Okay, first up i,ve been a little slack in not posting up what Larry and i have been doing for the last 6 months.
As some of you will already know i havn,t raced since Bathurst in April, i was not happy with the cars performance after a xmas recam and freshen.
I took the engine down to Larrys in late April and after a tear down and inspection all looked spot on, but my backside dyno just wasn,t happy😂
The conversation wen,t from lets put it back together as is, to recam again, to well, you guys know how it works.
After a couple of months and strict money saving i had a box with all the good exciting go fast bits which included, DPR crank, Wiseco Pistons, Engle cam, Dave Butler machined and lightened flywheel a set of Larrry special new cylinders, new rings, bearing seals etc.
Larry went to work machining the case, cleaning up the heads before assembling the engine and running in the cam.
I installed the engine 2 weeks ago and today had my mate Allan fron Muffler Fit and Fix make me up a new muffler.
I wanted a longer head pipe inbetween the collector and the muffler to carry more exhaust pulses and therefore help with increased torque. Well thats the theory.
I need to paint it up yet but Allan did a top job of tucking the muffler under the rear apron for max ground clearance.
So here she is, my new 1999cc Hillclimb combo.
I made some phone calls about getting my new muffler set up hpc coated.
Worked out to be approx $200.00 including freight to Newcastle.
I had a think and ended up buying a tin of VHT Engine enamel, this stuff is rated up to 350 celsius. You can also buy VHT Flame proff which is rated to over 1000 celcius.
While it,s not as good as hpc coating i,m happy with the final finish, and the cost $16.00.
Finished of the project with stainless steel socket head screws and nylocs.
Started up the car and heated up the system to cure the paint, now all done and ready for a dyno tune.
cnfabo wrote:Col, what cam did you end up going with.didnt like the pauter cam?
Pauter Cam is sitting in Larrys shed along with all the other parts we have tried over the years.
Probably got enough for another engine.
Because we have now increased the stroke, this opens the door for a larger cam.
Chose a old favourite, genuine Engle FK87. With my berg rockers and Street Elims the total lift calculated out at .610.
Quite big lift, but the stroke and close ratio box i use should cope nicely😏
Purchased a new set of Uni Filter socks, or as some people call them pods, for the carbs on the weekend.
First thing i did was wash all the oil out of them. I don,t recommend doing this with a street engine application but for me it lets the socks flow more air which on a prevoius dyno tune equaled another 4 hp.👍
Cheers Col
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Craig Torrens wrote:wow you must have had a lot of oil in them to gain 4hp !
Roll top velocity stacks will give you a gain too.......so might be worth changing to those as well 👍
When I was dyno tuning mine there was no HP gain when I removed the air cleaners.......BUT.....I don't use the socks, just the K&N oval style.
Thats really interesting,
The socks dry, made a big difference on my engine. I also dyno tuned the car with large roll type trumpets for a zero hp gain.
Just goes to show that all engines are a little different in some small ways.
I love learning and experimenting to gain that extra 1%.👍
Cheers Col
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
colin wrote:First thing i did was wash all the oil out of them. I don,t recommend doing this with a street engine application but for me it lets the socks flow more air which on a prevoius dyno tune equaled another 4 hp.👍
Cheers Col
Hi Col
When I last had my 2275cc motor on the dyno, I took the air cleaners off & got another 2hp at the wheels & the power line was a lot smoother, no little ripples in it. Very surprising
I don't have a hp figure, but with the EFI I found when I switched from oiled Unifilter's to the K&N style ovals (fuid'd up of course) that my A/F ratios changed.
Basically leaned off right across the rev range... only very slightly, but consistently. Since air temp etc. was the same and using TPS for tuning figured the K&N's flowing more air had to be the reason.
Like they say I guess - it's all 'dem little things....
👍
btw - definitely looks the goods Col - given it a thrashing yet ???
😉
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This morning was the big day.
After Larry working his magic i took the car to my local dyno operator to tune the engine and see what all our research and hard work would amount too.
First dyno pull the so called heatproof paint blistered and finally caught on fire on my exhaust, not a good start.
After about 10 pulls from memory she spat out 146.6hp.
Very happy with the result.
Don,t take to much notice of the rpm graph on the bottom of the sheet, it,s a little out, about 800rpm.
Here,s the sheet and a link to the dyno pull.
Thats a Fantastic result Colin 👍 I only had 98hp atw (111hp with the small "bolt" pulley) when I was racing in hillclimb........so with 146hp you will slaughter them !!!
And to think, you and Larry achieved 146hp with carbs and only 4 spark plugs !! 😂😂😂
Looks like a nice engine but can someone explain how your HP figure can be accurate if your RPM figure isn't? I suppose the only dyno that matters is the track 😂
SuperOwen wrote:Looks like a nice engine but can someone explain how your HP figure can be accurate if your RPM figure isn't? I suppose the only dyno that matters is the track 😂
Those dynos usually calculate wheel power based on the roller rpm.
The engine RPM scale is normally aligned with the tach in the car,
or previous settings,
since the RPM lead for the tach point for the dyno is probably too short to reach the engine at the back.
Those are some great numbers Col and Keith!!
Well done!!
SuperOwen wrote:Looks like a nice engine but can someone explain how your HP figure can be accurate if your RPM figure isn't? I suppose the only dyno that matters is the track 😂
Those dynos usually calculate wheel power based on the roller rpm.
The engine RPM scale is normally aligned with the tach in the car,
or previous settings,
since the RPM lead for the tach point for the dyno is probably too short to reach the engine at the back.
Those are some great numbers Col and Keith!!
Well done!!
Thanks Dave, couldn,t have explained it better.
Larry and i are chuffed with the number, a few Corona,s are being sunk up here in Tamworth as i type this post.
Larry and i are allways thinking and researching idea,s and thoughts on how to squeeze more hp from our engines. It,s nice when all the hard work comes together with a good dyno number.
Larry and i are already talking about a shorter carb manifold length to extend the rpm power band, but thats in the future, for now were happy as.😊😊😊
