Has anyone had any experience with this stuff?
http://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/shineseal
Basically I had my engine case chemically cleaned and glass bead blasted recently prior to commencing the rebuild. Also bead blasted the gearbox. So now it looks like new but i was faced with the problem of how to keep it that way for as long as possible so I started a search which didn't produce many results. Anyhow the closest I got were some guys stating on forums in the us about a product called zoopseal. Tracked down the new formulation called shineseal here in Australia. They say its good to 700degrees (Fahrenheit I expect) and it makes a chemical bond but does not change the appearance like a lacquer would. Sounded just right although a little expensive.
Anyhow, just wanted to know if anyone had used it. I really just wanted it to assist with keeping dirt and grime from sticking to the cast alloy parts. To make it easier in the future to clean up and maintain a high standard of finish and clean.
The temperature is high enough so it should work but i have has no experence with the product, if it does what it says it could be good, my only reservation could be that it might interfere with heat transfere
I use and recommend Gibbs Brand. Fantastic on all metal, rubber, glass ...anything. NASA won't do an electrical connection without it as it stops dissimilar metal corrosion and magnesium loves it.
http://www.gibbsbrandaustralia.com/Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Gibbs gives magnesium a really nice patina as well. Love what it did on my block. Reminds me i have to order some more Matt
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62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
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No worries Tarin, new aerosol cans available next week. Let me know how much you want.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:No worries Tarin, new aerosol cans available next week. Let me know how much you want.
can you tell me more about it?
looking at doing a manifold and bits here and there.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Best to check out the web site. Not a paint, sort of like CRC - Armoural combo for metal 🤪
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
do you know what the car makers use at the factory?
I have some bits that are cast that never corrodes or tarnish, doesn't look like a paint or anything for the matter of fact.
That sealshine sound more like what I am looking at.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:do you know what the car makers use at the factory?
No, but I dislike putting any paint-like products on alloy, altho when I built my boat, I used a Tectyl product that looked very similar to clear anodising but I believe they don't make it any more
🙁. Think it was Tectyl 291 but not sure. May have an old tin somewhere.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:vlad01 wrote:do you know what the car makers use at the factory?
No, but I dislike putting any paint-like products on alloy, altho when I built my boat, I used a Tectyl product that looked very similar to clear anodising but I believe they don't make it any more
🙁. Think it was Tectyl 291 but not sure. May have an old tin somewhere.
I don't mind paint, but you must do it right to look and function right.
currently I clean the alloy with phosphoric acid, wash, dry.
super light coat of killrust primer (aero can is best, as its got no build) light coats of VHT caliper silver. Thats it for sandblasted alloy looks that lasts. if I want fancy gloss I go for more coat of the silver plus 2 of the caliper clear.
The kill rust primer is the key to making it last and durable, like anything wattle it works good. The VHT by itself doesn't fair as good even though they say to paint direct.
But in the end of the day if the alloy is just new and clean looking and is sealed off, that is the best.
The gibbs sounds perfect for bare metal flange like areas, eg. chassis part contact faces where paint is not allowed but rust is a problem.
How much is the gibbs?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:How much is the gibbs?
Sounds like you have a system worked out.
I use Gibbs Brand in many places but it is exceptional in and around any seam (like rain gutters and body seams) and as rubber loves it too, it's good for those rust prone area's under the seals, and chrome trims, and electrical connections, nd, and .... My magnesium Porsche fan is maintained purely by applyinging Gibbs, I take the car on the beach and without the Gibbs the fan would be white and crusty with oxidation in no time.
Cost for the 400 ml aerosol is $36.00 +gst and postage.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Sounds good. I would like to use in on wheel hubs between the disk and bracket, bearing retainers, ball joint seats etc... Those kind of places get rusty but painting is out of the question as that causes stuff to come loose.
I'll PM you when I want a can.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
how well does it work for mildly polished alloy?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Matt, Did you get my PM?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
No mate, try again, don't forget th fill out subject line. Gibbs works on any surface, polished - rough cast
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
PM sent again.
Can't wait to use it, the winter moisture is shocking atm. Everything is dripping wet indoors so this should help a lot to protect my stuff and cars.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
