Hi there everyone, just been helping a friend get there type 3 fasty back up and running after torque converter bolts were ripped out and oil pump in tranny crapping itself, popped in a new gear box so all is running okay.
The problem i have that im trying to figure out is there is a knocking noise in the engine when at low rev's. Once i start driving it the noise stops.
Initially i thought it sounds like torque converter bolts hitting the block but there are no marks on any of the bolts. Could this be a bent or sticky valve....?
Really quite stuck with this prob and cant really locate the noise with a screwdriver/stethascope but it sounds like its coming from the gearbox end of the motor...
if anyone has any ideas of what could be knocking at low revs then going away once im driving it would be great..
thanks in advance
scotty
check head studs on No. 3 cylinder. Could be lose? Then check all others if thats not the prob.
I will try to think of other probs it could be as they come to mind.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Great will do. thanks for the advice..
its been driving me mental....
if im checking the head studs do i need to tighten with a torque wrench? if so what tension should they be at?
Also i havnt removed the valve gear on one of these before to get to the stud bolts so any tips on that process would be great too.
thanks again
odd one that....
all the things that happened with My semi auto beetle...
torque converter bolts... etc
the noise got louder and faster at high revs..???
seems odd that a bolt etc touching the bell housing etc would disappear when the engine revved...??
so, something is moving...??
best of luck
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
head studs are 25 ft/lb but if they are not obviously lose then thats not likely the problem.
Test the stud tightness by running your torque wrench at say 15 ft/lb then seeing if the stud nut turns before the wrench clicks.
This will let you know whether its less than 15 and if it clicks without turning at all then its safe.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
head studs bolts were okay. took it for a little test the knocking got loud again and then the bolts into the torque converter went.........!
so yep something was moving for sure.
think it might be best to start looking for a 2nd hand motor. if anyone has any ideas or know where i can reasonably cheaply pick one up around Melb that would be a great help......
so much for finishing the last couple things for the rwc tomorrow, just feels like this car really likes having its motor taken out..
check the oil pump grab a gauge and see what pressure you have at idel
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
hi,
i had the same issue on a 1835 years ago, my noise turned out to be a worn thrust bearing on the cam shaft.
it only apeared at idle and as soon as you reved it the noise disapeared
again thanks for all your help everyone.
I have been thinking today and thought maybe if there was too much end float ( it wasnt measured when the last flex plate was put on ) could that cause the bolts to make slight contact with the back of the motor then when under load or reving it is being pushed away?
and as for the worn thrust bearing could that cause the bolts to hit cause obviously the hit yesterday and went snappo!
going to drop the motor out tonight and look for new mark's. I probably was thinking wrong when i said the bolts had no marks on them im guessing because they are high tensile so hitting aluminium it wouldnt really mark them ??
It could be the cam shaft thrust bearing worn not the crankshaft end float, the cam shaft moves back and foward at idle making a knocking noise that disapears when you rev it.
yeah that would make sense as the gear is heli cut and poses a side load as it turns.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
great. so could this cause the bolts to get pulled through the flex plate?
and where can i find a new thrust bearing? Cost?
obviously ill breaking the motor down but just need to do the bear min to get her back on the road as the friends who's car it is are low on cashola.
so any tips would be great. can i get away with changing just the thrust bearing and maybe a few new engine seals?
no
the cam thrust bearings are going to have absolutely nothing to do with your flex plate issues.
that's if there is anything wrong with them anyhow 🙅
You cannot discount that the cam shaft thrust bearings are not the cause of the issue but in highly unlikly you have a bolt hitting on the crankcase as that would always be there and would change with engine speed
Hi Scott, a common problem with type 3 is the large fan pulley coming loose. It can be knocking at idle (just tapping against the fan housing), and spins true as speed is increased. [The noise can seem to come from 'everywhere'.]
You can check by grabbing the pulley (with engine off !) through the top of fan housing and pushing it forwards & back. If it rocks at all, the centre bolt can be tightened by removing the rubber air bellows and the centre plastic plug (if fitted). You need a longish extension on a socket wrench, with an extension bar on the handle, and to to hold the fan pulley from turning as well as you can. This should tighten it sufficiently for quite a while, can be tightened up better when engine is next removed. Keeping the generator belt slightly loose may help.
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thanks brutus, this was an initial problem with this engine, the old fan pulley was worn badly and would come loose all the time, i had put in a god second hand one and it seemed to cure the prob, ill check if the fan had come loose once i put on teh new flex plate.
will let you all know soon
cheers
Scott
hi again,
got the motor out tonight and took off the old flex plate,
for one the main nut in the middle of the flex plate was not that tight anymore.....!
also after removing the plate i noticed the 4 locating pins for the flex plate on the end of the crank are all able to be moved? Should they be really solid or are they supposed to be moving? ( i think not) they dont move much but i can wiggle them all...
so does this mean the end of the crank is stuffed?
stuck here at a loose end ( no pun intended ) and still hoping to get out of it with this motor with out a rebuild so any help here would be great..
cheers
Scotty
so can anyone tell me if im stuffed with these little locaters wiggling about?
also trying to track down a flex plate in melb if anyone has one ort know where i sshould try that would be great.
if by chance the end of the crank is stuffed what is the cost of a decent 2nd hand motor ( 1600 for a type 3 )
yep the end of the crank is stuffed good.
Option are 2nd or new crank or a whole other motor.
You probably can get it repaired but it will most likely cost more than the other options.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
you know this I think is a balance problem. seems what your talking about with both ends of the crank, stuff coming loose.
Yes replace your motor. Something sound bend or excessively worn, or out of balance like crap
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Mate, depending on where you are, i know ur probably devistated with whats going on, but heres some links to get you on the road.
ebay has great cheap 2nd hand blocks...
Just swap all the automatic 'ancillaries' etc and type 3 hardware on to a short block like the following:
(will have to work out something with the dipstick, wouldn't be too bad. This is a 1500 cc engine, its 12v so it has the normal flywheel bolt/stud pattern to bolt ur torque convertor, but is single port (suppose to have more torque)
If its an issue, it will take you at most an hr or so to quickly swap your 1600cc pistons, barrels and heads to get dual port and the extra 100cc's capacity, its a straight swap. (its at $25 with no bidders!!)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VW-motor-engine-BEETLE-KOMBI-SPLIT-VOLKSWAGEN-/180569263726?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0ac44e6e
Heres another 1600 bug motor that you can fit: (at $200 and is complete). comes with a weber i think the seller was saying.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VW-Volkswagon-1971-Superbug-Beetle-1600cc-engine-/140460448347?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b4185a5b
Both sellers say they were great motors, just been sitting for sometime. would need a cleanup and lube up, tune up... but will get you back on the road cheap and quick.
👍(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Theres a couple of problems to get around sticking bug and kombi blocks in type3s
most are easy to get around, type3s have the pressure sender in the oil cooler so the type1 boss can just be plugged off and the rear hanger bar mounts need to be tapped out or a rough and bodgy old method was the folded up plates that bolt to the oil pump studs.
One of my old engines had one, looks like a bodgy solution.
But the biggest prob is bug and kombi blocks (factory issue ones anyway) dont have the type3 oil filler/dipstick provision
great, wish i had know about this stuffed crank before wrecking a couple of flex plates... but oh well..
so with the oil dip stick on the type three coming out the back where is it normally? doesnt really matter as long as i can check the oil some how.
and also if i get a motor from something else is the rear fan setup the same or can i change over the one i have?
looks like its time for shopping around. just trying to get this done asap..
so if anyone does have a type 3 motor in Melb id love to hear about it..
Scott.
You could try VW performance centre in Croydon
http://www.vwperformance.com.au/html/body_contact_us.html
or WM Motors in Thomastown (VW parts and Wreckers).
There is also
www.volkshome.com.au also in Thomastown.
Where are you located??
