I'm after almost two cars worth or rubbers (nothback and fasty) and just wanted to know if people have bought from ISP West and how they've found them? They seem to have a good catalogue of parts and good options quality wise.... Otherwise are there any good places you can recommend buying from in Australia? several places I've approached haven't been very helpful...
Thanks.
Have you tried vintage vee dub in sydney? they have helped me with all my rubbers for my fastie.
Shipping was a bit expensive.
Did get a new type 3 front window rubber from Mick Motors before, you could try them.
http://www.mickmotors.com.au/Got a full set of exterior trim strips into NZ from ISP, very quick, great customer contact, very well packaged.
Postage is costly but most of these parts are not available locally, maybe look at buying a few parts to sell to cover postage cost?
I've bought from them (it was a few years ago) but they were great, good service and when I did have an issue, they seemed ok to get it resolved.
I would buy from them again
Cheers
D
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm in contact with the vintage vee dub boys and they sound like they've got their shit together. They can guarentee quality of components and seem happy to deal with any issues that might arise. They've made it clear that they'll be more expensive than anything from OS but they might come close once you factor in postage etc. I'll persue the Aus option for now and see how it goes...
I have had pretty good experience with them.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
I have bought from them , all seemed to good, quite a lot off type 3 stuff from CIP1 is VWISP WEST stuff.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous 🥷
if you go onto the samba there are cheaper places to get rubbers from (just do a search in classifieds )than isp as there shipping is expensive .
just be carefull of non genuine door rubbers as they are pretty poor
ISP are the only to manufacture proper moulded window seals for type 3 and their doors seals are the best quality aftermarket door seals you can get, although not 100% perfect.
Don't bother getting the original German ones, you won't be able to close the door unless you are prepared to slam it til the door breaks. The German ones are expensive and don't work due to their hardness from aging.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Hey thanks for the tip Vlad. Any tips on gluing the door seals to the door? I'm currently stripping the doors and the seals are well stuck. Should I fit the seal dry then apply the glue and while wet and slippery push it all the way home, working my way around? While the door is off? or should it be done while hanging and then be shut and left to dry in position? I'm keen to hear any tips/suggestions people have that'll make it easier.
best rubbers period from isp
volkaholics.net come check us out
Dubsky wrote:Hey thanks for the tip Vlad. Any tips on gluing the door seals to the door? I'm currently stripping the doors and the seals are well stuck. Should I fit the seal dry then apply the glue and while wet and slippery push it all the way home, working my way around? While the door is off? or should it be done while hanging and then be shut and left to dry in position? I'm keen to hear any tips/suggestions people have that'll make it easier.
TAC adhesives brush contact 205.
test fit it first to make sure, mine fit perfect regardless.
Brush a light coat on the seal, let it dry til just tacky, then put it on. you want a few hands holding up the seal as you place it on bit at a time, once it touches the door, you'll rip the seal trying to get it off.
That glue is bloody strong. I have used selley's contact glue but found it always falling off after some time, its crap. TAC 205 won't ever come off without ripping the seal.
joining the seal to the door while the glue is wet don't work to well for the adhesion, also the thinners in the glue could do harm to the paint?
You could also try taping the seal in place but up off the final place by few cm enough for you to brush on the glue under it, then drop the seal down in place.
if you do it that way be careful getting glue on the door between the seal and gluing it in the wrong place
😂
Remember, thin coat of the glue is key to a clean and strong install of the seal.
The glue is made in Dandenong, Melbourne and can be bought at most motor trimming suppliers.
make sure the door surface for the seal is clean, i use wax and grease remover.
here is a test fit of mine on an old door.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
before going overseas try some of your car rubber companys .
i got all my widow rubbers from old rubber co (new old stock)
all up cost under $100 for all windows and fit perfect (cal look).
all my body rubbers come from west coast metric (cheaper than isp at the time not sure now)and alot cheaper shipping
isp isn't the only place that does rubbers and have seen some crap rubbers come from them
vlad01 wrote:ISP are the only to manufacture proper moulded window seals for type 3 and their doors seals are the best quality aftermarket door seals you can get, although not 100% perfect.
Don't bother getting the original German ones, you won't be able to close the door unless you are prepared to slam it til the door breaks. The German ones are expensive and don't work due to their hardness from aging.
german door rubers are the best period
they closed perfectly on all 4 of my type 3,s i have had then on
you must not know how to put them on or they where not original vw
Thanks again Vlad for your advice.I use contact glue at work and most of the brands recommend glue to both surfaces, let tack then contact to form the bond.for a weaker bond they say you can press together while the glue is wet. is this the same with the 205? The only issue I see is that the seals seem so tight that the glue would bond before being pushed all the way in.it's hard for me to imagine how one could push a tacky seal in place with the deep groove it fits into! Would have to make a pushing tool at least. Are the replacement seals you're using one continuous profile? The originals I've taken off were not a continuous profile and ever had to plastic clips in the middle of the seal above the upper door hinge.
Damo99 - Do you have any tips for installing German seals?
take your time and make sure they sit right
i ,just don't rush putting them in .use a good contact cement
as i wrote in above post ,before going overseas for rubbers ,try some of the auto only rubber shops in aus (all states)as alot of them inported or made vw rubbers that they havn,t sold .
you can get some bargains if there new old stock that they think they can,t sell.
to many people think that they have to go to usa to get what they want at a good price ,
most of the time thats true . but some things you can get here cheaper,but you have to look .
Hi
I don't know about Type 3s but I never glue my door seals in on late Beetles, they just sit there.
Steve
damo99 wrote:vlad01 wrote:ISP are the only to manufacture proper moulded window seals for type 3 and their doors seals are the best quality aftermarket door seals you can get, although not 100% perfect.
Don't bother getting the original German ones, you won't be able to close the door unless you are prepared to slam it til the door breaks. The German ones are expensive and don't work due to their hardness from aging.
german door rubers are the best period
they closed perfectly on all 4 of my type 3,s i have had then on
you must not know how to put them on or they where not original vw
check out the samba on what people have said about NOS German seals, you can't expect door seals to stay supple for 40-50 years, sometime you can get lucky and find OEM vw replacement seals that are only 20-25 years old and are made from a better rubber but they are very far and few in between.
I am sure there are a few people here that can vouch on crummy old hard NOS seals.
I have bought most of the seals and rubber components on my car in NOS form, I can say only 30-40% were any good, rest were hard as rock, had shrunk and unusable.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Dubsky wrote:Thanks again Vlad for your advice.I use contact glue at work and most of the brands recommend glue to both surfaces, let tack then contact to form the bond.for a weaker bond they say you can press together while the glue is wet. is this the same with the 205? The only issue I see is that the seals seem so tight that the glue would bond before being pushed all the way in.it's hard for me to imagine how one could push a tacky seal in place with the deep groove it fits into! Would have to make a pushing tool at least. Are the replacement seals you're using one continuous profile? The originals I've taken off were not a continuous profile and ever had to plastic clips in the middle of the seal above the upper door hinge.
Damo99 - Do you have any tips for installing German seals?
the isp seals needed very little stretching, virtually none in my case.
the TAC 205 can either be both or one surface, one is suffice if the other surface is clean dry and free from wax/grease/oil and is non porous, ie. car body. If bonded fairly wet I found the bond can be separated after it drys, bond when dry but still very tacky is like it welds on. The instruction state to do so.
its by far the best stuff i have ever used and is what motor trimmers use.
I have used over 3L, nearly 4L doing the upholstery and interior, carpet of my other non VW and learned how to use it best. Its truly an excellent product and cheap for what it is.
1L is like 25 bucks? i think.
http://www.tacadhesives.com.au/products/205-brush-contact-adhesives
I use it for everything for my cars now, wouldn't consider anything else after getting on this stuff.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Thanks again mate, sound advice. I think I'll stick with ISP on the door seals as even with shipping they come in cheaper, and I really don't want the hassle of hard rubbers.
there is one potential problem with the ISP seals though, at the back (front?) of the door, where the hinges are. Some people have reported leaking there when washing the car or heavy rain. The OEM seals are different in that area, Some have said its because the ISP seals are based of the early seal where that part was thinner as the door pillar was a different shape to the later models. (2 bolt hinge doors)
I have not seen any problems with mine, but then again I have really tested water tightness and my doors are of the early 3 bolt design as all notchback retain that early door pillar and hinges among other early body parts.
if all else fails you can splice that section out of the old seal to solve that issue if you get do get that. But from what I have seen this have happen only on some cars, which could be door alignment problems, most people have had no problems installing these seals and have rated them the best of all.
here is the thread related to what I mentioned.
Also look at page 1, Anthony has tips on the installation. he is one of the main guys from ISP west who developed the seals.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=420787&start=20
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I don't know about Type 3s but I never glue my door seals in on late Beetles, they just sit there.
Steve
yes they can, although I don't think I have ever seen a type 3 with the seals not glued.
Perhaps try see if they press fit first, I know the rear around the hinges most certainly needs gluing on the ISP seals.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
For door seals Wolfsberg Automotive 1300 370 310 (Geelong) sells them by the meter, i have installed these on many cars with no issue.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous 🥷
vlad01 wrote:damo99 wrote:vlad01 wrote:ISP are the only to manufacture proper moulded window seals for type 3 and their doors seals are the best quality aftermarket door seals you can get, although not 100% perfect.
Don't bother getting the original German ones, you won't be able to close the door unless you are prepared to slam it til the door breaks. The German ones are expensive and don't work due to their hardness from aging.
german door rubers are the best period
they closed perfectly on all 4 of my type 3,s i have had then on
you must not know how to put them on or they where not original vw
check out the samba on what people have said about NOS German seals, you can't expect door seals to stay supple for 40-50 years, sometime you can get lucky and find OEM vw replacement seals that are only 20-25 years old and are made from a better rubber but they are very far and few in between.
I am sure there are a few people here that can vouch on crummy old hard NOS seals.
I have bought most of the seals and rubber components on my car in NOS form, I can say only 30-40% were any good, rest were hard as rock, had shrunk and unusable.
they still make the german door seals there not hard at all
you can by brazilian door seals on the samba for $35 us currency
just as good as the isp ones .(maybe the same )
the rubber by the metre would work just as well as the isp ones.
and in aus
german door seals cost alot over $1oo each
but depends what you want and how fussy you are
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I don't know about Type 3s but I never glue my door seals in on late Beetles, they just sit there.
Steve
beetle and type 3 are diffrent
type 3 havn't got a channell all around the door for the rubber to sit in.
if the rubbers are a god fit you don,t need glue (or very very little)
I had a really good experience with ISP West!
Ordered the rubbers on a Sunday, by Thursday was at my house in Canberra
Besser als in die hohle Hand geschissen.
'71 Type 3 Fastback
'08 WRX
'14 Golf Variant HL
Hey Alex, how's the build going? I'm about to get my body blasted... Ended up buying from ISP west and cip1 both had excellent service.
Hey Alex, how's the build going? I'm about to get my body blasted... Ended up buying from ISP west and cip1 both had excellent service.
