tweety wrote:Bought 2 gaskets recently (cork). did allt he right things like clean both surfaces etc. used red high temp silicone very lightly on each surface. Didnt over tight bolts.
Got a pool of fluid on the floor while I am doing my Subaru conversion.
Hi Tweety, I've just done this job on my 71 Bug Autostick. A couple of questions:
- Are we talking about "Auto" or "Autostick" (semi auto)?
- You also mention fluid. Did you use Auto fluid or Gearbox oil?
- Is it come out when the trike is started and/or hot or when it is just sitting there?
- Did you remember to put the four bolt braces on ?
Where my Autostick pan gasket goes is the spot where all the gearbox oil goes. The Auto Transmission Fluid only runs through the torque converter - not the gears themselves. I just bought gaskets from the USA (only place I could get them). The gaskets were cheap (the shipping was not) but they were made from grey gasket paper/cardboard stuff, not cork. I only used GP auto grease on mine and it's not leaking at all (although I haven't started it yet.
I'm not an expert so forgive me if they are dumb questions - but I just replaced an Autostick trans which the previous owner had filled with ATF - and it was the noisest part on the car. I've filled the replacement with gearbox oil, and I can turn the shaft by hand and it doesn't make a sound. I just want to make sure you are not about to make the same mistake as my previous owner.
And one more thing - my preferred method for silicon (I didn't use it on the pan gasket this time) is to apply it, tighten the bolts up so it squashes the silicon out past the edges (I use a hand wheel ratchet for this - you see it just ooze out the seam), then come back 24 hours later to snug it up. I learnt this from my Kayak sealing days. The idea being the silicon makes the gasket - it cures over the 24 hours - then you compress it to make a seal. Just my method, that's all.
Cheers Pete.
