I'm in QLD, where would i take an engine case to get it crack tested? or is there a method of doing it yourself?
cheers
Mick.
1916baja Custom Title Time!
1,990 posts · joined Sep 2007 ·
Crack testing
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
You could do it yourself with kero and talk if you know what to look for (you need good degreaser and preferably compressed air) or get a DyCheck Crack testing kit from an engineering supply shop or maybe even Repco. Otherwise Crankshaft Engineering at Hillcrest can do a pro job. Ph 3806 7488
Often you'll see a cracked case with the naked eye.
Often you'll see a cracked case with the naked eye.
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OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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DubCty Slammed & Awesome Dubber
95 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·
Gday mate,
Your best bet is a colour contrast water emulsifier Dye check but it is important to follow a few rules
1 - The test surface should be above 15° C and must be extremely clean and free of oil a pre cleaner is included in most kits.
2 - Spray the penetrant/ dye on thick and leave for a minimum of 20 minutes to dwell re apply to any areas that look thin.
3 - Wipe the surface clean with an absorbent cloth until the majority of dye is removed.
4 - Lightly sprinkle the test surface with a water mist and allow a few minutes for the emulsifier to do its job.
5 - wipe the tests surface dry until all of the penetrant/Dye is removed
6 - cover the test surface with a few light coats of developer and allow around 15 minutes for the penetrant to bleed out of any defects
7- If you find the penetrant bleeds out rapidly wipe it off and re cover the area in developer for a clearer picture of what's causing the bleed out.
Here is a typical example of what a crack would look like.
I hope this helps.
Your best bet is a colour contrast water emulsifier Dye check but it is important to follow a few rules
1 - The test surface should be above 15° C and must be extremely clean and free of oil a pre cleaner is included in most kits.
2 - Spray the penetrant/ dye on thick and leave for a minimum of 20 minutes to dwell re apply to any areas that look thin.
3 - Wipe the surface clean with an absorbent cloth until the majority of dye is removed.
4 - Lightly sprinkle the test surface with a water mist and allow a few minutes for the emulsifier to do its job.
5 - wipe the tests surface dry until all of the penetrant/Dye is removed
6 - cover the test surface with a few light coats of developer and allow around 15 minutes for the penetrant to bleed out of any defects
7- If you find the penetrant bleeds out rapidly wipe it off and re cover the area in developer for a clearer picture of what's causing the bleed out.
Here is a typical example of what a crack would look like.
I hope this helps.
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Thinker Seriously Crusin Dubber
162 posts · joined Oct 2008 ·
This stuff works really well
http://www.rocol.com/corp/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=409&Itemid=428
We buy it from blackwoods which you can find online not sure if blackwoods are in QLD
We use it to crack test a 1300 head with the students, with a tiny crack that can only be found using the stuff. We then wash the head with kero and test again and again.
http://www.rocol.com/corp/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=409&Itemid=428
We buy it from blackwoods which you can find online not sure if blackwoods are in QLD
We use it to crack test a 1300 head with the students, with a tiny crack that can only be found using the stuff. We then wash the head with kero and test again and again.
1970 bug /1500 stock as a rock.
1976 standard bug ready to be modified 😁😁😁😁😁
1976 standard bug ready to be modified 😁😁😁😁😁