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Painting engine tinware

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pfillery Insano Dub Head

734 posts · joined Dec 2011 ·

#939607
Looking at the pros and cons of painting my tin as opposed to replacing it.

Sme bits are quite cheap to buy new so wondered is it worth cleaning, degreasing, sanding and painting old tinware?

Also what sort of paint is best if I decide to go this way (which I will do with some) - does it need a high temp paint or is a good epoxy all that is required?

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#939610
Hi

I use White Knight satin black, reasonably durable. Genuine tin usually fits better than new replacements.

Steve

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#939632
pfillery wrote:Looking at the pros and cons of painting my tin as opposed to replacing it.

Sme bits are quite cheap to buy new so wondered is it worth cleaning, degreasing, sanding and painting old tinware?

Also what sort of paint is best if I decide to go this way (which I will do with some) - does it need a high temp paint or is a good epoxy all that is required?
Hi
I use white knight undercoat and Kilrust gloss paint
these tend to stick together really good...
I always leave the undercoat on for at least one day or more in the sun... lol

I have used High Temp paint but its not glossy..
but none of them usually off.. lol

it IS worth it to do the original tinware..

the new ones don't fit as good... and are usually thinner metal... many people have tried them then went back to the originals.. because of the poor fit..

I usually go back to bare metal...
but its not probably neccesary..

cheers

LEE

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- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Paulc1964au Custom Title Time!

1,627 posts · joined Mar 2010 ·

#939638
ok have done some research and what I have found is if you have original German tinware then you cant get any better than that.

For my new engine build I am using my existing tinware and having it powder coated
/url]Streetwise Aircooled Volkswagens
My 69 Bug

snitz Wolfsburg Wizard

605 posts · joined Sep 2008 ·

#939646
If your using all your original tinware definately powdercoat..cheaper than sanding,prepping and painting in 2pak.Very durable.Make sure they block any threaded inserts or areas where you put in clips etc..in the tinware as it will fill up with powdercoat or just re-tap after powdercoating.

pfillery Insano Dub Head

734 posts · joined Dec 2011 ·

#939772
So obviously doesn't have to be high temp paint as such? You can get a pretty good VHT paint which is nice and glossy so might go with that. My fan housing is pretty good, just things like the underside tin and heat exchanger surrounds need a hit but would probably use muffler paint for the exchangers.

Powder coat is considerably more pricey from what I've looked into, plus the downtime of a couple of weeks.

psimitar Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,506 posts · joined Jan 2009 ·

#939884
take a look at my resto thread but I cleaned up my original tin and then used 3M high temp paint from Supercheap.

Came out looking like original Matt Satin Black and seems pretty hard wearing so far 🙂
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#939911
Forget the aftermarket tin, it rattles, cracks and fits poorly, good condition OEM tin wins hands down everytime.

I've run colourcoded detailed engine bays for about 15 years now and have always found if you put the effort into prep and use good quality paint it holds up well and looks awesome.
In saying that though with the last VW engine I built I took the plunge and had some original tin powder coated gloss white.

It wasn't as costly as I would have though ($120 5 years ago) and I was really impressed with how durable it was, very resistant to chipping and scratching and oil stains polished straight off.
Well worth it if you plan on keeping the car.

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#939912
Joel wrote:Forget the aftermarket tin, it rattles, cracks and fits poorly, good condition OEM tin wins hands down everytime.
x10
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

pfillery Insano Dub Head

734 posts · joined Dec 2011 ·

#940077
Powder coat is a lot more than that now. I was working for a place making light fittings etc and we had a pretty good deal with powdercoaters and the prices were high. Around $80 to do a wheel rim. It used to be $30 but environmental penalties and other costs have lifted it. Not as bad as galvanising but getting there. They wanted $200 to 2pak a steering wheel and that was not counting prep.

The other obvious problem is downtime. Can't drive with engine tin off.

Thanks for the advice, I think I'll go with one of the good paints and use my original tin. Just got to get the time to do it now.

hellbugged 48's and straight cuts

5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·

#940083
If you really want to use a VHT paint that requires curing/baking then make sure you follow the instuctions and bake it in an oven to avoid it failing completely

I just use a rattle can, killrust, white knight etc