I want to take out my beam and give it a clean/regrease and paint. Upon inspection before removal I have noticed a lot of the rubbers actualy in the beam and where it mounts to the body are pretty perished. I have done searches on the net and can only find bush kits in urethane for the beam not any of the mounting rubbers ( my swing axle also needs a set of them).
Does anywhere sell them or would i have to get them made custom or adapt something else.
The body mounting pads are made by West Coast Metric, available from Vintage Vee Dub Supplies and no doubt at many other specialty Vee Dub shops
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Cheers matt will give them a call.
I have never removed a beam before is there a way to remove without needing a wheel alignment afterwards. I have got a paint pen to mark the location of things.
What should I be servicing/replacing while its out, I know i need ball joints as one has a split in the rubber seal. Should I also do the tie rod ends. My steering is pretty good at the moment (not much free play).
You won't need an alignment if the steering box location is not moved (or anything else for that matter), but I always remove it from the beam and leave it behind (in the car) when removing the beam, it is way easier. A torn boot doesn't mean the joint is stuffed, you must check everything for play (b/j's and tie rod ends). This is done by compressing/squeezing TRE's and lower B/J's, upper B/J's by levering apart (on type 1 only, type 2 and 3 are opposite for B/J's), any movement and replacement should be considered.
New boots are redily available at any Auto parts store.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Thanks matty your a legend, ill have to check them out for movement. And grab some new boots.
I didn't pull the beam just yet might collect some parts first. So i just regreased it for now. When I greased the lower left hand torsion arm water came out of the bush. Would this be a worry. I did gave the beam a hit with a pressure washer about a week or so ago and have driven around in the rain a couple of times.
Some (very little, at least one) rubber are reproduced rest are NLA
the rest are either NOS if you can find them, good used or use solid derlin or aluminum mounts.
Mario from T3HQ reproduces one of them, VVDS sell nos or new? ones the same are Mario sells.
ISP west sell the rear aluminum ones.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
thanks vlad. Pretty amazing sometimes how many parts available for beetle/kombi and even ghias but not much for type 3's.
Does replacing the rubbers with aluminium have any impact on ride quality or vibration?
nsuwift wrote:thanks vlad. Pretty amazing sometimes how many parts available for beetle/kombi and even ghias but not much for type 3's.
Does replacing the rubbers with aluminium have any impact on ride quality or vibration?
You'll notice a little more noise in the cabin, but nothing too bad IMO. It will make the back of the car much more solid and sturdy with horse power thrown at it.
humpty wrote:nsuwift wrote:thanks vlad. Pretty amazing sometimes how many parts available for beetle/kombi and even ghias but not much for type 3's.
Does replacing the rubbers with aluminium have any impact on ride quality or vibration?
You'll notice a little more noise in the cabin, but nothing too bad IMO. It will make the back of the car much more solid and sturdy with horse power thrown at it.
yep, but it will handle heaps better. less wheel hop as well.
its the only way I have my cars, nice harsh road feel and much refined handling. I can't stand floaty spongy feeling cars.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
