Hi Guys,
If you were going to stitch weld your forks, would you use gas or a mig.
Which would have the least impact on the paint on the inside of the tubes?
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
i fully welded mine @ around 21-22volts but only around 7amps with 0.9 wire, using a mig.
( i cut quit a lot out of the insides though and all down hand welds.)
if i had the body on the pan i would have tig welded it though.
you can always put some fish oil / paint down the horn via the gearbox bolts after anyway if your worried about rust forming,
Nathan
Why are you welding the forks? They need bracing, more so than welding.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
i heard somewhere some time ago, under extream power and stress levels they will split the join???
Happy daze is right though, if you dont need to dont. Adding heat there will also make the horns more britle thus brake in long run.
What methods are the to make the horns more ridged?????
Nathan
stitching adds some extra rigidity but not that much if you pound the forks alot.
You need a 5 bar kafer/torque bar setup. Craig Torrens sells then on here. IMO the 3 bar ain't worth it cos you are just loading up the shock absorber fork. Giving the fork the extra bars makes for a much stronger rear end that you can hammer all day long.
you can make it yourself from thickwall steel tube and 8mm steel plate or buy the crappier ones from CSP or the yank suppliers.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Thanks Guys.
Extra support it will be.
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
Newt wrote:Thanks Guys.
Extra support it will be.
Cheers
Newt
👍👍Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
I've always wanted to weld a right angle piece on to the fork to strengthen it
and pretty much box it up from underside of the fork with thicker steel
because I'm barbaric and too cheap tp buy 5 link support.
but even if u do the 5 link u still got to weld a tab on the fork
idk
If you are too cheap to buy a 5 link, MAKE YOUR OWN.......it will be much more effective, and much prettier.👍
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
narumi wrote:I've always wanted to weld a right angle piece on to the fork to strengthen it
and pretty much box it up from underside of the fork with thicker steel
because I'm barbaric and too cheap tp buy 5 link support.
but even if u do the 5 link u still got to weld a tab on the fork
idk
You NEED to triangulate the frameforks to get strength into them as only thickwall tubing or box has a chance of withstanding the forces the forks put up with.
Some 30 or 40mm thickwall steel tube and 8mm plate will be all you really need to make your own 5 link. A few short length of 11mm ID thickwall tube for the top shox bolt and a extra long high tensile bolt for the top shox and you are good
🙂madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
here is what i did
if i have the money i wound buy the lovely 5 bar setup
make sure the rear gearbox mount is in place before welding
so how and where do the forks fail when they do? Any one got a photo of a set that have twisted or bent? (just wondering thats all)
Nathan
toey1984 wrote:so how and where do the forks fail when they do? Any one got a photo of a set that have twisted or bent? (just wondering thats all)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=87624
Here's what happened to mine a year or so back.
I have the fix in my build diary, there is a link to the page near the bottom of that thread.
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
RISKY4LIFE wrote:here is what i did
if i have the money i wound buy the lovely 5 bar setup
make sure the rear gearbox mount is in place before welding
Don't weld it in like the pic if it's a swing-axle.
😂😂Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
thanks smiley, pics help to see where and how they fail.
might sound dumb but would this work..
Put a 7mm cut full length of the forks on top and 8 odd 20mm slots on bottom
Shape some 6mm plate into the forks and plug the bottom and fully weld the top. Grind back smooth and then add a 3-5 point brace???
Nathan
It's the engine/transmission lump that needs extra support. If the mounting points are braced correctly [3 or better still 5 bar], then what you are planning will not be necessary. All that will do is add extra weight at the back, which is not good for handling. The money you save on cutting discs and band-aids will just about pay for the bars.👍
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
HappyDaze wrote:It's the engine/transmission lump that needs extra support. If the mounting points are braced correctly [3 or better still 5 bar], then what you are planning will not be necessary. All that will do is add extra weight at the back, which is not good for handling. The money you save on cutting discs and band-aids will just about pay for the bars.👍
x2, a good truss will do all that is required. without adding much weight
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
