Hi all; I'm helping my son do up his first car and his gearshift keeps popping out of the coupling (bloody dangerous as it just rotates and cant engage a gear). We've replaced the bushing in the tunnel and the the gearshift housing and played around with the shifter alignment in the tunnel etc for hours.
Anyone else had this problem? BTW is the gearshift in a '72 type 3 supposed to be bent or straight? I'm wondering if someone has replaced it with an incorrect one in the past?? (maybe we should replace the whole lot-shifter, spring, housing etc)
Also- does anyone sell a bolt on hella conversion for the headlights?
have a look at the distance that the shift rod is down from the top of the tunnel as the rod may have been bent down when the bush was worn and the shift ball ran up on it,I have a couple of gear levers,the early one is straight and a 73 that has an extended z shape if you need one,the basic depth is the same i think. You can buy halogen globes for the headlights.Does the headlight bucket have the 3 mounting points inside,if so the T2/golf lights should screw in.
I am certain all type 3 are straight and only bugs have some with z rods.
all late type 3 are all straight with absolute certainty unless someone has proof of the part existing.
As for the gear shifter popping out, I had this happen on my 73 and I think the cause was the fact the engine mount brackets were broken and the engine sat about 50mm lower at the rear which tilted the shift rod up at the rear which in turn tilted the front end down. it was a significant amount. I would also check shift lock plate adjustments and shifter ball end for excessive wear, etc...
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:I am certain all type 3 are straight and only bugs have some with z rods.
all late type 3 are all straight with absolute certainty unless someone has proof of the part existing.
As for the gear shifter popping out, I had this happen on my 73 and I think the cause was the fact the engine mount brackets were broken and the engine sat about 50mm lower at the rear which tilted the shift rod up at the rear which in turn tilted the front end down. it was a significant amount. I would also check shift lock plate adjustments and shifter ball end for excessive wear, etc...
vlad I am losing touch with the type 3's yes I remember the rear mounting brackets used to crack and let the engine drop,I have seen a lot of hideous repairs over the years. I dismantled a few 73's last year and one had a z shaped stick, I will have a close look at it to see if it was welded.
Cheers Les
I checked the parts book, very early models have a different part number for the rod so it maybe a z type. All latter use a single part number and since none of the later ones I have seen have been the z type I can assume there is none for the later models.
My old 73 SB had straight rod. I had a few of these rods spare in my shed few years ago. all were straight but that doesn't mean someone didn't replace it with the incorrect type in the one you pulled apart.
I agree, the later rear mounting system is notorious for failing. I like the earlier frame horn design better as it has potential for for kafer bars coupled with IRS conversion. Then you have win win situation 👍
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Check the measurement from under the pivot ball of the stick to the centre of the pin which locates in the shift rod. The early stick which has around a 10 degree bend is around 34mm from under the ball to centre of pin. The later ones which I think was from around 70 on had a straighter stick from memory and has a measurement of 43 mm. Maybe someone has matched an early stick in a later housing which means the stick isn't engaging the right amount into the shift rod socket.
Early sticks moved through a greater distance than late ones. Sort of like using a "quick shift" unit if you use the later ones in early cars.
Not sure what is meant by the "Z" type. ???
Early mount has the lip for the large shift boot. Later has a flat outer flange and used a small shift boot.
Late type on right with early boot on it! Note the different distance from pivot ball to pin. 34mm on left, 43mm on right one.
vlad01 wrote:I checked the parts book, very early models have a different part number for the rod so it maybe a z type. All latter use a single part number and since none of the later ones I have seen have been the z type I can assume there is none for the later models.
My old 73 SB had straight rod. I had a few of these rods spare in my shed few years ago. all were straight but that doesn't mean someone didn't replace it with the incorrect type in the one you pulled apart.
I agree, the later rear mounting system is notorious for failing. I like the earlier frame horn design better as it has potential for for kafer bars coupled with IRS conversion. Then you have win win situation 👍
some 73s did have a z rod
volkaholics.net come check us out
Big difference in those shifters..
so, an incorrect shifter rod in the wrong shifter mount would make it way out...
I never thought there would have been a difference in the shifter pivot ball height..
and have never ever checked them side by side... lol
I have noticed differences in the shifter mounting base...
but that was all...
shifters with a bend in them usually have a locating pin in the base ball piece so the shifter cannot be rotated about..
straight shifters didn't need that locating pin...
as it didn't matter where the shifter was located...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
68AutoBug wrote:Big difference in those shifters..
so, an incorrect shifter rod in the wrong shifter mount would make it way out...
I never thought there would have been a difference in the shifter pivot ball height..
and have never ever checked them side by side... lol
I have noticed differences in the shifter mounting base...
but that was all...
shifters with a bend in them usually have a locating pin in the base ball piece so the shifter cannot be rotated about..
straight shifters didn't need that locating pin...
as it didn't matter where the shifter was located...
Lee
The early ones made us use the old Empi "quickshift" accessory Lee! Too much stick travel. We made plenty of copies at the old Eveleigh Loco Works at Redfern during the 60s.
😂 Maybe I'll change the S to the later one again!
DH
dragsters for life wrote:vlad01 wrote:I checked the parts book, very early models have a different part number for the rod so it maybe a z type. All latter use a single part number and since none of the later ones I have seen have been the z type I can assume there is none for the later models.
My old 73 SB had straight rod. I had a few of these rods spare in my shed few years ago. all were straight but that doesn't mean someone didn't replace it with the incorrect type in the one you pulled apart.
I agree, the later rear mounting system is notorious for failing. I like the earlier frame horn design better as it has potential for for kafer bars coupled with IRS conversion. Then you have win win situation 👍
some 73s did have a z rod
got proof and a part number?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Thanks for your help everyone.
FYI we lashed out and invested in the Bentley workshop manual and it appears the gearshift is correct for the car (10 degree bent type, short ball length, flat mounting flange etc )
We will be checking the engine mounts etc on the weekend....otherwise there is a nice ford laser the neighbors are selling for $800.....
Found out mine wouldn't stay in gear because the gear splines were worn, resulted in a new box.
I was told early golf headlights will fit with minimal fabrication.
Tuned Type IV power - shaking out the rust.
grumble wrote:vlad01 wrote:I am certain all type 3 are straight and only bugs have some with z rods.
all late type 3 are all straight with absolute certainty unless someone has proof of the part existing.
As for the gear shifter popping out, I had this happen on my 73 and I think the cause was the fact the engine mount brackets were broken and the engine sat about 50mm lower at the rear which tilted the shift rod up at the rear which in turn tilted the front end down. it was a significant amount. I would also check shift lock plate adjustments and shifter ball end for excessive wear, etc...
vlad I am losing touch with the type 3's yes I remember the rear mounting brackets used to crack and let the engine drop,I have seen a lot of hideous repairs over the years. I dismantled a few 73's last year and one had a z shaped stick, I will have a close look at it to see if it was welded.
Cheers Les
vlad I checked the shifter today and it has had a section welded into it,moves the stick back quite a bit probably suit some of the "Ricer" drivers who drive with the seat reclined looking at the sky. and wonder why those parked cars run into them.
🤪😂😂Cheers Les
I believe the type 3 headlamps are the same as the later beetle headlamps.. 1968>
I always fit new Hella semi sealed beams into the original chromed rim, using early ford falcon buckets..
a bit of a fiddly job but not too difficult..
if the chromed reflector is OK.. all shiney.. no dark spots..
just fit Halogen H4 headlamp bulbs..
You will need to take a bulb with you to get the correct bulb as they aren't the common Halogen bulb..
Most VW parts shops should sell the bulbs and maybe a conversion kit..??
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
MY68VW wrote:Found out mine wouldn't stay in gear because the gear splines were worn, resulted in a new box.
I was told early golf headlights will fit with minimal fabrication.
Never tried them, but a complete headlamp may have the right bucket to bolt to the VW chromed ring or to the small brackets fitted inside the VW beetle type 3 headlamps on the body..
as was used in the USA etc..
where sealed beams had to be used - as the european type headlamps We used are illegal in the USA.. [not sure if that law is still there]
All cars in the USA had sealed beams from the 2nd world war or earlier.. [Yes, jeeps had them in the war]
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
grumble wrote:grumble wrote:vlad01 wrote:I am certain all type 3 are straight and only bugs have some with z rods.
all late type 3 are all straight with absolute certainty unless someone has proof of the part existing.
As for the gear shifter popping out, I had this happen on my 73 and I think the cause was the fact the engine mount brackets were broken and the engine sat about 50mm lower at the rear which tilted the shift rod up at the rear which in turn tilted the front end down. it was a significant amount. I would also check shift lock plate adjustments and shifter ball end for excessive wear, etc...
vlad I am losing touch with the type 3's yes I remember the rear mounting brackets used to crack and let the engine drop,I have seen a lot of hideous repairs over the years. I dismantled a few 73's last year and one had a z shaped stick, I will have a close look at it to see if it was welded.
Cheers Les
vlad I checked the shifter today and it has had a section welded into it,moves the stick back quite a bit probably suit some of the "Ricer" drivers who drive with the seat reclined looking at the sky. and wonder why those parked cars run into them.
🤪😂😂Cheers Les
lol, well theres ya problem.
good you found it.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
MY68VW wrote:Found out mine wouldn't stay in gear because the gear splines were worn, resulted in a new box.
I was told early golf headlights will fit with minimal fabrication.
he actually ment the stick fell out of the shifter.
as for your gears jumping out, new box time.
I blew one box up in my bareback. was the pinion bearing which ate its way through the 1st gear as its next to it. I was wondering why I could not turn the axles when the car was jacked up
😂
What kinda box do you need? I have a SSC super low k original box I want to off load as I been keeping it for like 8 years. No use to me now.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
haydng wrote:Thanks for your help everyone.
FYI we lashed out and invested in the Bentley workshop manual and it appears the gearshift is correct for the car (10 degree bent type, short ball length, flat mounting flange etc )
Check again with the pics posted previously. If you have the shorter length stick as in the left pic in a FLAT type plate as in the right pic it won't work. The pivot ball sits to high and the selector rod ball slips out of the rod socket.
have lites and bent shifter if still need
Bris
post no probs
want any vw bits old but like me, Made in Germany!!!
Thanks for the offer Bushed- how can I contact you?
We've checked the engine mounts and ideally I'd like a new shifter, ball housing, stop plate, and spring to remove all the variables-do you supply them new? Also some detail on the headlights would be great. Rgds Haydn
am on hols atmo
hve them in gd cond used
all nice but hve ta wait
sorry
want any vw bits old but like me, Made in Germany!!!
vlad01 wrote:MY68VW wrote:Found out mine wouldn't stay in gear because the gear splines were worn, resulted in a new box.
I was told early golf headlights will fit with minimal fabrication.
he actually ment the stick fell out of the shifter.
as for your gears jumping out, new box time.
I blew one box up in my bareback. was the pinion bearing which ate its way through the 1st gear as its next to it. I was wondering why I could not turn the axles when the car was jacked up
😂
What kinda box do you need? I have a SSC super low k original box I want to off load as I been keeping it for like 8 years. No use to me now.
4Xsun geared box is being put together, all the parts purchased just waiting on the build and installation. Standard boxes don't like what the engine asks from them.
Tuned Type IV power - shaking out the rust.
