OK - the beetle isnt starting
Drove it yesterday and it made a strange noise when i started it. Bearing / graunch noise.
Anyway - started and drove ok.
Went to start this morning and made a noise or two and nothing
So - what I have done
It has a Brandt immobiliser
It doesnt seem to get power to the solenoid when I kick it over. Have multi meter.
The head lights dim when I kick it over - but not the interior or radio etc
Battery has 12V and doesnt move when I kick it over
I have a spare key switch. I "think" it is good. If i plug thay in and use a screw river it does everything the same as the other key switch.
I have tried to disable the immobiliser by going through the steps as though you have lost you "key" This is also suppose to work if the immobiliser is faulty
NRMA came and reckons its the immobiliser - but he couldnt get it started.
At the moment I am planning on getting it towed to the auto electrician.
Just a pain as its the daily
Any ieas??
Futue te ipsum!!!
hot wire to the coil from the battery and start by turning motor over with screw driver across the post on the solenoid on the starter motor😊
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
battery volts should drop when cranking any car over. not stay at 12v
could be just a Dicky starter motor/
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
if that don't work lightly hit the starter with a hammer while someone turns the Key.😊
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
you could put your car in gear and rock it back and forth , just in case starter stuck in ring gear.
or
try turning motor the backwards a few times with a spanner.
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
sounds like starter.
if it was the imobiliser you would get nothing, not even lights. been there done that.
you can check the big red wire under the rear seat to check your getting power to the starter.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
if its not to hard to push you could try and clutch start it.
turn the key on so dash lights on and push it .
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
if I disconnet the solenoid wire - shouldnt I get 12V when I kick it??
I am getting nuffin
Futue te ipsum!!!
yes you should get 12 volts at the starter wire not just the solenoid wire
try tracing the wire back, if its the same as mine it goes forward and into the cabin just to the left of the box and comes out under the rear seat.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
ian.mezz wrote:if that don't work lightly hit the starter with a hammer while someone turns the Key.😊
With the graunch noise it sounds like the starter,most likely brushes worn.As Ian says give it a tap with a hammer whilst the key is in the start position. Cheers Les
Hi
all the normal things may NOT work if its the immoboliser...
as that is what they are supposed to do....
Normally,
there should be Power at the solenoid when you turn the key
BUT... If Your ignition switch has worn out at the contacts...
and they DO wear out [burn out]...
[unless You have a Hot start Relay fitted , which puts very little current thru the ignition switch ...
just enough to operate a normal 12v relay...]
If the ignition switch contacts are burnt and not making contact then Your solenoid won't work... [no power]
If the brushes in Your starter motor have worn down then You WOULD still have 12 Volts at the solenoid...
so its NOT That...
My Guess is...
Ignition Switch [ or Immobiliser after switch malfuncioned]
Lee
PS: and hitting a starter motor with a hammer should be against the law...
quote]Originally posted by Bizarre
OK - the beetle isnt starting
Drove it yesterday and it made a strange noise when i started it. Bearing / graunch noise.
Anyway - started and drove ok.
Went to start this morning and made a noise or two and nothing
So - what I have done
It has a Brandt immobiliser???
It doesnt seem to get power to the solenoid when I kick it over. Have a multi meter.
The head lights dim when I kick it over - but not the interior or radio etc
Battery has 12V and doesnt move when I kick it over
I have a spare key switch. I "think" it is good. If i plug that in and use a screw river it does everything the same as the other key switch.
I have tried to disable the immobiliser by going through the steps as though you have lost you "key" This is also suppose to work if the immobiliser is faulty
NRMA came and reckons its the immobiliser - but he couldnt get it started.
At the moment I am planning on getting it towed to the auto electrician.
Just a pain as its the daily
Any ieas?? [/quote]
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
its not immobiliser as you get nothing, not even lights trust me ive got the same one and have had it shit itself, cost me 600 bucks to fix. still not happy about that.
could be ignition switch, though im still going with broken wire under the seat.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Hi Barry
The wire that goes to the starter goes into the chassis near the rear brake line and battery cable, try a jump wire across to the battery to see if the starter works then. There is a connector on the wire I'm sure.
After making a noise it sounds like your starter is nfg.
Try checking that the earth strap on the tranny is OK with a test light and that the battery cable is OK as well
Multi meters have their uses but sometimes a test light is much better. A multi meter will still show 12 volts at a bad connection because it puts no load on the connection, a test light with an incandescent bulb will.
Steve
Starter was really sick
My test on the solenoid wire was obviously faulty
Needed a new battery in the meter
Free tow to the auto elect (yippee NRMA Gold member 👍)
Ripper starter from VVDS (thanks Boris)
Bugger all to get some one else to put it in
Too easy - Thanks to all the replies
Futue te ipsum!!!
