I have never had a good reading from my fuel guage in our S bug. It read anywhere from way over the full mark on the gauge to just over half a tank when empty (ask me how I found that out 😂)
I bought an NOS sender and an NOS vibrator to try and sort it out. I checked the new sender and adjusted the tabs so it read 10 ohms when full and 70 ohms when empty. I fitted that and checked the reading on the gauge. For the first time it read under half full but it was only just over empty on the guage yet I could see fuel in the tank when I swapped the senders.
I then fitted the new sender and the reading went to about halfway between 1/4 and 1/2 tank. After I went to the servo and filled up, the tank took 25.6 litres which is just about where it should have been for the reading. After starting up, the guage sat right in the full mark on the guage.
Finally a fuel gauge that is accurate 😎
Yogie
where did you get them from??
mine i fill to overflowing and it reads 1/2 full
Not brave enough (or stoopid) to drive till I run out
I only get about 150kms before it is in orangae
Futue te ipsum!!!
Barry, try running an extra earth to the sender.
Mine used to only go to 3/4 when full and I ran out midway through Reserve.
I ran a new earth to the sender and the fuel gauge stabilisor screw and now it goes almost all the way to full and I've ran it to midway through Reserve and filled up I had 6 Litres left.
I had to add an earth wire to my tank sender too...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Mine already had an earth wire as part of the set up but they still didn't read accurately. Both the sender and vibrator were new aftermarket ones and earthed properly but never worked. I bought these ones from guys on Samba. One was in the UK (vibrator) and the other the USA (sender). Keep an eye out as there will probably be more listed at some time.
Yogie
68AutoBug wrote:I had to add an earth wire to my tank sender too...
LEE
That is actually a good idea! I'll keep that in mind
They would have poor earthing with the paint on the tank.
Thanks Lee
👍
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:68AutoBug wrote:I had to add an earth wire to my tank sender too...
LEE
That is actually a good idea! I'll keep that in mind
They would have poor earthing with the paint on the tank.
Thanks Lee
👍
Mine didn't work at all
that's what I put it down to Vlad, as the tank was painted plus the body plus the tank clamps..
and I sat the tank on blutac so it wasn't touching the body either... lol
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
NOS Parts,,
I just received an NOS gearshifter lock out plate for a semi auto beetle from the USA...
I also bought an NOS set of auto starter motor brushes from the USA..
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
vlad01 wrote:68AutoBug wrote:I had to add an earth wire to my tank sender too...
LEE
That is actually a good idea! I'll keep that in mind
They would have poor earthing with the paint on the tank.
Thanks Lee
👍
the only way they can really earth out is thru the bolts holding the tank in... but although My screws are new zinc plated ones the plates holding the tank are painted.. so no contact there...
plus the tank is painted.. so no contact there... lol
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Poor earth due to the paint is the usual culprit.
I connected a wire to the fuel sender by clamping it under one of the 6 (or eight? i forget) fuel sender screws. You then have a direct metal-on-metal contact. Just place the other end anywhere on the body metal. i believe i have mine on the headlight earth screw point.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
NOS can also stand for Nasty Old Shit!!🥲
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous 🥷
empi wrote:NOS can also stand for Nasty Old Shit!!🥲
NOS rubber parts can be too hard to use after sitting for 40 years the rubber goes hard and can be brittle or non flexible..
so can be un-useable..
otherwise they can be a part no longer available like a steel reverse lock out plate for a semi automatic beetle.. which I bought from the USA last year...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
empi wrote:NOS can also stand for Nasty Old Shit!!🥲
yes thats true. I had picked up some NOS parts that were terrible condition. Very hard to tell from pictures some times.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
