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Stainless lines

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thebullfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

163 posts · joined Sep 2011 ·

#873451
Firstly, last exam finnished today of grade 12...freedom.

Now to business, engine is out, body is about to come off.

The question is how difficult is it to run stainless fuel lines, if you've never done it before, i've watched a few videos and read several articles and have noted that the tunnel is the most difficult place to run the lines, also, for a bigger motor (1916 or higher).
What kind of additions do i need for the standard system, is it only a return/delivery line??
Are there any pre-cautions that need to be made, i have little knowledge on this topic.

Thanks,

Jeremy

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#873612
yes it can be done but requires careful planning and cutting access holes in the tunnel and welding them back. Placement of the lines is important! so it doesn't interfere with shifter rod, hand brake stuffs and other cables.

As for holding in the lines, probably good idea to copy what vw have done with the stock lines. Or clamping blocks like what you see under most modern/semi modern cars


I plan to do the same thing eventually and also silver braze AN bungs/fittings on the ends of them.


you just need 2 lines, supply and return, for efi that is. only one line for carby.

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

thebullfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

163 posts · joined Sep 2011 ·

#873686
Where can these be purchased from (links)? What sort of lengths are required and are there any ways around cutting into the tunnel. DO any connecters need to be purchased and what kind?

HappyDaze Superannuated

2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·

#873716
Be aware that stainless steel will work-harden [and break] if it is not well supported, and allowed to vibrate.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#873825
there is nothing wrong with mild steel so thats an option too and probably the better one.

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

thebullfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

163 posts · joined Sep 2011 ·

#873894
Thanks guys, its a bit to consider, how do those connectors work, does anyone happen to have pictures of these on or being fitted?

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#873914
Congradulations, in reality your freedom is now finnished and you can look foward to a life of servitude, on your subject, you will need to deceide what you want to actually want to achive, fuel injection, carbs, etc, etc. that will determine if you even need to change anything, if you want to change the line in the tunnel the only option is to cut access holes into it and weld them up after you have finnished as stated by a previous reply.

thebullfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

163 posts · joined Sep 2011 ·

#873930
Freedom is the world of the month at the moment 😎

What i want to achieve:

EDIT: After speaking to Nino of Bocchino motors, he has turned me, he suggested one of his 1850cc's motor that putsout 165hp. Its not only has a decent power put its also prown to not breaking down.

Being able to put out a decent amount of power and be able to highway cruise at 100+kmph.

Engine will more then likly be a Pobjoy engine.

I have no knowledge in engine building and the pickup and feed lines involved.

looking forward to my knowledge being broadened.

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#874004
If Stan builds you a engine he can guide you on the fuel line requirements, the 1850 CC motor with 165HP output is optimistic, to build any vw engine with that power is very expensive.

vassy66T1 Wow ... are U reading this?

2,120 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#874022
vwo60 wrote:If Stan builds you a engine he can guide you on the fuel line requirements, the 1850 CC motor with 165HP output is optimistic, to build any vw engine with that power is very expensive.
ditto that.
Cheap
Power
Longevity (lasting)
Choose 2 only.

thebullfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

163 posts · joined Sep 2011 ·

#874045
There are many options to choose from, and we could talk about it forever. However the 1850 comes in at a bit under 5 figures and is built with power and longetivity in mind.

With that in mind now, i will also give Stan a call and speak to him in regards to this as well.

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 ·

#874062
I would like to see the 165 HP reading on a dyno, like i said power does not come cheap and you can spend five grand on a basic motor, carbs for that would cost two grand. had a look on the samba and this 1915 CC engine with no exhaust, clutch and running standard cylinder heads costs $4295US.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=488765

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#874069
thebullfrog wrote:There are many options to choose from, and we could talk about it forever. However the 1850 comes in at a bit under 5 figures and is built with power and longetivity in mind.

With that in mind now, i will also give Stan a call and speak to him in regards to this as well.
$6500 will get you about 65hp atw with stan, its about $100/HP from him.


matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#874124
You have a pic of the fuel line under the fuel tank with the hose perrished and broken on p1 of your members rides thread. Here you describe it as 'The fatigued connecter which had done 40 years of service' It's no connector, just hose that slips onto the steel pipe, take the hose off and replace with new VW hose (5mm) and bigger lines are'nt really required untill you have some real serious horse power, even 165 could run stock pipes.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

thebullfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

163 posts · joined Sep 2011 ·

#874152
matberry wrote:You have a pic of the fuel line under the fuel tank with the hose perrished and broken on p1 of your members rides thread. Here you describe it as 'The fatigued connecter which had done 40 years of service' It's no connector, just hose that slips onto the steel pipe, take the hose off and replace with new VW hose (5mm) and bigger lines are'nt really required untill you have some real serious horse power, even 165 could run stock pipes.
Thanks for that mat, ill get some new 5mm vw hose, thats what i want to hear in regards to if i have the NEED to run bigger lines.

Thanks Craig, $100/hp is an easy way to remember it for sure.

TCS_58 Casual Dubber

34 posts · joined Dec 2011 ·

#879260
Well in that case I'll be spending 25-30,000 on mine haha

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 ·

#879389
haha so a stock engine is 5000-6500?

really? if so, thats ridiculous!

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

DubbyDo Officially Full-On Dubber

276 posts · joined Jan 2012 ·

#898357
vlad01 wrote:haha so a stock engine is 5000-6500?

really? if so, thats ridiculous!
AS Craig said At The Wheels (ATW) Which from memory is roughly 2/3 of flywheel horsepower. So your stock 1600TP at 59HP is only pumping out roughly 40HP ATW. So 65HP ATW could be up to 97-98HP. Correct me if I'm wrong, the only thing I am 100% about is you lose HP through the drivetrain