Help. Body off restoration - where do I start?

viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 9 Dec 2012, 11:03 am

#934952

Hello folks.
I am doing a full body off resto of my late father's 68 beetle.

I need to replace a badly rusted left rear quarter panel, inner support section of the quarter panel and a rusty section of the guard support, the rear clip and both heater channels.

I have a donor rear quarter panel including the outer and inner panel, the inner mudguard almost back to the bumper bracket.

In what order should I replace them whilst trying to maintain body alignment. The body is up on a dolly, but it is sagging a bit at the left side door. I am worried when I start working that I won't be able to maintain body alignment.

Do I do the heater channels first. the clip or the quarter panel. Yes I know the heater channel has to attach to the rear quarter.

Should I try and replace the entire inner and outer quarter panel in one piece or should I try to only take away the damaged bits i.e. cut out the bad stuff. This would mean I would have to cut the inner mudguard at the outer edge to join up to the inner part which is still in good nick.

viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 9 Dec 2012, 11:09 am

#934953

I guess this might make it easier. Should I cut out the outer bit and butt weld it together or should I remove the entire inner mudguard and replace with the donor.

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viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 9 Dec 2012, 11:29 am

#934955

This is the donor section

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LUFTMEISTER Veteran Volks Folk

2,041 posts · joined Jul 2005 · 9 Dec 2012, 2:23 pm

#934964

Sorry🙁 but you should have welded in bracing (across doorways and side to side) before removing body from pan, otherwise you will not be able to get correct alignment without a factory assembly jig.My2c

Customer service is not dead in Australia.

Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 9 Dec 2012, 5:28 pm

#934989

I would be sending the bare shel to be dipped or blasted to remove paint and determine the rest of the body rust

if it has rust there then there will be lots more

it might be beter to find a better body shell

I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

zayus Wolfsburg Wizard

437 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 10 Dec 2012, 6:24 pm

#935144

it might be beter to find a better body shell

Then it wouldn't be Viiking's Dad's Beetle

viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 10 Dec 2012, 6:36 pm

#935147

zayus wrote:
it might be beter to find a better body shell
Then it wouldn't be Viiking's Dad's Beetle

Thanks zayus. You understand.

This car means a lot to me and it will be a labour of love, not a quick paint and flog off to make a quid.

viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 18 Dec 2012, 9:01 am

#936069

Anybody know the order I should do it?

Also does anyone know whether the bolt on door frame braces (like you see on Bug Me Videos) are available here? Or alternatively the correct pillar to pillar dimensions?

empi Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,131 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 18 Dec 2012, 10:15 am

#936080

send the car to the blasters then assess, looks like the car has alot of paint etc on it already.

"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous 🥷

empi Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,131 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 18 Dec 2012, 10:22 am

#936081

body to pan is only 36 bolts, steering colum to beam, few wires to be disconnected before u can take body off, 36 bolts..... most of which will be rusty as hell and snap when trying to get them out!! wd40 them LOTS!!!! at least 24hrs before attempting to remove. Beetle i wouldnt be too worried about bracing the doors but will help

"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous 🥷

viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 18 Dec 2012, 5:33 pm

#936120

Thanks. I have had body off for some time now. I wasn't sure in what order I tackle the replacement sections.

Do I try to weld in the new quarter panel inner and outer? Or do I replace the rear cross members under the back seat? Or do I do the heater channels first then weld in the quarterr panel. Or doesn't it matter.

Then I might send it off to the blasters.

Do I send to sand blasters? If so how much might this cost for just the body in Sydney? Any recommendations?

Sorry for all the dumb questions.😊

Lucky Phil Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Aug 2010 · 29 Dec 2012, 11:55 am

#937384

I would seriously consider remounting the body on the pan with washers inbetween to replicate the seal.
Then remount doors to check alignments.
Then weld braces inside.
It sounds like a lot of mucking about but nothing compared to dealing with incorrect alignments afterwards.

viiking Officially Full-On Dubber

253 posts · joined May 2012 · 2 Jan 2013, 7:00 pm

#937802

Thanks Phil. I think that makes a lot of sense. I will do this and weld up braces as you suggest.