So I have new wheel bearings and brakes to assemble on my front end.
Currently they are backing plates and bare spindles.
Should the inner bearing be a press fit? What is the best way to get this on straight?
I managed to remove the outer races from 1 drum hopefully I will get the other drum done today. Are these races supposed to be a press fit too?
What is correct procedure?
Cheers
Nicko
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
I assume that you are using the original type ball bearings,a piece of tubing that is a clearance fit is used to fit the inner bearing seat to the stub axle,fit the inner and outer bearing cups into the hub,pack the bearings with a good quality high temp wheel bearing grease ( I use the caltex Liplex which comes in a cartridge) fit the inner race into the cup then fit the seal,pack some bearing grease into the void between the bearing cups,a smear of grease on the seal lip and slide the hub carefully onto the stub axle,fit the outer race into the hub,fit the washer and nut,adjust the bearing,fit the tab and lock nut,recheck the adjustment and lock the tabs.The main thing to remember is keep everything clean and if you use disposable gloves such as Black Lightning when you are finished simply throw them away and your hands are clean.
What is the best way to fit the outer races into the hubs? Do I need a press?
When the inner bearing and grease seal are fitted to the hub, should the hub just slide onto the stub axle? Or should it be a press fit? Mine is suuuuppppper tight.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
A good pin punch will do but care is needed to keep the race straight in the hub. Both bearing inner races should be a neat slide onto the stub, otherwise they will be painfully sticking to the stub when servicing the brakes.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
SKF have a good document about different ways of fitting bearings and the impact it has on the life of the bearing, it is very hard at home to fit them with basic tools, at work all bearing/housings are heated with a induction heater to 120 degrees, but this is impractical at home, i use a hydraulic press for the outers on my cars and as Matt says the inners should just slide on.
If you are converting from early ball bearings to tapered rollers, there may be a diffetence in the tolerance on the stub axle.
It IS the same nominal size, but i do recall a tolerance/fit difference, particularly on the inner bearing.
Otherwise check for burrs(Raymonds).
Use a good work shop manual and you will learn alot.
Craig Torrens wrote:I use a large socket as a drift and just tap them in with a mallet.
I don't like to tell people that as a lot of years ago i was doing exactly that when the chrome on the socket shattered and a bit flew into my eye the pain a few hours was extreme and I also lost some vision due to the doctor and specialist chopping and stuffing about. Eye protection and all safety precautions.
I never hit a bearing and i have seen a outer race chipped, i made some aluminium disc's that i use to press the bearing into place and as above it is best to use eye protection when working on your car doing anything, if you use safety glasses all the time it becomes second nature.
vwo60 wrote:I never hit a bearing and i have seen a outer race chipped, i made some aluminium disc's that i use to press the bearing into place and as above it is best to use eye protection when working on your car doing anything, if you use safety glasses all the time it becomes second nature.
Back then there was only the old protector safety glasses,the shard came under the glasses, glanced off my nose and deflected into the eye,Supercheap have sets of the alloy bearing /seal installers and they are reasonably cheap but save a lot of time and the part goes in straight.
I use the old out race to get them started and then tap them in with a 25mm brass drift. I usually have to redress the brass drift a few times as it gets knocked around by the bearing.
Steve
edit you need to feel that dud thud when the bearing bottoms out in the housing otherwise the bearing is not seated properly
