Well,
after trying out 4 different oil coolers including the doghouse cooler both in the engine bay and outside the engine bay..
I fitted a larger oil cooler under the rear RHS mudguard .. and drove around Town for a few weeks ... I then hooked up a temperature gauge to the sender in the type 3 dipstick hole.
YIKES....
75C around town... 60 KMH highest speed.. maybe too cold??
Yesterday I drove down the highway 30klms with the gauge going UP to around 118-120C at 80-90 KMH...
so, it seems that at speed , the air isn't going thru the oil cooler...
so I need to lower it down into the air flow or fit a good fan to it
I haven't done either as yet...
behind My oil cooler is the ATF [automatic transmission tank] so
it may be this that is stopping the air flow....
the Best part was when I returned from the 30 + 30 KMH trip
inside the engine bay was COOL....
and I have closed My engine lid for the winter....
I didn't do the oil dipstick test.... lol
but placed My hand on the alternator and fan shroud.... COOL
so, that is excellent.....
People keep telling Me I should have stayed with the doghouse oil cooler... and maybe I would have... had I seen how cheap the New doghouse oil coolers are now...
But We do what we do... 😊 😂
Aren't you worried that somthing could flick off the road and punch a hole in the cooler.
And is that a fuel pump block off plate with the temp sender, if so do get oil temp or air temp reading.
1970 bug /1500 stock as a rock.
1976 standard bug ready to be modified 😁😁😁😁😁
So what exactly are you running now Lee? That looks like a 6 pass cooler, but is it 1/2" (some are only 3/8 and designed for auto trans and not full flow and is it plumbed to the old cooler take off, if so, what did you do with blocking the og cooler location. Engine doesn't sound too hot by what you said, touching alt etc, is the sender and gauge matched, ie 120* or 150* for both???
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:So what exactly are you running now Lee?
That looks like a 6 pass cooler, but is it 1/2" (some are only 3/8 and designed for auto trans and not full flow and is it plumbed to the old cooler take off,
if so, what did you do with blocking the og cooler location. Engine doesn't sound too hot by what you said, touching alt etc, is the sender and gauge matched, ie 120* or 150* for both???
Yes Mat,
I can never usually touch many parts in the engine bay even with the top of the engine lid open etc..
so, it didn't feel that the engine was HOT...
the VDO sender is part number 320 002 so I don't know if they are matched or not???
I do remember now it did have something stamped on it... lol
I'll have to check it out...
that would be great if I didn't really have a problem...
I'm using one of those adaptors that sit where the oil cooler went.. so, no oil goes thru it until the oil pressure relief valve works.. so, that is good [in My opinion] as its sort of acting like a thermostat.. driving around Scone at night the cooler doesn't get hot at all. as its 11-18C at nght now..
and it wasn't that hot the other day either... I had the heater on coming back 😂
You can usually smell an engine if its really HOT.. and it didn't seem hot...???
the oil cooler is an 8 pass and it is 1/2 inch ....
I also have a transmission cooler but its 3/8 and its made entirely different to this oil cooler.. I tried it, [with no sender],
but it didn't seem to work too good..
this one has fine fins like an air conditioner condensor..
The H0 series 1500 engines were all type 3 type engines..
and all had that dipstick plate on them.. The plate is stamped with the maker... and its about 10mm thick... why its so thick I don't know.... I saw yesterday where you can buy new plates at a VW shop in the Netherlands.. maybe the salt eats them??
68AutoBug wrote:The H0 series 1500 engines were all type 3 type engines..
and all had that dipstick plate on them
Just so there is no confusion, the 1500 H beetle engines, never had the plate, neither did the 1500 O splitty engines, the only ones that did were type 3 M and T engines.
The only reason yours has it is because its a T type3 engine that someone has just stamped your old H number on so they didnt have to do an adjustment of records with the RTA, its an old trick
T001xxxx makes it a mid 66 type3 engine.
Like Matt said there are 2 different VDO senders.
It would pay to check the calibration of your gauge and sender in boiling water, make sure it sits on 100c.
The biggest problem you have is no fan on the cooler.
The only time you can really get away with no fan is if you still have the stock oil cooler as well, or you mount it somewhere in an area of high air flow like under front bumper.
How come you didn't stay with the stock dog house setup?
they are very well engineered and can support modified engines over 2L so a 1600 single port should be no worries
The only time I have ever found a stock doghouse inadequate was on my turbo engine but thats only due to the heat load of the turbo oil return.
My 1776 which runs a 8.8compression ratio with twin carbs, cam etc even in summer in the low-mid 40s never got over 105c oil temp with stock cooler, with decklid standoffs I could get it back below 95c.
Oil temp is related more to revs than engine load.
Head temp will responded to engine load but no to much revs, high revs with not much load (rolling down hill example) drops head temps right back.
Oil grade plays a big part too,
I ran my 1776 on 10/30w as it was a fresh build
it ran much hotter on 20/50 which is because the thicker the oil the more the pressure relief valves open and bypass the oil cooler trying to get the oil hotter and thinner
Thicker oil takes more to cool off too.
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
I've also fitted an oil cooler & it's got a fan attached to it. Once the temp rises to 90, the fan kicks in automatically so i don't have any issues with engine warm ups.
I would suggest that you use a different clamping method for those cooler hoses. The pressure is high & will kick out the hoses. Try the a/c clamping method. And try to also fabricate a block off plate to ensure no stones hit into the cooler.
Another fav location is near the gearbox using steel braided hoses. But the distance is farther than the one behind the fender.
Good luck!!
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
matberry wrote:I'll need to check that part #, your gauge, what is the biggest number on the face, 120 or 150?
Hi Mat
well, I have found two 120 C temperature gauges in My drawers.. so, I will put one of those in...
and I dod believe My engine will NOT over heat.. I also found the sheet of aluminium mesh , so I'll put some over the front of the oil cooler so damage can occur..
Chris,
I would have stuck by the doghouse oil cooler if i could have seen a new one for sale... but have only just seen them for sale...
in the meantime.. I have a few different oil coolers and electric fans in My shed... lol
Best part is,, inside My engine bay is nice and cool....
and fingers crossed My oil temp will be just fine..
not exceeding 100C
Well there's your problem Lee. Presently you have sender 320 002 which is a 120* water temp sender, but you have a 150* oil temp gauge, so the reading won't be correct. I usually recomend fitting a water temp gauge anyway, as the red on the scale often only starts at 110* and that is ok for oil temp in an air cooled vee dub, but much hotter and you want to beware of causing engine damage. Where as the std oil temp gauge is designed for a water cooled engine that can get away with higher oil temp if the water temp is kept unger control, so they have red starting around 125-130* which is HOT for our engines.
So, fit a water temp VDO gauge with 120* full scale and that will match your sender.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Problem with running a cooler like that is that there is nothing cooling your engine while sitting at the lights etc.
Unless of course you have a fan fitted.
If I were you Lee I'd just go back to the doghouse, especially with a stock engine. Adding coolers and hoses and fittings everywhere is just introducing more parts to fail or leak into a system that works fantastically in standard form.
Smiley 😎
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Smiley wrote:Problem with running a cooler like that is that there is nothing cooling your engine while sitting at the lights etc.
Unless of course you have a fan fitted.
If I were you Lee I'd just go back to the doghouse, especially with a stock engine. Adding coolers and hoses and fittings everywhere is just introducing more parts to fail or leak into a system that works fantastically in standard form.
Smiley 😎
x 2
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
I have two VW's producing close to 140hp atw, both registered street cars, both driven often on the road.........both running standard doghouse coolers !
was hoping to go... but I fitted a Pertronix kit in My SVDA distributor on Saturday afternoon and couldn't get it to advance far enough...??
so, was up early on Sunday morning but couldn't fix the problem..
and wasn't game enough to drive on the highway like it was...
I still haven't driven My beetle...
but what I did do today, I ground a couple of mms off the bottom of My rotor, so I could lift the magnetic ring up a bit in case it was touching the bottom plate etc in the distributor..
But, I still haven't started the engine or tested the advance...
maybe I'm afraid I haven't fixed the problem??? 😎
but I will take it for a run tomorrow...
I want to drive to Newcastle on the weekend..
sorry I missed another good day...
I thought I was going to miss seeing You with shoes/boots on... 😂 but I see in the pics... Bare feet...
LEE
PS: how long does it take You to go from Port to Newcastle?
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
