 10 Sep 2010, 5:57 pm

#801506

according to my Scientific Publications workshop manual wheel bolt torque should be 13 kg/m or 94 lb/ft, looks like we should all drop everything and run out to check. 🙅

I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!

HappyDaze Superannuated

2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 · 10 Sep 2010, 6:47 pm

#801515

The car here is a 1960 Beetle, which has 12mm wheel bolts. There is no way I would tighten them to 94 lb/ft - Dave's 22 lb/ft would be safer.🤪

I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 11 Sep 2010, 8:04 am

#801579

the point is DONT over tighten other wise u will distort the brake drum

will re check my books LOL

I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409