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More Neg Camber

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sander288 "Bolt-on Master"

1,404 posts · joined Aug 2008 ·

#873647
Hi All,

Whilst i've been waiting for the motor to finish (which it is now...) i've been looking over the car seeing where some improvements can be made.

The back of my car is set-up so it has about -0.5 deg to -1 deg camber.

I've tried loading up the compensating bar a little more with longer bolts but they appear to just float below the bar and it never actually gets loaded up. (have same comp spring as G Mackie)

Is there a way to get some more camber (like 2 - 2.5 neg degrees) without lowering the car too much; as i'm very mindful of not going too low.

Before I changed the spring plate bushings it was adjusted 3inners & 3outers on the torsion bars; but I think it may of come back to 2in 2out when I replaced the bushings.

Thinking about going for an additional 2in & 2out.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Shaun



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BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW ❗

Special Air Service Chief "Gunna"

1,769 posts · joined Oct 2004 ·

#873672
Camber on a swingaxle is governed by the ride height / ride height is governed by the amount of camber you want. No avoiding it.


To load up your camber spring you will need to "restrain" the spring so that it cant float up & down on the shank of the bolt. Either using a spacer, or changing the "bolt" to a "set screw" that is threaded all the way to the head. You can then positively locate the leaf spring with another nut.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
Brendan
Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers

Click Below
Mid North Coast VW

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#873692
lower your gearbox so its closer to the floorpan forks 😉


matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#873713
Yep, lower it with bigger torsions so as to not require as much travel. Size of torsion depends on what spring plates/torsion length required and size engine and weight of car etc..
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

sander288 "Bolt-on Master"

1,404 posts · joined Aug 2008 ·

#873777
pete wood wrote:what about the cable and pulley setup the Fvees run? Greg Ward has one on his beetle. That would do the trick nicely.
Good idea the old cable, but it does reduce travel quite a bit. I was hoping to tarmac rally the car in early classic so i wanted to keep some travel; but if i do send it down the track route i would definatly put it on there.

I don't think bigger torsion bars are the go, as i'd loose the benefit of having a swing axle. Ideally I'd want to change over to a zero roll set-up and leave the roll control to the front axle; but thats alot of time and money and not allowed by any rules except sport sedans!

Also the problem with stffer rear is it will stick to a point and then just let go; where as if it's gradual weight transfer it will stick

Suppose i'll just lower the thing and see how it goes, can always put it back up if it's too low.
BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW ❗

sander288 "Bolt-on Master"

1,404 posts · joined Aug 2008 ·

#873952
Special Air Service wrote:Camber on a swingaxle is governed by the ride height / ride height is governed by the amount of camber you want. No avoiding it.


To load up your camber spring you will need to "restrain" the spring so that it cant float up & down on the shank of the bolt. Either using a spacer, or changing the "bolt" to a "set screw" that is threaded all the way to the head. You can then positively locate the leaf spring with another nut.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
Brendan
Thats a great Idea using a 'set screw' type arrangement; you could then really "push" the axles up to make it work. I'll give that a go before I go mucking about with the torsion bars!

The compensating bar would then be much like this one jsut a different way.

http://356enterprises.com/home/?page_id=38

Thanks Brendan.

Cheers

Shaun
BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW ❗

colin Fahrvergnugen

984 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·

#874000
About 1 deg neg on the rear sounds about ideal to me.
Remember the car squats and increases the neg as you accelerate, so you get more neg.
The more neg at acceleration the less contact patch on the road which eqauls less traction.

Cheers Col

Special Air Service Chief "Gunna"

1,769 posts · joined Oct 2004 ·

#874041
sander288 wrote:
Special Air Service wrote:Camber on a swingaxle is governed by the ride height / ride height is governed by the amount of camber you want. No avoiding it.


To load up your camber spring you will need to "restrain" the spring so that it cant float up & down on the shank of the bolt. Either using a spacer, or changing the "bolt" to a "set screw" that is threaded all the way to the head. You can then positively locate the leaf spring with another nut.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
Brendan
Thats a great Idea using a 'set screw' type arrangement; you could then really "push" the axles up to make it work. I'll give that a go before I go mucking about with the torsion bars!

The compensating bar would then be much like this one jsut a different way.

http://356enterprises.com/home/?page_id=38

Thanks Brendan.

Cheers

Shaun
Yeah, hoping to build somehting very similar for my beetle.

Make sure you show us what you end up with.
Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers

Click Below
Mid North Coast VW

sander288 "Bolt-on Master"

1,404 posts · joined Aug 2008 ·

#874278
Getting some threaded 1/2 " rod and some Nyloc nuts this weekend; it's just hard to find good UNF stuff - looking at McGill Motorsport on an ebay store
BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW ❗