steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
2 attachments · Log in to view
1975 kombi camper
1976 kombi panel van
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
2 attachments · Log in to view
HappyDaze Superannuated
2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
1 attachment · Log in to view
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
The vanes aren't worn that bad.The original rotors are quite soft,as they are a cast alloy.The rotor is not cracked but is rooted as you said.HappyDaze wrote:The vanes must have worn away quite a lot, to get that sort of wear on the rotor. Maybe had the wrong [or no] oil, also.
Is that a crack between the slots? If so, the rotor's rooted.....sounds like that place in NZ.
vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday
16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
HappyDaze Superannuated
2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
Have forgotten grade ,i went to a aluminium suppler and told him what i was going and the said this is the best grade for machining(it is not 6061 i think it was 5 something)But will be a lot better than original.HappyDaze wrote:Looks like you have things under control, Steve. What grade of aluminium are you using? See if you can get a 'radius' in the bottom of the slots, when milling them.
vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday
16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
The slots have already been machined oversize with thicker vanes.matberry wrote:What about remachining the slots and putting in spacers or thicker rotors. ??
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
I have also purchased parts from george.vw54 wrote:Honestly i wouldnt worry about that one Mine are similar in wear and still work Good
I have purchased a few items from George F in Ney York hes really good and easy to work with for the parts you need
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday
16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
What questions do i ask? Iam going to make a new rotor and shaft because mine is worn out. Tell me how please?vw54 wrote:Its NOT meant to be removed the steel shaft has tangs on it to stop the alloy section from mooving
its cast as one piece when being made
Please ask questions before you do any more damage
HappyDaze Superannuated
2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·
vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday
16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
waltermitty Legend when my beer goggles are on
1,993 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
The rotor has already been machined for wider vanes.I think i have already stated that.vw54 wrote:yes well the hard bit will be keeping the shaft n rotor together
It would be good if you could get a lump of alloy cast onto the old shaft and machine up a new rotor
Interest to know if the OD of the old rotor has varied or still concentric ( so just the slot has worn )
May be easier to mill the slot wider and obtain thicker bakelite material for the new vanes
Ive been fiddling with these since 1984 or so
20bkombi Wolfsburg Wizard
597 posts · joined Mar 2009 ·
vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday
16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
Thanks vw54 yes have read it inside out,
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
Hi Aaron ,I enjoyed our chat at Warwick and it was nice to meet you.20bkombi wrote:Hi Steve, it was nice to meet you at Warwick, will have to catch up and chat again soon.
Any pics of the new rotor and shaft??
Are you going to cut the new vein slots after pressing the shaft in?
Aaron
HappyDaze Superannuated
2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
2 attachments · Log in to view
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
Hi Greg,Thanks for the input,yes i will be going for a interference fit.Heat the rotor in the oven,shaft in the freezer and then heat the rotor with mapp gas to get it hotter and then if it does not fit ,remove .001" of shaft until it will fit.This may seem long winded but i have only a digatal caliper which isn't that accurate when talking .0005" Will let you know how it goes.HappyDaze wrote:Steve, I assume you have in mind some form of 'keying' of the shaft & rotor? Perhaps you could also bore the rotor under-size, to provide an interference fit. Leave the shaft in the freezer for a while, and heat the rotor in the oven [200c?] before pressing together. There are people around [Dangerous?] who could help with precise dimensions, etc.
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
3 attachments · Log in to view
NUG637 Officially Full-On Dubber
372 posts · joined Nov 2009 ·
farkengruven Seriously Crusin Dubber
167 posts · joined Jan 2006 ·
steve burgess Slammed & Awesome Dubber
92 posts · joined May 2011 ·
I am hoping the interference fit will be enough,if done right.There is not much of a load put on it.It is only 36hp remember,but if anyone has ideas how to pin it to the shaft let me know.Thanks for the supportfarkengruven wrote:Good luck with your project.
What is going to prevent the rotor from sliding/moving on the shaft when the finished product is in the Judson and actually working on the road? Just the interference fit?
Is it worth pinning the rotor to the shaft, so it cannot move in any direction?