I had an issue with my Kadrons recently so I put a kit through them...
About the only thing I couldnt disassemble Were the fuel nozzle brass tube (red tube) and the whichever Is under the green arrow .
After putting it back together after a good clean fuel is still not coming through - there was a fair bit of crud in the bottom of the bowls and the jets were blocked but this brass tube was she only thing I didn't pall apart for fear of braking it.
Any ideas (sorry for rushed message - am juggling kiddies tea time) but would like some suggestions so. Can have another go tomorrow.
Cheers
Peter
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By the look of the carby it will need to be soaked in carb cleaner, it would be a good idea to remove the accelerator pump nozzle, on mine it is held in with a brass sleave at the base of the tube, you can gently twist them out with a pair of pliars, make sure the ball in the accelerator circut is not jammed open with gunk other wise the pump will not work, soak them over night. check out this site for a detailed expalnation.
http://kaddieshack.com/kadron_rebuilding_instructions.htmlGrab a pair of pliers and grab the accelerator pump nozzle where it enters the carb and twist and pull back and forth til it pops out. Be careful there should be a tiny ballbearing under there. If the ball is gunked up spray it with carb cleaner to get it loose and clean it. This ball is needed for proper fuel flow through the nozzle. If it's missing the carb won't operate correctly either (I just had this problem with my carbs). My guess is that ball is why your carb is not squirting. Make sure to spray carb cleaner through the nozzle as well as it may be gunked up too.
Cheers lads, the photo was taken when I pulled it apart and after a soaking and polish with the dremmel it looks like new now.
I snuck back in the garage and pulled the accellerator pump nozzle off as instructed and sure enough it was clogged so ran some air through it and unblocked it. The ball was in place - I reassembled it and pumped the gas and fuel is flowing nicely now.. I wasnt game to start it tonight for fear of my princess wife turning into a dragon if the kids get woken up - but it certainly seems to have fixed the problem.
I will fire it up in the morning and then repeat the process with the other carb for completeness.
Cheers
Peter
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the green arrow is the air correction jet and the emulsion tube is under this. Should have a flat blade slot in the top of the jet for dismantling but a good squirting with the plastic tube of the carb cleaner aerosol normally is enough to clean it up nicely.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Whilst it is running better than it was - it still isnt right. About the only thing that I didnt strip down was the air correction jet and emulsion tube - I ran cleaner and air through them and they werent clogged (there wasnt a slot in the top so I couldnt figure how to get that apart - but obviously it must)
The engine will not start without spraying some fuel down the carbs - then it fires up and runs and once warmed up revs really well and will sit and idle BUT has big flat spots and the fuel doesnt flow continuous through the accellerator pump nozzle when at throttle and appears to come through the air correction jet.
I thought I had all the old fuel out of it, but probably was a few litres mixed in so I have just drained the whole system before I embark on my next problem solving adventure.
I will have a look at the ignition system next to make sure that is fine - but I really feel that it is fuel related. The left carby prior to my cleaning was flowing the fuel smoothly through the accellerator pump nozzle whilst the right one wasnt at all. Now they are both doing the same.
I put the old needle and seats back in, as after reading a bit someone had mentioned that the new kits sometimes had to be shimmed - but that didnt change anything.
I run an electric fuel pump and it doesnt have a fuel pressure regulator - the pump appears to be pumping fine - I tried to go back to a mechanical pump to see if that was the problem but it fowls on the accellerator linkage.
Any suggestions ?
Peter
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the fuel pressure could be excessive if it doesn't have a regulator
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but what works against this pressure theory is prior to the cleansing you could blip the trottle with engine off and still get stream of fuel through left carbie - with fuel on or off I get nothin on either noe - and the fuel pump wasnt previously as issue.. so that shouldnt be a pressure issue.
i will get one if cant find an answer.
cheers
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You can usually tell if they are flooding..
I always can even when driving, I used to turn My electric pump on & off... lol
If they were flooding , You just have a wide open throttle to start... plenty of air..
I think its the accelerator pump ball valve which can get stuck with old fuel...??
strange it will start with fuel added to the carby throat and idles/??
so, when You start it after pumping the carby at least once there should be enough fuel to start...
and pumping once uses the accelerator pump...
sounds like a fuel problem..
or could be a blocked accelerator pump pipe [jet]
I believe they just push in...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Disconnect the battery for safety reasons, and take the tops of the carbs. Blip the throttle a few times with fuel in the carbs and see if it sprays fuel out the nozzles. If not then you have a blockage and will have to strip down the carbs again including the parts you didn't remove previously. Did you see the check balls you when you removed the accelerator pump nozzle? If they're missing that could be your problem. If they're stuck from being old and unused that could be your problem.
Kadrons like 1.5-2psi fuel pressure so you'll need to regulate it to that spec. Just clean every nook, cranny, nozzle and jet of the carbs and put a bit of fuel in the carbs and make sure it squirts down the throat nice and clean before bolting them back on to the engine. Did you follow this detailed rebuild/cleaning tutorial:
http://kaddieshack.com/kadron_rebuilding_instructions.htmlYep will strip them down and yep had followed the tutorial- I have done it a few times now so only takes a couple of minutes. Yes the check balls were in place and I blew air through everything ensuring there werent any blockages..
I will put a regulator on but I cant see how that will change things when it should spray with the carbs off..
Cheers
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If you have a dremel then you can use a cutting disc to make a slot in the air correction jet to see if it'll unscrew.
I think you should buy enough cleaner to make a bath for both the carbs to sit submerged for a day to make sure any and all crud is dissolved. Those internal ball bearings can be a real nuisance to get working properly again as the old fuel tarnish makes them stick.
Double check the condition of the idle mixture screw as if it don't seat properly you get a air leak that gives all sorts of problems.
Flatspots can have a lot to do with the emulsion tube as the holes in the tube relate to how much air is emulsified into the fuel at a given engine speed BUT before going there you need to have the engine so it starts without needing a hand and idles smoothly and revs cleanly with no load on the engine.
Once you get to that stage then it makes it easier to access where the flatspot is being caused.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
BrisDubba wrote:Yep will strip them down and yep had followed the tutorial- I have done it a few times now so only takes a couple of minutes. Yes the check balls were in place and I blew air through everything ensuring there werent any blockages..
I will put a regulator on but I cant see how that will change things when it should spray with the carbs off..
Cheers
Yes if You have fuel in the carby, pushing the throttle should make the accelerator pump work until the carby runs out of fuel.
plus if they are flooding from the needle and seat leaking
You should smell the petrol and can see it flowing into the engine... [LED torch]
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Look to have found the problem - there s a small sliding float/pin - (apparently there is sometimes another ball bearing in this location but mine had the pin setup) in the bottom of the fuel bowl (sorry for non technical name) but that was blocked on both and required bit of work to free up - but now it is pumping freely like it should so all should be good when I instal them.
I will advise but ll is looking good - thanks all n thanks h for putting me on to trev who fixed th issue in a jiffy.
Peter
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good to hear 👍 no problem
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