Did the search thing to no real avail. Can someone tell me the best sealant to use for the floor pan to body seal. Have read article in VW magazine, but he glues the seal in place. Is this a good idea or not.
Will the sealant hold the seal in the correct place on just the floor pan as I want to put the seal on now, but wont bolt the body down for the final time for nearly 3 months. I need to put the body on and off several times for checking things prior to painting and dont want the seal to move and want it on there to stop scratching of painted floor pan.
Thanks, Kevin
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.Hi
I've never had anything to do with taking off the body
and the seal
but it seemed like a good idea to me to glue it into place
[one side only]
My Son painted his chassis with POR 15 first, which is the hardest paint known to mankind... lol
so, taking the body off and on won't scratch the chassis if its POR 15..
I have heard that replacing the rubber seal is one of the hardest jobs on a beetle...
to stop noise, I have padded My beetle with layers of the blue EVA yoga mat You can buy at Go Lo BigW etc.
I have 2 layers over the roof, in all panels, in the doors
around the engine bay inside and out, even under the bonnet and carpet as I like the noise from My twin straight thru pipes from a standard muffler , but My Wife didn't .. so, now she thinks I have quietened My beetle's exhaust... lol
cheers Kev
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
cant remember exactly what we used, but im sure sikaflex would be the go, it dries but stays flexible
Thanks guys and I have heard before that the sealant needs to stay flexible.
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.used sikaflex on mine
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
barls wrote:used sikaflex on mine
X2 for sikaflex
13bt aztec
Hi
Whatever you use make sure its non acidic. Maybe a windscreen sealant?
Are you supposed to still use tacks like the factory did?
Steve
yeah its still tacked into place, and make sure u seal the open ends of the body to pan seal with sikaflex as well
sikaflex is mans best friend👍
Marc
If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at anyone else! Because life is to short not to LAUGH
sikaflex is the best and you can get it at bunnings
Thanks for all the input. Does sikaflex stay flexible when cured ?? I thought it was just a strong adhesive, maybe the name suggests the answer.
Cheers, Kevin
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.it stays flexible for nigh on forever. its also a pita to get off anything you dont want it on like hands
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
If you use your hands to put it on,put some liquid soup on your hands
Thanks again. Bought the Sikaflex and am going down to start sealing.
Cheers, Kevin
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.If you are not going to finally bolt the body down for a while and if you are going to remove the body a few times, I'd seal it to one side only, otherwise getting it off will be big messy hassle.
I'd seal it to the pan and then be careful about how the body is removed.
Either way doesn't matter, I suppose.
uze r all crazy, dont uze sikaflex, think of the poor bastard 20 years from now trying to do a body off resto, hes never going to get it off, sikaflex sticks ike shit to a blanket just uze normal non hardening w/s sealant and it will be fine!
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
Hi Guys,
Scuize my ignorance. Did the original assembly use a sealer (or just a seal tacked in place?).
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
rexy wrote:uze r all f#%King crazy, dont uze sikaflex, think of the poor bastard 20 years from now trying to do a body off resto, hes never going to get it off, sikaflex sticks ike shit to a blanket just uze normal non hardening w/s sealant and it will be fine!
we also use sika at work and dont have any problems with it and we use it on deck plates and burps. they come up every 3 months
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Camo wrote:Thanks again. Bought the Sikaflex and am going down to start sealing.
Cheers, Kevin
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I cant believe I was going to seal the floor pan 2.5 yrs ago and still haven't done it
😢 Amazing how life occurrences can change everything.
Now I read on the sikaflex that it only has 9 months shelf life and is expired. Back to the shops again
😬
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.I'd check it first, I've used Sikaflex way out of date, if it comes out of the tube ok (no undue force) then it's still ok.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
Thanks donn, I will check it out now.
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.the same kev, we have used tubes at work that were on the shelf for over a year. so long as its still liquid its fine.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
use wurth not sikaflex as it is acidic and will corrode if given the smallest amount of bare metal to work thru (scratches)
Use those vinyl "tough" gloves
Thanks again all, for the replies.
Hellbugged, (Dave) VW54 said to use house roof gutter sealant or similar as it was non-acidic so I guess you make a good point about the sikaflex.
Cheers, Kev.
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.wurth make a lot of Volkswagen sealers
Like Wurth seam sealer and you can even buy a bead spreader nozzle. about $20 a cartridge.
Sikaflex is to hold windscreen glass in.🤪 and fixing holes in your work boots😂
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Camo wrote:Thanks again all, for the replies.
Hellbugged, (Dave) VW54 said to use house roof gutter sealant or similar as it was non-acidic so I guess you make a good point about the sikaflex.
Cheers, Kev.
Silicon non acidic translucent sealant...
usually sold as roof/gutter/bathroom sealant..
best to use gloves with this stuff...
looks like silastic acidic sealant but smells different..
best thing about it Kev...
if You needed to pull it all off.... it would all come off in one go.. not like the acidic silicon...
then again I've never had any problems with the original acidic silicon... no rust etc as once it sets....
its on for 10 years... lol and no air can get to it....
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I woud suggest a wind screen sealant like butal mastic, it will stay plyable until you mount the body, sikaflex will set to hard to compress after the three months if you use to much of it, the original gasket was nailed to the pan with no sealant and a mastic sealant used in the corners where the rubbers joint, i have used the mastic several times with no issues, simple clean up with turps
vwo60 wrote:I woud suggest a wind screen sealant like butal mastic, it will stay plyable until you mount the body, sikaflex will set to hard to compress after the three months if you use to much of it, the original gasket was nailed to the pan with no sealant and a mastic sealant used in the corners where the rubbers joint, i have used the mastic several times with no issues, simple clean up with turps
funny you should say that...
I was just thinking of butyl mastic as used on windscreens in the 60s...
excellent stuff... pliable...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Ah, butyl mastic, I have about 6 tubes on the shelf, been there for 20 years, I go out and look at it from time to time, I just love seeing it siting there slowly dieing, it deserves a very slow death, I hate the stuff.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
if you want to smooth out sika flex or any silicone products use a fresly cut potato, cut to the desired shape and it will not stick to the spud. use 11fc as it is more flexible. I build concrete water tanks and sika flex around cast in fittings where the concrete has shrunk away from the fitting.
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