Well
My oil cooler hose came off at 100 KMH a couple of days ago...
My fault.. clamps weren't tight...
I felt a Power Loss and a drop in speed...
looked out My rear vision Mirror... BLUE SMOKE...
so I turned the engine off and pulled off the highway..
looked under the back and a big pool of engine oil...
My first thoughts were the oil cooler [temporary] had hit something.. or the road....
but I let the car run down the hill and onto a side road where I jacked the car up, took the wheel off and found the oil cooler hanging by one hose.. and a tie down...??
I rang My wife to bring Me some oil... so I refitted the oil cooler and filled the engine with oil....
and drove back home... car goes and idles but its like it has some fouled spark plugs ...
I checked all the tappets today... all correct...
I was on My way to get My car passed for rego...
do I drive the 30klms next monday and have the car passed before I pull the engine out and pull it apart???
what are Your thoughts????
looks like all the oil galleries are still clear???
Is the engine noisy, knocking of any kind, check the oil pressure, check the plugs, did the engine ingest the oil through the air filter, it pays to spend money on good braided lines with the correct JIS/SAE fittings.
oh pooh
not good but how did u forget to tighten up themes hoses? 😬
sounds expensive
bingo for the pic as I was looking for it covered in oil?
I wonder if magnateck would of held it all together??
put some moreys in it n it should be fine maybe 🙂
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
If it was slowing its self down it will be shagged.
Time to get rid of all that extra bolt on stuff Lee.
Stock engines dont need it.
"parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service difficulties"
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
absolutly nothing wrong with external coolers if they are done correctly, i would like to see some of the high horse power engines run with only the dog house cooler.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
vwo60 wrote:Is the engine noisy, knocking of any kind, check the oil pressure, check the plugs, did the engine ingest the oil through the air filter, it pays to spend money on good braided lines with the correct JIS/SAE fittings.
Worst part is... I have a new doghouse oil cooler to go in....!!
No knocking or noise at all...
just low in power... plenty of compression when turning the crankshaft pulley to check the tappets...
I will check the spark plugs...
the oil went underneath the car all over the RH side of the exhaust and muffler...
although most went on the ground when i stopped...?
I didn't notice the oil light come on...
I will Now have an EXTRA VERY BRIGHT oil light - so I will see it go on..
someone on here said they used the oil light to turn off the ignition if the oil pressure drops... I wish I had done that...!!
it would have saved a lot of problems and money...
Now I just need to get it passed for rego so I can pull it apart...
usually I check all hose clamps at least 6 times... and I used to double clamp years ago...
especially fuel hoses...
I hope You are wrong Vlad...
maybe the bearings are scored slightly?? all bearings??
cheers
LEE
Back to standard next time.... no more temporary oil coolers.
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Sorry to hear of your misfortune, maybe time for a bit more power twin port heads and 1776, would make a nice upgrade and the semi auto can handle it OK.
I've fitted a double through relay to control a fuel pump, you could use it to turn power off to the ignition coil if you loose oil pressure.
87 not used
87A goes to the ignition coil
85 goes to the oil pressure warning light wire
86 & 30 are joined and fed by the ignition switch
On this relay when its at rest with no ignition feed, no power comes out of the relay at 87 or 87A
Turn the ignition on and the relay gets earth from the oil pressure switch, no power comes out of 87A, it only come out of 87 which is not used.
When the oil pressure builds the warning light goes out and the relay has no earth so it goes back to rest state but power goes through the relay at pin 30 and on to 87A to power the ignition coil, if there is no oil pressure the relay is earthed again which takes power away from 87A.
Definately not one of VWs brighter ideas in flat windscreen beetles, using such a piddly little oil pressure idiot light that you need a magnifying glass to see.
Even more so making it green of all colours in 68 and earlier bugs, what were they thinking...
I had a warning beeper on mine that was loud enough to be noticed while driving but not to be annoying everytime the ignition was turned on.
An oil pressure gauge is an invaluable tool though, I have fitted them in every VW i use on the road.
Driving down the road at 100km/h your engine is turning 3000rpm or more, by the time that light comes on at 3psi or less and you notice it and stop the engine it's on borrowed time.
An oil pressure gauge you would catch it slowly dropping off earlier.
Joel wrote:Definately not one of VWs brighter ideas in flat windscreen beetles, using such a piddly little oil pressure idiot light that you need a magnifying glass to see.
Even more so making it green of all colours in 68 and earlier bugs, what were they thinking...
I had a warning beeper on mine that was loud enough to be noticed while driving but not to be annoying everytime the ignition was turned on.
An oil pressure gauge is an invaluable tool though, I have fitted them in every VW i use on the road.
Driving down the road at 100km/h your engine is turning 3000rpm or more, by the time that light comes on at 3psi or less and you notice it and stop the engine it's on borrowed time.
An oil pressure gauge you would catch it slowly dropping off earlier.
agreed
I have volts, oil pressure n temp gauge in my beetle
I'm always keeping an eye on them while the little girl is barreling down the highway
much more accurate than the little man in the dash who lights the oil light candle when something is wrong
you get to know how things roll n if it isn't right you can spot it shut it down n check it out before the 'lee' syndrome kicks in n losses the lot
invest in some gauges lee n set em up n I'm sure you can colour em pink or yellow to suit your attire 😉
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Joel wrote:An oil pressure gauge you would catch it slowly dropping off earlier.
I'll second that. Whilst I don't have that much VW experience, I do have a pilots license 👍 . Most light planes use a bigger version of a VW engine (flat 4 Continental or Lycoming). As you learn to fly you are taught to watch the oil pressure gauge constantly. Its the earliest indicator of an impending engine failure as a symptom of a problem somewhere in the oil circulation/sealing systems.
Here's an interesting story about reacting early to an oil pressure gauge reading low:
well I have an oil pressure gauge which reads full scale as soon as the ignition is turned on....
so... another thing I should have fixed....??
Buzzer sounds great too...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Your story is typical of a veedubbers nightmare. Lets hope its nothing serious. Lucas oil stabiliser is great insurance for short durations of complete lost oil pressure. I been using it in fear of a drained sump after all the fun with oil leaks i have had. Nuffin worse though then when the crap happens to ya, and we all tell ya what you should have done which doesn't help ya right now lol, but i'm sure mate you'll get back on the road soon. have you measured the compression on each cylinders? no chance of the piston rings just being a bit dry? (desperately trying to give some rookie hints to excite some hope)
68AutoBug wrote:well I have an oil pressure gauge which reads full scale as soon as the ignition is turned on....
so... another thing I should have fixed....??
Buzzer sounds great too...
LEE
If it didn't drop pressure when your hose came off then it's obviously faulty.. I think you've answered your own question... I've been thinking about an oil pressure gauge. Do you have an oil temp guage? What did that say?
71 Clementine Superbug Autostick
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
Your story is typical of a veedubbers nightmare. Lets hope its nothing serious. Lucas oil stabiliser is great insurance for short durations of complete lost oil pressure. I been using it in fear of a drained sump after all the fun with oil leaks i have had. Nuffin worse though then when the crap happens to ya, and we all tell ya what you should have done which doesn't help ya right now lol, but i'm sure mate you'll get back on the road soon. have you measured the compression on each cylinders? no chance of the piston rings just being a bit dry? (desperately trying to give some rookie hints to excite some hope)
I haven't started it again since I drive it home...
with NEW Magnatech in it.,...
I'm sure?? that a bearing has been picked up... due to no oil and over heating [friction]
the oil temperature gauge didn't go HIGH... as I do watch it..
it was on about 60 or 80C degrees...
but once the oil drained out... the temperature gauge wasn't measuring anything...
Hoping for maybe New bearings and a crankshaft polish...??
as it wasn't an overheating problem... Air was still flowing over the cylinders etc...
but lack of lubrication = friction= heat .. and ??? YIKES..
Chris
I always pour some oil in the spark plug holes when I've had an engine apart - [ heads or cylinders/pistons etc.. ]
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
h wrote:oh magnatech 😉 nice one
it shoulda stuck on 👍
thats just marketing! most if not all oils have polarized chemicals that make it stick and wicks across metals to form a sacrificial surface.
It wouldn't surprise me if magnatec has one of the least of all brands.
ZDDP is one of those and magnatech doesn't have much of that.
omg 🙅 checked their site and they don't even tell the content on their spec sheet and they how have a fuel saver magnatec? that definitely can't be good.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
h wrote:oh magnatec 😉 nice one
it shoulda stuck on 👍
thats just marketing! most if not all oils have polarized chemicals that make it stick and wicks across metals to form a sacrificial surface.
It wouldn't surprise me if magnatec has one of the least of all brands.
ZDDP is one of those and magnatec doesn't have much of that.
omg 🙅 checked their site and they don't even tell the content on their spec sheet and they how have a fuel saver magnatec? that definitely can't be good.
Hi
The fuel saver oils started a few years ago in the USA..
Ford couldn't reduce their fuel consumption enough to meet the new USA laws... so they used 5w/10 engine oil [?? from memory] which reduced their fuel consumption enough to pass the fuel consumption law..
so that was the fuel saver oil... lol
I think I will change to a different brand of oil...
Castrol don't give You any info on them especially ZDDP..
and have definately changed their oil specs recently...
GTX 2 has gone... Now there are Two GTX...
and two or more magnatecs...??
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
h wrote:oh magnatech 😉 nice one
it shoulda stuck on 👍
thats just marketing! most if not all oils have polarized chemicals that make it stick and wicks across metals to form a sacrificial surface.
It wouldn't surprise me if magnatec has one of the least of all brands.
ZDDP is one of those and magnatech doesn't have much of that.
omg 🙅 checked their site and they don't even tell the content on their spec sheet and they how have a fuel saver magnatec? that definitely can't be good.
🤪😂
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Col's 2332 is 140+ rwhp and has no ext cooler, just stock doghouse and 9.7:1 CR, ceramic coatings definately help though. It's all in the engine build. My new car has an old 1915 and it runs heaps hotter but makes less power than the 2332. During an engine optimisation, it's often possible to make more power with less engine temperature, comes down to the engine build details.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
A Raby developed version should be available at Joe Gibbs distributors. That version is called "Joe Gibbs Driven DT50" oil specially for the VW and Porsche AC engine.
Years or R & D went into this oil and its a carry on from the Snake oil that Raby developed with Joe Gibbs oil chemists at hand.
can't see it on their site but I am sure if you request it they can get some in.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
