I have read about people doing it and have also seen plating kits to box them up but I would also be interested in hearing of some practical experience?
Chris yes it is a good idea and i would add the benefit of K bar or as a Baja just build it into a good engine cage to support the forks from trying to torque down
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
depend on how much heat you use. If you are any good with tig, then should be no problem at all. Most newer tigs have a pulse setting which is for heat control.
Pulse is a no brainer setting for those who aren't skilled enough yet to take full advantage of the slope up/down feature.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Newt wrote:As a thought, when you seam weld them- do you end up buring the paint off the inside and open the way to rusting?
Newt
You betcha
This has got to be the biggest car killer out there, even with a pro job, it is often left bare metal behind the repair or welding job, and yep....it rust's like a beauty!!!!
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Yeah Newt, plug weldind pan 1/2's or any spot weld type repair has it's own set of issues. To get a decent weld, both surfaces need to be clean bare metal, then when fitted together, there is an area between the two panels where rust can't help but form, two panels of bare metal touching each other and definately open to air and moisture. The only options are protect the metal with weld through primer before welding, seal the join after welding and using a non hardening, capillary acting rust preventative to get into the area, even where you can't see, I do all three on my jobs...... I hate rust and I dislike repairing it, but even worse, I hate repairing it where it's been repaired before.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
