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Wheel alignment specs - Help Needed

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Gracey Wolfsburg Wizard

511 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·

#870087
Hi all,

I've just fitted eccentric camber adjusters to my 76' model Bug (ball joint) and now it needs a wheel alignment.
The car is lowered approx 50mm all round, it's slightly lower at the front.
I've got a set of castor shims I was thinking of adding but I'm not sure if it needs them.
Can anyone tell me what I should have the front wheel alignment set to for all round use and also what should I have the rear set to?

Andrew

Sides Veteran Volks Folk

2,220 posts · joined May 2007 ·

#870096
When Jezzi was my daily driver she was a BJ Swinger.

Back then she was lowered about 50mm front, rear set about 10mm higher, 1 set of shims, 2mm toe in on the front and dead level toe on the rear. Camber came to about 1 deg neg rear at that height, so front was set close but not quite as aggressive... maybe .5 deg neg.

She stuck through corners nicely, nicely controlllable right foot oversteer and still easily get 70,000km from the sort-of-sticky Bridgie 339's I had.

Ahh the memories... with a 1640cc and Kads, at only 19 was sure I was king of the road !!!

😉
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hellbugged 48's and straight cuts

5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·

#870105
front... 1.5-3 degree neg camber, 5 degree positive castor 20' toe in total

rear.. 1- 2.5 degree neg camber 20' toe in

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#870119
you will need to measure the castor before you fit the shims, take them with you to the wheel alignmnet place and fit them there if needed, remember if you go over the factory castor setting the steering will get a lot heavier

Gracey Wolfsburg Wizard

511 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·

#870185
Thanks guys I appreciate the replies.

I'm not worried about tyre life as this isn't my daily driver, I'm more interested in going around corners at stupid speeds😀

So an aggressive setup is more to my liking.

At the moment the steering is very light and twitchy, especially under brakes, so I'm thinking it needs more castor (along with a wheel alignment).

Does anyone know how much castor as set of castor shims adds?

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#870197
I'm with Daimo's setup too
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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Gracey Wolfsburg Wizard

511 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·

#870200
Cool, thanks guys!!

hellbugged 48's and straight cuts

5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·

#870210
Wedges.....2.36 degree are approx 5.9mm thick

And 3.6 degree are around 8.6mm thick

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#870213
Gracey wrote:At the moment the steering is very light and twitchy, especially under brakes, so I'm thinking it needs more castor (along with a wheel alignment).
This is due to the angle your tierods are now at due to it being lowered.........you need to twist your steering box around to level them out.

To do this you will need to notch the holding clamp on the steering box so it can be rotated around the locating pin on the beam.


Gracey Wolfsburg Wizard

511 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·

#870231
hellbugged wrote:Wedges.....2.36 degree are approx 5.9mm thick

And 3.6 degree are around 8.6mm thick

Thanks Daimo

Gracey Wolfsburg Wizard

511 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·

#870234
Craig Torrens wrote:
Gracey wrote:At the moment the steering is very light and twitchy, especially under brakes, so I'm thinking it needs more castor (along with a wheel alignment).
This is due to the angle your tierods are now at due to it being lowered.........you need to twist your steering box around to level them out.

To do this you will need to notch the holding clamp on the steering box so it can be rotated around the locating pin on the beam.
I've never heard of this before, I'll have to crawl under the car on the weekend and have a look.
Wouldn't doing this cause alignment issues between the steering box and steering column?