Hi Everyone, just wondering if anyone knows where to get C Channel in Australia? I have priced it from the US and it's over $100 for postage for an length that only costs $6.50. I hoped that I might be able to get here and save the postage.
Do you mean the channels in the door window frames?
Available from any VW parts supplier that is sponsoring the website.
I'm actually after the metal channel that holds the bonnet and engine lid seals in place. It's spot welded in but has corroded away so I need the replace the metal channel and the only place I have been able to find it is the US and UK, both with excessive postage costs.
both vintage and classic veedub have it. im sue one of the Melbourne ones would have it as well
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
That's great, I tried both their web sites but couldn't find it so I figured they didn't stock it. Also every time I try calling Classic Vee Dub I get either an engaged signal or no one answers.
hes bloody hard to get hold of that one
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
I need the same channeling for the front hood on my 66 beetle. How did you go? Did you manage to get some? How much was it? Cheers gary
gulf blue1966 Beetle,1500 manual.
Just a suggestion but why don't you get rid of it and use brazillian rubber seals instead
If your car lives outside they are a rust trap. Do a search for my car, Marty, in Members Rides and you will see what I mean
Futue te ipsum!!!
I just checked out your car Bizarre, looks good, where did you get the Brazilian rubber seal from? Could you get a seal from a place like Clark rubber? Cheers gary
gulf blue1966 Beetle,1500 manual.
yep - Clark rubber or there is a place called Grippie or Grippy
There is a few places sell them
You can also get them from most VW shops as a kit
Futue te ipsum!!!
I brought a few sections from H & M Ferman's in Penshurst.
So do you cut the metal channel off if you're using the Brazillian rubber? And if so, what's the tidiest way of doing that? Sounds like what I'll need to do on mine.
By the way, sweet car Bizarre.
I used a sharp wood chisel to remove the C Channel by chiseling the spot welds, keeping the chisel flat to the metal it attaches to. I then used a grinder with a flap disc to clean up the spot welds. It came up really well. Bizarre was right about it being a rust trap and I like what he did with his, however I would have kept the one closest to the windscreen so that you don't have the rubber edge showing through. The C Channel is for my Brother in Laws 64 Beetle and he hasn't bought it yet. I bought some myself ages ago but I can't remember where I got it from or how much it costs.
I have just bought 2 1 meter lengths from classic eve dub for $25.00 a length, plus $18.00 for postage. They were very helpful, will be going back to them for other parts I may need in the future.
gulf blue1966 Beetle,1500 manual.
Great, I will let my Brother in Law know they have it. That beats the $100 postage he was quoted from the US.
Sbug 71 wrote:So do you cut the metal channel off if you're using the Brazillian rubber? And if so, what's the tidiest way of doing that? Sounds like what I'll need to do on mine.
By the way, sweet car Bizarre.
Hi
as said You chisel off the spot welds and then clean the welds with a flap disc on an angle grinder..
the replacement metal channels used to be very expensive and they came bare metal so some good anti rusting would be needed.
I fitted the brasillian seals on the engine lid and the bonnet.
across the top of the bonnet I used some high density foam strip I had.. it had adhesive on one side and I stuck it under the bonnet.. and I've never had any water in the boot..
I still have a new top bonnet seal for just in case.. lol
I bought the brasillian seals from vintage vee dub in sydney..
the brasillian seals may be available from clark rubber as a generic seal.. You just need to know what it looks like as there are many to choose from.. also check out ebay..
cheers
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Thanks Lee
I'm getting rust repaired in the fromt apron in the next couple of weeks so I'll look into the brazillian rubbers as a replacemunt after the rust is cut out. It sounds like a good solution. After you cleaned the welds up with the flap disk did you need to coat it with rust inhibiter or something similar before fitting the rubber?
Cheers, Sean.
So my Brother in Law is going to remove all the C Channel from his car. It's to late for mine though as I have replaced it already and the painter has nearly finished so I don't want the expence of him removing it and repairing the parts he has already painted. I'll just wait for it to rust and remove it then (hopefully years down the track).
We are painting my Brother in Laws in my shed though and being a former spray painter I know that I will have to remove as much of the rust as possible, deoxidine the metal(rust converter), etch prime, prime and then topcoat (solid colour or COB). You need the paint thickness to stop moisture penetration and therefore stop rust. Hope that helps Sean.
Yes as a former spraypainter I should paint my own car but I also know that a spray shop has a lot more gear that I don't have, mainly a booth, and that will make the job that much quicker and give a better finish...... ok and I'm getting lazy.
Just for those that are interested, my brother in law came over on the long weekend and we removed all of his C channel in favour of using the aftermarket seals and removing a potential future rust problem. I have attached photos of what we did for those that are thinking of doing the same thing.
Being a former spray painter I consider these the correct steps to take for a successful outcome with long term rust preservation. Because I have changed careers and have not painted for 15 years I understand that things may have changed and someone may have a better idea on home to achieve good results. If so then please feel free to put them on this forum.
1. Chisel off C channel
2. Use wire wheel to remove excess rust
3. Grind down spot welds with flap disc
4. Wipe all metal down with rust converter
5. Etch prime all bare metal
6. Skim area with body filler
7. Sand filler to smooth
8. Etch prime any bare metal
9. Spray primer filler
10. Sand primer filler
11. Top coat.
I will spread the photos over the next few replies.
next 3 steps
next 2 steps as we have not painted the car yet.
brilliant - he wont regret it 👍
Futue te ipsum!!!
Great advice mate, thanks heaps for the professional insight. Gives me some confidence to have a crack at doing some body work for the first time. I'll still get someone with more skills than myself to repair the main rust holes in the apron but the rest I can handle with that guidance you've provided. I trust there'll be a few dubbers out there going "OOH, So THAT'S how you do it!"
Cheers.
On my list of things to do... Just need to find a chisel now 🙂
