Engine/Trans Removal on a 71 Autostick

Hey Guys,

I've plucked up the courage to have a crack at dropping the engine out of the bug and replacing the transaxle with a replacement 2nd hander.

I have followed the various web site and manuals to remove the engine - and discovered a few variations which have kept me guessing !

My question is - in the autostick engine bay there is a valve/regulator on the left hand side.. I think it is some sort of vacuum unit as it has a diaphram and adjustment valve. Tried to post a pic but haven't sussed that out yet.



Does anyone know what it is called ? I need to replace a couple of the hoses (one goes to below the carb and the other through the LHS guard). What are these braided hoses and what type of hose should I replace them with?

Thanks in advance..

it is a reg/ valve

use vacuum hose

anything your unsure of ?

join this forum as well for your vw auto probs

http://www.vwar.org/
and the vacuum hose isnt ordinary vacuum hose

Thanks , that photo is exactly it. I followed the VWAR link then on to a user site with a colour coded engine components (Lee I think who I believe is on this site).

If it's not normal vacuum hose, any suggestions as to what to use and where to get it? (Melbourne or online)

pod wrote:join this forum as well for your vw auto probs

And for some reason they are not taking registrations at the moment 🥲

you can use duufield D900 !/2"

its not vacuum hose but it works well

I have used it

chillihilli wrote:Hey Guys,

I've plucked up the courage to have a crack at dropping the engine out of the bug and replacing the transaxle with a replacement 2nd hander.

I have followed the various web site and manuals to remove the engine - and discovered a few variations which have kept me guessing !

My question is - in the autostick engine bay there is a valve/regulator on the left hand side.. I think it is some sort of vacuum unit as it has a diaphram and adjustment valve. Tried to post a pic but haven't sussed that out yet.



Does anyone know what it is called ? I need to replace a couple of the hoses (one goes to below the carb and the other through the LHS guard). What are these braided hoses and what type of hose should I replace them with?

Thanks in advance..

HI

that is the electrical operated vacuum control valve which sends vacuum to the clutch servo so You can change gears.

I have used high pressure Air Hose as used on trucks
12 or 12.3mm or 1/2 inch.. made in USA and not expensive
red colored ..
this should last for many years....
some good quality oil hose may last for a while??
and some Hydraulic hose 1/2 inch should also be OK...

it all depends on the inner section of the hose... and how good its glued to the outer section...
the air hose I use looks ideal...

the same hose used on the auto stick was used as a vacuum hose in some mercedes benz vehicles and is cheap in the USA
but I think it would be expensive in Australia...??

cheers

LEE

Chilli and Honey (Hmmm, something in that I think😂),

PM me or Lee some details (like : attempted username you registered as etc etc ) and we'll try and get you sorted over on VWAR.

We're both Mods over there, but Bjorn (who owns the site) is the only one who can do new users.

Chilli, I've got Parker Hannefin hose on mine at the mo' ,but I've got the Belmetric as well.
Just so long as the hosing has stiff walls it should be OK.

Don't forget to undo the 4 flexplate to torque converter bolts. Better if you sus out what type they are NOW rather be caught short. Also, try and wire (or strap) the TC in place inside the bellhousing once the four bolts are off.
You can swap the trans part seperately from the bellhousing part - just more fiddly.


Enjoy
Ctefeh aka Volkenstein

Thanks for that. I'll research and order the new hose ASAP. Are they easily available locally? I noticed the torque converter was just hanging there so put some straps across it to stop it wandering.

I'll do the transaxle during the week, but I completed the engine removal today.

And in the interests of helping out fellow dubbers with research on stuff that stumped me, I noted the following which differs from texts' I've read.

- Torque converter bolts are qty 4 * 8 mm, not qty 3 x 13mm as I had read. My 7 year old did a great job of rotating the pulley 1/4 turn with a shifter to bring the next bolt around to the inspection window in the bellhouse. A 1/4 on the pulley gives a 1/4 on the torque converter. Once you mark one you can easily mark the pulley and rotate the engine 1/4 at a time to get the rest.

- ATF pump. The plumbing for this stumped me a little. So I after I drained the tank (disconnect metal tube from pump at rearmost of car, center, I then had to disconnect a hose from the rear engine tin on the RHS of the pulley - which coupled to a metal tube down to the pump. None of the reading mentioned this. ATF everywhere. I think I need to spend some trying to clean this up.

- Electrical. As I jacked the body up I nearly broke my wiring to relay on the RHS of the engine bay. Whilst I had dismounted the relay, the wiring needed to be individually tagged, disconnected and pushed back through the engine tin.

- Engine bolts. There are only 4, but to the amateur they are bit of a mystery. So on my 71 Superbug autostick, there were two at the bottom, under the car, about 4 inches each of side of center and about two inches up. Slide under the car, and look where the trans meets the engine. Chest about even with the oil drainer cover. These aren't so much engine mount bolts as they are engine to transmission bolts. There are three to be undone under the car. The two mentioned above and one right near the clutch actuator arm on the LHS of the car.

The clutch one - It's a bugger to get to, but I used a 1/2 ratchet, 17mm socket and both a long and short extension ie an extra long extension. I cracked the bolt whilst the car was up (on stands of course) then lowered the car and slithered under to undo it. Not as hard as I expected in the end.

All 4 bolts go front to rear. That is, your remove the 3 under the car forward to the front of the car. The engine bay one is a nut and comes off toward the rear.

The last was a 17mm nut behind the shroud on the RHS and taken off from inside the engine bay. It's done by feel but not that difficult once you get onto it. I found two nuts by feel, but remember, they run front/rear. The "extra" one was running sideways so not the right one.

Jacking - strangely enough lifting the bug - or dropping the engine - seems to be the most variable thing in the procedure. After all my disconnections were made, I put slight jack pressure on the engine only whilst I loosened the top two bolts/nuts. The one by clutch underneath and the one behind the shroud. These came out fairly easy and I found I could "wiggle" the engine a bit. I then decided to remove the rearmost engine tin and could wiggle back a bit more. Once realised the engine was clear I started work on raising the bug.

First, I propped the engine on top of the trolley jack with two bricks. I made up a little lifter plate with some 19mm yellow tongue flooring with some 70x35 pine screwed on either side to cradle then engine either side of the sump cover plate. Jack stands ready, I used the bottle jack from my Prado to lift the bug at cross member which holds the engine mounts (where the engine and transmission meet).

I extended the jack stands, and dropped the bug on to the stands, then removed the jack and built up a jack platform of 8 blocks of 19mm tongue and groove flooring screwed together. I jacked again then got the stands to full height.

Repeating the above, i then built two jack platforms from 35mm pine and 19mm tongue and groove ie/54mm each. This gave me enough to jack the bug right up, and pull the engine out (the Mrs helped me keep it balanced on the trolley jack).

It can't be said enough, but if the car is on a jack only, never get under it, and always assume it's going to fall and what the impact of a half a ton bug hitting your knee, shoulder, head, would be. I exercise the utmost caution when positioning jack stands.

So the engine is now resting on two bricks either side of the oil drain cover, where it will get a bit of cleaning and TLC.