Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·
What diff ratio and 4th gear ratio did the 76 bug come out with ?? That will give you a clue 👍
The 5 speed overheating allegation
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Volkswagen/Porsche Salzburg (Austria) built 'factory' VW Superbug rally cars in the 1970s. They used mildly overbored stock cylinders (85.9mm) and a stock crank to make 1599cc. Dry sump, twin 46IDA Webers, big intake valves and stock exhaust valves (!), porting and a secret cam produced 126 bhp at 6,000 rpm. They fitted a 5-speed Porsche 914 gearbox, turned backwards obviously.
It used a 4.429 diff with 80% limited slip. Their ratios, and speeds achieved in gear at 6,500 rpm with 165-15 tyres, were:
1st: 3.091 (58 km/h)
2nd: 2.189 (82 km/h)
3rd: 1.684 (107 km/h)
4th: 1.318 (137 km/h)
5th: 1.040 (174 km/h)
This setup worked very well so this would make a good starting point. Read more about the Salzburg rally Beetles here:
http://www.rallybugs.com/engtrans.htm
It used a 4.429 diff with 80% limited slip. Their ratios, and speeds achieved in gear at 6,500 rpm with 165-15 tyres, were:
1st: 3.091 (58 km/h)
2nd: 2.189 (82 km/h)
3rd: 1.684 (107 km/h)
4th: 1.318 (137 km/h)
5th: 1.040 (174 km/h)
This setup worked very well so this would make a good starting point. Read more about the Salzburg rally Beetles here:
http://www.rallybugs.com/engtrans.htm
dogo Seriously Crusin Dubber
128 posts · joined Oct 2005 ·
What about power pulleys? Don't they slow the fan down? wouldn't that make a difference to cooling! Just a thought.
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
The Salzburg Rally team did not use power pulleys on their full-on race cars. They used the stock steel VW pulley. They knew what they were doing - these engines made over 120 hp from just 1600cc.
See how they also used the stock VW muffler and heater boxes. They spent their money on parts that worked - check out that triple-gear dry sump oil pump! - not on chromie parts that do nothing.
Yes power pulleys slow down the fan (and the generator). Not what you want to do.
See how they also used the stock VW muffler and heater boxes. They spent their money on parts that worked - check out that triple-gear dry sump oil pump! - not on chromie parts that do nothing.
Yes power pulleys slow down the fan (and the generator). Not what you want to do.
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Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Power pulleys dont belong on street engines, theyre fine on the strip where the engine revs beyond what the stock fan was designed for but a street engine will run hotter and the power they actually free up isnt even noticable
A mates 70 bug had one and finding the right size belt was a mission
A mates 70 bug had one and finding the right size belt was a mission
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Quite right Joel. To do it properly, you would carefully braze or weld the fan tabs so it can't come apart, then use the stock steel pulley and rev it as much as you want. Gene Berg used to sell stock welded fans. And you can use stock VW belts.
Power pulleys belong in the box with the billet distributor clamps, transparent distributor caps, chrome generator pulleys, brightly coloured coils, plastic heater hoses and all the other pretty bits that don't work as well as the stock VW parts.
Power pulleys belong in the box with the billet distributor clamps, transparent distributor caps, chrome generator pulleys, brightly coloured coils, plastic heater hoses and all the other pretty bits that don't work as well as the stock VW parts.
hellbugged 48's and straight cuts
5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
good example keith, thanxKeith Haeusler wrote:Hi all,
This is my real life experience with taller top gear in a bug. In the early 90`s good mate had 68 bug, 2165cc,8.6:1 ida etc. Ran awesome. Never over heated oil or heads.
Changed to irs, stock L box, still good albeit lost a little bit of zippy-ness. Broke box, fitted .82 top with 3.88. Engine always ran hot in 4th gear and felt lazy.
Swap back to .93 top and problem went away.
I think the VW engineers knew what the score was.
Again, this is just what we found with this combo.
Regards, Keith
so have we actually sorted anything about final gearing with aircooled engines from this mess?
i think Matt summed it up in his first post and Keiths post shows good back to back tests for his combo
i have plenty of thoughts as to why i've got away with my gearing,as per a couple of mentions from the Daves and Joel........ just trying to sort some time to write it up yet
did this one when Ct was choosing cams to show where this engine comes on song.......you can see it's well "in" @3000rpm and actually makes a shit load of tourque at 2750rpm which works well with the "5th" i have......another 100rpm less at 100km/h would see wide open throttle on anything steeper than a disabled wheelchair ramp.........now that would cause some heat (BTU's) in the heads all that fuel burning on climbs with no extra fan speed ❗
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYe5uZwxLgk
i hate this vid, sloppy changes blah blah, but easy to tell the car is not going to pull the 5th gear anywhere near as easy as the "4th"...........perhaps having the ability to go back to this 4th gear is my saving grace from long pounding climbs with W.O.T in what would normally be an "over geared" final drive ratio. i've pretty much only used the tall 5th for cruising as the gears before it provide ample fun and speed for a buzz........yes it does run a tad cooler, HOWEVER on long climbs i would have to say it raises in temps quicker than it did with the old gearbox.......hmmmmmmmmmm........time to shift down a gear, lucky there are 2 that will do cruising speed 😘
can't wait to get it on the road again, will refresh my memory and do some more vids.......hopefully run it at Wakefield to really test the theories 😎
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
dangerous wrote:Daimo found his ran cooler and got better economy.
And that was with a 0.82 fifth and 3.88.(way taller than the stock L-Bug 0.93)
I agree though that if you went too far, there may be issues.
I thought Daimos was going to be too tall, but he said it is great.
Mind you it has twice the stock power too.
How true are these comments.Joel wrote:After going for a spin in Daimos old bug last year, I gotta say that tranny is geared to perfection but Like Dave said his engine has the torque to use it
expecting a stockish motor to run with the same setup would be kicking sqaure in the balls
After seeing Daimo's gearing you would think it's a little tall, but the engine has such good power delivery down low, it certainly gets away with it. A 1600 at 2800 rpm at 65mph would start to struggle because it's making less power at the lower rpm so more throttle is used and temps start to rise, and remember fan speed is less too.
Good thread
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
hellbugged 48's and straight cuts
5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
that's it Matt i truely believe my box would kill engines with anything less than my current one
......i'm a big believer in driving an engine to find it's personal REAL performance........maybe something for triebler to keep in mind for these subie boxes of his
yep good thread, hope it continues
......i'm a big believer in driving an engine to find it's personal REAL performance........maybe something for triebler to keep in mind for these subie boxes of his
yep good thread, hope it continues
Craig S Wolfsburg Wizard
635 posts · joined May 2008 ·
After getting a little off track I'm pleased that this thread is turning interesting again 😎
Would it be possible for someone to draw up a graph similar to Daimo's but using stock gear ratios (and tyre sizes) from an L Bug? At the moment I have no idea what rpm I'm doing at 110km/h, but I know it's damn noisy compared to 90km/h 😂
I remember there was an article last year(?) in the Club VeeDub magazine that gave the formuals for working out such things using tyre size, gear ratios and rpm.
Can anyone reproduce that?
It would also be possible if you swapped the x and y axis to overlay the above graph on a dyno graph, so that you can see where your engine power and torque is in relation to your gear ratios. Would that be of any use???
Thanks
Craig
Would it be possible for someone to draw up a graph similar to Daimo's but using stock gear ratios (and tyre sizes) from an L Bug? At the moment I have no idea what rpm I'm doing at 110km/h, but I know it's damn noisy compared to 90km/h 😂
I remember there was an article last year(?) in the Club VeeDub magazine that gave the formuals for working out such things using tyre size, gear ratios and rpm.
Can anyone reproduce that?
It would also be possible if you swapped the x and y axis to overlay the above graph on a dyno graph, so that you can see where your engine power and torque is in relation to your gear ratios. Would that be of any use???
Thanks
Craig
1969 Beetle - June
1974 L Bug - Gwendolyn
2002 Bora V6 4Motion - Anita
1974 L Bug - Gwendolyn
2002 Bora V6 4Motion - Anita
hellbugged 48's and straight cuts
5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
now youre talking!Gwendolyns Master wrote:It would also be possible if you swapped the x and y axis to overlay the above graph on a dyno graph, so that you can see where your engine power and torque is in relation to your gear ratios. Would that be of any use???
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
http://www.et-studios.com/motorsports/gears/gears.html
transfer to graph paper after working the gearing calculator
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Hmmmm didnt i just use this photo in another thread on totally unrelated subject only a few mins ago 😂Gwendolyns Master wrote:Would it be possible for someone to draw up a graph similar to Daimo's but using stock gear ratios (and tyre sizes) from an L Bug? At the moment I have no idea what rpm I'm doing at 110km/h, but I know it's damn noisy compared to 90km/h 😂
Thing to remember is stock engines were designed to run flat bickey
Even 36 years later if your tinwares all in check and timing and carb are tuned right it will crank along at 4000rpm all day long,
trust me my poor little 1600 did it across the middle of Aus 10 years ago in 35c heat
My stock Lbug tranny at 110 is spinning 3200rpm
at 4000rpm its doing arouind 140 from memory which last time i checked wasnt the speed limit 😂
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vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
Gene does still sell welded and balanced fans.Phil74Camper wrote:Quite right Joel. To do it properly, you would carefully braze or weld the fan tabs so it can't come apart, then use the stock steel pulley and rev it as much as you want. Gene Berg used to sell stock welded fans. And you can use stock VW belts.
Power pulleys belong in the box with the billet distributor clamps, transparent distributor caps, chrome generator pulleys, brightly coloured coils, plastic heater hoses and all the other pretty bits that don't work as well as the stock VW parts.
Power pulley do have their place. Idea behind them is to lower the ratio so that the fan doesn't over spin on high rpm engines and stall at something like 9000 rpm with the standard v-belt.
http://www.geneberg.com/product_info.php?cPath=19_494_2979&products_id=1254
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Don't place 100% faith in a welded fan, they still espload too,
just far less chance of it
just far less chance of it
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
This is so true, straight from the owners manual...'maximum and cruising speed 75mph'...Joel wrote:Thing to remember is stock engines were designed to run flat bickey
Even 36 years later if your tinwares all in check and timing and carb are tuned right it will crank along at 4000rpm all day long,
I went even smaller than a power pulley on my 9000 rpm engine, definately not for the street.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
I'm glad you remembered that article - I wrote it! It was in the August '09 issue of Zeitschrift. You can download it as a PDF here:Gwendolyns Master wrote:I remember there was an article last year(?) in the Club VeeDub magazine that gave the formuals for working out such things using tyre size, gear ratios and rpm. Can anyone reproduce that?
Craig
http://vwwatercooled.com/mag/mag/history.html
The speed to gear/diff formula is:
km/h = (rpm * circ * 0.06) / (gear * final)
where rpm is any engine rpm you like; circ is the rear tyre circumference; gear is the gear ratio, and final is the diff ratio.
For an L-Bug for example, with stock 165/70x15 tyres (1.923m circumference), and a 0.93 fourth and 3.875 diff, it would be doing 32.01 km/h per 1000 rpm in fourth, and 3436 rpm at 110 km/h.
Obviously you could use a spreadsheet to try heaps of different combinations, but no doubt there are websites around that do the same thing.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Whenever these topics come up I always like to do some ratio combinations
for both the ultimate five and 4 speed Volksy type 1 trans.
You always must factor in your own tyre height.
A difference of one inch in diameter can make a HUGE difference on the highway.
If you have a little more torque than stock,
(as most people will, that go to the trouble of fitting a five speed into an air cooled),
I like this combination:
3.875 diff:
0.889 fifth
1.2174 fourth
1.6667 third
2.3571 second
3.7778 first
It can cruise at around 80km/h quietly at 3000 in 4th,
and not so tall as Daimos in 5th,
so the rev drop as you shift into 5th is better than stock.
If you want to stay with a 4-speed and have greater than stock torque,(say, with plus 2lt capacity and mild cam),
you can close up the ratios from the bottom:
3.875 diff
0.889 fourth
1.2174 third(early kombi)
1.857 second (aftermarket)
3.333 first.
This gives better than stock gaps between the gears,
and less cruising rpm.
If you prefer to use the stock 4th gear you can use the formulae, or Matt's spred sheet (below),
to make equivalent combinations with a little more rpm.
for both the ultimate five and 4 speed Volksy type 1 trans.
You always must factor in your own tyre height.
A difference of one inch in diameter can make a HUGE difference on the highway.
If you have a little more torque than stock,
(as most people will, that go to the trouble of fitting a five speed into an air cooled),
I like this combination:
3.875 diff:
0.889 fifth
1.2174 fourth
1.6667 third
2.3571 second
3.7778 first
It can cruise at around 80km/h quietly at 3000 in 4th,
and not so tall as Daimos in 5th,
so the rev drop as you shift into 5th is better than stock.
If you want to stay with a 4-speed and have greater than stock torque,(say, with plus 2lt capacity and mild cam),
you can close up the ratios from the bottom:
3.875 diff
0.889 fourth
1.2174 third(early kombi)
1.857 second (aftermarket)
3.333 first.
This gives better than stock gaps between the gears,
and less cruising rpm.
If you prefer to use the stock 4th gear you can use the formulae, or Matt's spred sheet (below),
to make equivalent combinations with a little more rpm.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
Not sure if this xl spreadsheet will work, but I'll try and post it, it's what I use (because I have it) and it does tyre size and gearbox ratios.
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Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
lol what was the fan rpm on that? 14000rpm 😂Joel wrote:Don't place 100% faith in a welded fan, they still espload too,
just far less chance of it
Beware of so claimed "balanced fans" You can tell buy looking for welded in random pieces of metal through out the fan. they are counter weights. if no such modification are visible, Watch out these! They will wobble from harmonic vibration well before it hits it's potential rpm and may blow apart.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Nope, just one of the downsides of running a serp belt on a performance engine
Vbelts slip for a reason
Vbelts slip for a reason
General_Failure Use your head, don't abuse it!
1,036 posts · joined Jun 2004 ·
Why are people having a hard time understanding low revs + more throttle is harder on a motor than higher revs and less throttle?
More throttle = bigger fire. lower revs it is sticking around longer heating everything up.
Less throttle = smaller fire. At higher revs heaps of little flames not sticking around as long are cooler.
Try an experiment. You need a cig lighter and a fire lighter.
Light the lighter. now wave your hand across it quickly. Easy right?
Now light the fire lighter. That flame's bigger and hotter, isn't it. Now try moving your hand over it slowly at the same height you did with the lighter.
Did you do it? I hope the nice nurse at A&E didn't laugh at you too much.
If you have your foot planted and aren't going any faster you are either in the wrong gear or breaking the speed limit 😉
More throttle = bigger fire. lower revs it is sticking around longer heating everything up.
Less throttle = smaller fire. At higher revs heaps of little flames not sticking around as long are cooler.
Try an experiment. You need a cig lighter and a fire lighter.
Light the lighter. now wave your hand across it quickly. Easy right?
Now light the fire lighter. That flame's bigger and hotter, isn't it. Now try moving your hand over it slowly at the same height you did with the lighter.
Did you do it? I hope the nice nurse at A&E didn't laugh at you too much.
If you have your foot planted and aren't going any faster you are either in the wrong gear or breaking the speed limit 😉
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
I see your point GF, but can't fully agree. Yes Wide Open Throttle makes more heat, but any engine should be able to take it.General_Failure wrote:Why are people having a hard time understanding low revs + more throttle is harder on a motor than higher revs and less throttle?
More throttle = bigger fire. lower revs it is sticking around longer heating everything up.
Less throttle = smaller fire. At higher revs heaps of little flames not sticking around as long are cooler.
Try an experiment. You need a cig lighter and a fire lighter.
Light the lighter. now wave your hand across it quickly. Easy right?
Now light the fire lighter. That flame's bigger and hotter, isn't it. Now try moving your hand over it slowly at the same height you did with the lighter.
Did you do it? I hope the nice nurse at A&E didn't laugh at you too much.
If you have your foot planted and aren't going any faster you are either in the wrong gear or breaking the speed limit 😉
VW states maximum and cruising speed, I know my transporter wbxr can drive sustained WOT for as long as necessary....and that has been known to be a long time 🙂, if the engines design couldn't withstand this, Volksies would have died long ago.
Gearing and cooling and engine performance and vehicle frontal area etc etc etc....all have a part to play.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Hi Tristan, your analogy is interesting but doesn't work in the real world.
The point of using a higher top gear (or a fifth gear) is to make the motor turn slower AT A GIVEN SPEED. In practical terms this can be the highway or mtorway speed limit - say 100 km/h.
Let's say your stock VW has to turn at 3500 rpm to maintain 100 km/h. It's designed to do that all day. Now you change the gearing so that it turns at (say) 3000 rpm at the same speed. To maintain 3000 rpm you are using LESS throttle, not more. The engine runs cooler and you use less fuel. You know that, in practice, you don't drive at full throttle at highway speeds. You accelerate to 100 km/h then you back off the throttle until you have just enough throttle to maintain 100 km/h. You only need more or even full throttle for climbing grades, whereas you might back off entirely doing downhill.
Now think of the reverse. Let's say you change the gearing to make it run at 4000 rpm at 100 km/h. You need more throttle to make it do that, so you burn more fuel and the engine runs hotter.
On average a taller gear makes the car run cooler and more economically - but only up to a point. You don't want to lug the engine, so you don't 'overgear' it - make top gear TOO tall. A VW 1600 develops its maximum torque at around 2,500 rpm, which in top gear is around 80 km/h. If you make it taller you move that maximum torque speed upwards, but at speeds below that you are potentially lugging the engine. That's a stock engine. This becomes a bigger problem with a performance engine, which has its maximum torque at higher rpms. So you have the potential there - a hi-po hi-rev engine and tall gearing - to lug the engine at highway speeds!
The point of using a higher top gear (or a fifth gear) is to make the motor turn slower AT A GIVEN SPEED. In practical terms this can be the highway or mtorway speed limit - say 100 km/h.
Let's say your stock VW has to turn at 3500 rpm to maintain 100 km/h. It's designed to do that all day. Now you change the gearing so that it turns at (say) 3000 rpm at the same speed. To maintain 3000 rpm you are using LESS throttle, not more. The engine runs cooler and you use less fuel. You know that, in practice, you don't drive at full throttle at highway speeds. You accelerate to 100 km/h then you back off the throttle until you have just enough throttle to maintain 100 km/h. You only need more or even full throttle for climbing grades, whereas you might back off entirely doing downhill.
Now think of the reverse. Let's say you change the gearing to make it run at 4000 rpm at 100 km/h. You need more throttle to make it do that, so you burn more fuel and the engine runs hotter.
On average a taller gear makes the car run cooler and more economically - but only up to a point. You don't want to lug the engine, so you don't 'overgear' it - make top gear TOO tall. A VW 1600 develops its maximum torque at around 2,500 rpm, which in top gear is around 80 km/h. If you make it taller you move that maximum torque speed upwards, but at speeds below that you are potentially lugging the engine. That's a stock engine. This becomes a bigger problem with a performance engine, which has its maximum torque at higher rpms. So you have the potential there - a hi-po hi-rev engine and tall gearing - to lug the engine at highway speeds!
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
Phil has a good point. I had an 091 4:56RnP fitted with a 0.77 4th for the EJ25 in my buggy. On the freeway it's great with the 31"s. Round town, it's awful. Can't make up my mind if I want 3rd or 4th all the time coz it lugs so bad. Put standard road tyres on and the car is transformed. The subaru is a torquey motor, but it's not designed to be driven at 1500rpm all day. It feels like a good aircooled. Smaller tyres and some revs and WOW what a difference, you can actually get the motor into it's preferred torque curve and power range. You can tell the diff in temp too. It runs hotter if it lugs at low revs all the time.
The big diff between this motor and ACVWs is, the cooling is not directly related to engine speed. ACVWs totally are. So to venture out of the most efficient fan range is for a given load is a serious concern.
Now if you really want to find all this totally irrelevant, from what I have heard, subaru motors in subaru cars (with a 5 speed) are set up to do round 3500rpm at 110kmh. Isn't that interesting. Pretty much the same as an ACVW... So what were we arguing about? 🙄
The big diff between this motor and ACVWs is, the cooling is not directly related to engine speed. ACVWs totally are. So to venture out of the most efficient fan range is for a given load is a serious concern.
Now if you really want to find all this totally irrelevant, from what I have heard, subaru motors in subaru cars (with a 5 speed) are set up to do round 3500rpm at 110kmh. Isn't that interesting. Pretty much the same as an ACVW... So what were we arguing about? 🙄
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
Smiley Veteran Volks Folk
2,125 posts · joined Oct 2008 ·
Joel wrote:Thing to remember is stock engines were designed to run flat bickey
Even 36 years later if your tinwares all in check and timing and carb are tuned right it will crank along at 4000rpm all day long,
I tried this on my way home from work this morning.mattberry wrote:This is so true, straight from the owners manual...'maximum and cruising speed 75mph'...
She could only manage 65MPH flat out 🤪
That's about 112km/h in my car 🙅
Might be time for a tune up.
That's not to say that it didn't run well like that. Sang along like a bird, if anything it got a little cooler, and didn't sound like pistons were jumping out through the block.
Smiley 😎
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
hellbugged 48's and straight cuts
5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
my na 02 subaru is very similar in rpm to my beetle pete
Except 4th as i wanted a close ratio box but with cruiser top....
Except 4th as i wanted a close ratio box but with cruiser top....
vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·
Spot on! the term is call "laboring the engine"General_Failure wrote:Why are people having a hard time understanding low revs + more throttle is harder on a motor than higher revs and less throttle?
More throttle = bigger fire. lower revs it is sticking around longer heating everything up.
Less throttle = smaller fire. At higher revs heaps of little flames not sticking around as long are cooler.
Try an experiment. You need a cig lighter and a fire lighter.
Light the lighter. now wave your hand across it quickly. Easy right?
Now light the fire lighter. That flame's bigger and hotter, isn't it. Now try moving your hand over it slowly at the same height you did with the lighter.
Did you do it? I hope the nice nurse at A&E didn't laugh at you too much.
If you have your foot planted and aren't going any faster you are either in the wrong gear or breaking the speed limit 😉
My crumpledore gets worse economy if rpm is less than 2000rpm. 5th gear is useless on this car unless you are over 95km/s on flat or down hill only. I can tell you laboring the engine is by far one of the worst things you can do besides running with no oil.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
sander288 "Bolt-on Master"
1,404 posts · joined Aug 2008 ·
Just a note on max speed is cruising speed, my 1300 on the gold coast freeway a few years back ran at full throttle for about 1 hour and it did not overheat or shirk at that speed.
The car also happily runs at 120kph on the F3 when it has to all day. At the end of last year in about November or so it was 40 + degrees in the hunter and high 30's in Sydney, I had to drive down from armidale in the bug. Flat out on the F3 in top gear it ran fine, but there was hyundais (who said get a good 5 speed...😂) and all other soughts of cars breaking down all over the shop with steam out of the bonnet! 🙅
😏
The car also happily runs at 120kph on the F3 when it has to all day. At the end of last year in about November or so it was 40 + degrees in the hunter and high 30's in Sydney, I had to drive down from armidale in the bug. Flat out on the F3 in top gear it ran fine, but there was hyundais (who said get a good 5 speed...😂) and all other soughts of cars breaking down all over the shop with steam out of the bonnet! 🙅
😏
Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang
9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·
Bare in mind you car deviates quite dramatically to stock.Smiley wrote:Joel wrote:Thing to remember is stock engines were designed to run flat bickey
Even 36 years later if your tinwares all in check and timing and carb are tuned right it will crank along at 4000rpm all day long,I tried this on my way home from work this morning.mattberry wrote:This is so true, straight from the owners manual...'maximum and cruising speed 75mph'...
She could only manage 65MPH flat out 🤪
That's about 112km/h in my car 🙅
Might be time for a tune up.
That's not to say that it didn't run well like that. Sang along like a bird, if anything it got a little cooler, and didn't sound like pistons were jumping out through the block.
Smiley 😎
Big wide back tyres like yours place alot more load on the driveline not to mention the fact theyre taller than stock as well which is throwing off the gearing
Yes your car has less wieght with fibreglass kit and no rear bodywork but has extra weight in bigger tyre/wheels, front and rear bar work etc.
I imgaine aerodynamics would be affected somewhat on a baja too
A 5th gear in a vw is fine if you travel big KMs on dead flat motorway, but it would only take the slightest incline before the engine would start cracking a sweat
Like Daimo and others have said most modern 4 cylinder cars are doing 2800-3000rpm at 100km/h in 5th anyway
Its the big lazy 6s that can do less
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
I have a foreign car from Nth Darwin in our garage most of the time, the first SUV and it has a 2.0 efi waterpumper that has a 6000 rpm red line and is geared to nearly 3500rpm @ 100km/h. And it's a 5 speed too😂. I get into my wbxr after driving it and the diference in torque ... wow....the boxer admittingly is a 2.1 but pushing a much bigger bus, absolutely kills the rficer for torque.
Oh Ohh....more worms 😂
Oh Ohh....more worms 😂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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