Hi everyone
ok so here is the deal the URALLA (yeaha) mower races are come up soon
and im after a few new ideas
im not sure where to start last year i tryed a few thing some work and some didn't so has anyone done mower racing and got any tips for me??
a few things im thinking of
lowring the mower and making the front end wider
lowing the seat ...oh yeah making the seat softer(bad back)
uping the pulley size again
i had been think about welding the diff to make it stronger but i know it going to hurt the turning
i need good ideas and most people on here are very good at problem solving
any help would be great!!!!
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LMAO 😀
didn't see that coming
here is a vid of the last races
i finished 3 am the night before and tested 1 hour before the race
and the biggest prob was the wrong belt A 81 (to big)
a 80 (to small)
the next pulley im getting are B pulleys and sloting the engine mounts so i can get it just right
well there was two red ones, if you were on the one with white wheels then it's in the bag bloke, obviously going lightweight isn't much help unless that fella was just giving the snails a chance to get out of his way, maybe get a lighter driver. 😀 shit, how am I guna sleep while I'm still laughn me arse off. 🙅 did I see a bit of negative camber on the front? 😂
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
the thing it everyone else has been working on the mowers all year!!!!
one bloke even is running a new 25 hp b&s and solid axle and geared it right up
im still running the stock 11 hp 🙂 most others are 12 - 15 which i dont care
im just trying to come up with somthing that no one will do
negative camber ...oh yeah way to much by the time i put the wheels on lol
my suggestions for something different. a) supercharger it.
b) twin engines
c) vw engine with a chain drive 🙂 or bolt the wheels to the output flanges on an irs gearbox 😀
RISKY4LIFE wrote:LMAO the red one
but it's wild to ride corners like shit way to top heavy
breakes don't do anything and if you fall off 😊 it just keeps going
Hang on? when was the race? or is this the fastest they went?
I seen mower racing few years back on SBS speed week shows and this sport is big in the UK but the mower do 50-60km/h.
man these guys would put this to shame.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
my suggestions for something different. a) supercharger it.
b) twin engines
c) vw engine with a chain drive 🙂 or bolt the wheels to the output flanges on an irs gearbox 😀
LMAO i was staying the same thing with aircooled and a 1600
but we are trying to keep it mower engines lots of "racing mower" run quard bike engines quad bike handle bars quard bike suspension etc
so there no so much mowers anymore
RISKY4LIFE wrote:LMAO the red one
but it's wild to ride corners like shit way to top heavy
breakes don't do anything and if you fall off 😊 it just keeps going
Hang on? when was the race? or is this the fastest they went?
I seen mower racing few years back on SBS speed week shows and this sport is big in the UK but the mower do 50-60km/h.
man these guys would put this to shame.
the mower races are on every year at the uralla show 4 feb so the vids are from last year and now the clock it ticking down so i have to get a start and im going to build another one as well that will do big wheelies 🙂
I did this sort of thing to a rover mower with a B&S 8hp engine.
I ported the block and made my own exhaust, then removed the governor.
went like a shower of shit! till it threw a rod!
that thing was dangerous as it would wheelie 90o soon as you engaged the gear (my brother nearly broke his wrist on the first go) and it would also smoke the tires when you put the front against something 😂
Before it blew the exhaust was glowing almost yellow.
My conclusion was I needed a honda engine as B&S are pos. 😂
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
lol thats the weak spot the rod and as soon as you remove the governor it will only last minutes
next year i will be rebuilding my engine and im looking for a tuff rod (lol)
maybe this will work?? with a stock one????
here is where im upto 6 days to go now
RISKY4LIFE wrote:lol thats the weak spot the rod and as soon as you remove the governor it will only last minutes
next year i will be rebuilding my engine and im looking for a tuff rod (lol)
maybe this will work?? with a stock one????
here is where im upto 6 days to go now
with the B & S engine poor lubrication and oil burn due to poor bore, piston and ring design is the problem. Actually the whole engine is garbage. No bearing or sacrificual wear surfaces at all in the older engines
They only been doing cast iron bores in the last 10 years or so but still don't have bearing as far as I know.
honda engines on the other hand are built very well. I would get a hoda for your mower 👍
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Hey Mr Bags
all went well got to bed at 3:30 the night before again 🙁 and back up at 7 (felt like Warwick all over again)
most of the other fast mower broke down so there was nothing good for me to race
an air cooled mower hey well i have not seen many water cooled Victa's 🤓
i still use a push mower to do about 1/2 acre and do more whipper snipping than most people do mowing
but some of the pic's of the vw mower are so cool ...maybe make one?
Yes, VW aircooled, and stuff using a push mower for 3 acres! Making one is always an option, but buying one is a better one with all the other poor dubs waiting for love. Need to buy a mower but there is some what a better element of cool with some of those projects pictured than a boring old Victa mower 😉
1963 Single Cab Ute: "El Concreto"
1962 Baja Beetle: "Peanut"
1968 Porsche 912 SWB: "Pip"
1972 Kombi Snail: "The Snail"
2012 Skoda Octavia Scout: "Scout"
2016 Scirocco R: "Rocco"
we also have about 2 acres that i would have to mowe but we have some alpacas that take care of that for me other wise i would need to spend about 4 - 5 k on a ride-on and have to mowe the dam thing so the cheap way ... find something that will eat the grass !!
