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gear changing problem

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jamiesc Wolfsburg Wizard

559 posts · joined Dec 2010 ·

#878861
i have a problem with my gearbox i had recently pulled my engine out to put in new scat rockers, clutch for , bush kit, clutch cable, another pressure plate and when i bolted it back in i had trouble with the gears slipping in 2nd 3rd 4th and it wouldnt go in reverse but i adjusted it more and then it wasnt slipping at all and was going in every gear then first gear started to be a lil trouble it would shutter when you go to take of and now im having troubles to get it in reverse 1st and 2nd like my clutch isnt in and i ajusted my clutch more but it didnt help
can anybody help me ann help much appreciated

cheers jamie

cesiumfrog Seriously Crusin Dubber

161 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·

#878881
did you put in a new bowden tube? maybe too little or too much bend in it.
maybe try letting clutch adjust out until you have lots of pedal free play then back
just enough to still have 25-30mm free play.
or maybe gear selector gate at gear stick is way out and needs re adjustment?

jamiesc Wolfsburg Wizard

559 posts · joined Dec 2010 ·

#878886
cesiumfrog wrote:did you put in a new bowden tube? maybe too little or too much bend in it.
maybe try letting clutch adjust out until you have lots of pedal free play then back
just enough to still have 25-30mm free play.
or maybe gear selector gate at gear stick is way out and needs re adjustment?
no i havnt put a new bowden tube in yet and i was just reading about the bowden bend im not 100% of it its bent but ill check and yeah i had previously ajusted it one click at a time and it came good the went the way it was befor and how would i adjust the gear selector ?

could it also be cause if i have a bad shifter?

psimitar Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,506 posts · joined Jan 2009 ·

#878896
If it jumps outta gear that a g/box problem with the synchros. That means a rebuilt/new box.

If it's hard to get in gear you need to check how good the platic bush in the tunnel behind the lever is plus the rear coupling. Too much play in these will mean poor shifting.

Once they are in good condition you can adjust the plate under the gearstick housing as per the manual.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍

jamiesc Wolfsburg Wizard

559 posts · joined Dec 2010 ·

#878898
psimitar wrote:If it jumps outta gear that a g/box problem with the synchros. That means a rebuilt/new box.

If it's hard to get in gear you need to check how good the platic bush in the tunnel behind the lever is plus the rear coupling. Too much play in these will mean poor shifting.

Once they are in good condition you can adjust the plate under the gearstick housing as per the manual.
did you mean the bowden tube or the bush kit in the clutch for if you mean in the clutch fork there brand new psimitar

psimitar Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,506 posts · joined Jan 2009 ·

#878911
No no. On the gearstick it connects to a rod inside the floorpan centre spine. Just behind the gearstick is a support bracket that has a plastic bush for the gearstick rod to slide within and then at the rear of the floorpan spine is an inspection cover, under the rear seat, that allow access to the rear gear coupling. This has stiff rubber bushes in too but over time the rear coupling rubbers and the front plastic bush wear so you end up with a sloppy gearstick and difficult gear changes.

Also did you note the thickness of the clutch plate when the engine was out the car? If your clutch is low then even properly adjusted you will find it harder to select gears.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍

Aussie Dubbin Fahrvergnugen

895 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#878938
Replace bushing near gearstick. Clean grease and tighten rear shift rod bushing. New genuine Bowden tube and reset the gearstick mount once all replaced. Should be fine keep going
'68 BUG build(Racing)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85509
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http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88798
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http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88799&page=1#pid826884

jamiesc Wolfsburg Wizard

559 posts · joined Dec 2010 ·

#879666
okay so i had a proper look today and am going to space my bowden tube a little more but i could find my rear shift rod bushing kinda
is a bugger cause each time i look at it i cant drive it hope i can sort it out soon

thanks for the help everybody
cheers jamie

dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome

5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·

#879710
The gear shift coupling and plastic bush in the tunnel (near the stick),
are areas that should be replaced as a matter of maintenance over time,
but since you have replaced the parts in the clutch fork area, my guess is that this is where you should be looking.

Your symptom of difficulty with reverse and 1st/2nd, are normally associated with the clutch not disengaging.

This can be adjustment in either direction.
If the diafragm fingers are hitting on the disc when the pedal is fully depressed,
you need to back off the adjustment nut/wing nut.

but in usual instances, the adjustment needs to be wound up to let the pressure plate disengage from the disc.

Also you mention replacing the clutch pressure plate and fork?

Make sure the pressure plate is the correct one for your throw out bearing model,
and that your "new fork and bush" are not the crap quality ones that allow the bush to squeeze out,
and position the throw out bearing off centre.

Original VW parts in this area when ever possible!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.

jamiesc Wolfsburg Wizard

559 posts · joined Dec 2010 ·

#879799
dangerous wrote:The gear shift coupling and plastic bush in the tunnel (near the stick),
are areas that should be replaced as a matter of maintenance over time,
but since you have replaced the parts in the clutch fork area, my guess is that this is where you should be looking.

Your symptom of difficulty with reverse and 1st/2nd, are normally associated with the clutch not disengaging.

This can be adjustment in either direction.
If the diafragm fingers are hitting on the disc when the pedal is fully depressed,
you need to back off the adjustment nut/wing nut.

but in usual instances, the adjustment needs to be wound up to let the pressure plate disengage from the disc.

Also you mention replacing the clutch pressure plate and fork?

Make sure the pressure plate is the correct one for your throw out bearing model,
and that your "new fork and bush" are not the crap quality ones that allow the bush to squeeze out,
and position the throw out bearing off centre.

Original VW parts in this area when ever possible!!

thanks dangerous i woke up nice and bright this morning and found out someone made an inspection plate above where the clutch cable clips on to the clutch and it was the outter tube the welds were broken up the front and back and the outter tube was pushed about 5 cm to the front of the car and i got my uncle to weld the tube back into place and for free of charge he even welded a crack that i had in the guard up and got bog over it and under coast i will paint it tomorrow this made my day now she is running beautiful no shutter anymore or gear changing problems

cheers for the help jamie