just thought i would put this out there, would like to see what peoples engines are running at with reference to engine oil temp and what gauges they're using.
is 100 degree's too hot
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
I try to kep mine around 100 degrees, my engine is a 2275 with 10.8 to one, i read my temp after the cooler so i know it is effective, if you buy a IR gun you can measure the temp at diffrent points around the engine, it is very interesting.
Super1302 wrote:Yeah, sits on about 100 - 102 celcius
Where do you have your temp sender? Off your topic but I am about to fit one and have heard of different places eg: sump, oil gallery after cooler etc.
Good to read what other people are posting about acceptable temps
When hot oil cools down, it absorbs moisture. If oil is not getting up to or over 100 degrees Celsius, it will not boil the moisture out of the oil.
Getting an engine up to temperature for a reasonable amount of time will keep the oil in good condition. Cheers Dave
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
As others have said, you really want to get over 100 so any water has a chance to boil out. This normally shows up as that mayonnaise type gunk on underside of the filler cap.
IMHO 105'ish is a nice temp... 115 back off, 120 switch off.
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If you point the IR gun at the sump you will not get the oil temp, you will get the case temp with heat migrating down from the barrels and other parts that generate heat, this is why i will not put the sender in the easy location, the block of plate for the type three dip stick, if you measure the oil coming out of the sump at a fitting on the output hose mine reads about 15 to 20 degrees lower than the case, if you know what the delta T across the cooler you can work out the oil temp in the sump by adding this to the oil temp comming out of the cooler, i never try to run my mineral oil over the 100 degrees as it can change the structure of the oil and have never had any issues with foam in the oil filler on any of my engines, i also run a thermostat in my system as it gets the oil up to temp quicker have a controller that runs the fan on the cooler so you can set the turn on and turn of point to suit what ever you want. i have since changed the oil cooler since this photo was taken to a truecool that is 11" square. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENGINE-GUARDIAN-EG-2-WATCHDOG-TEMP-SENSOR-GAUGE-ALARM-/181090554051?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a29d690c3
It would be extreme day for the oil temp in my sons 1303 to go near 100 c, this is measured at the Type 3 blank off location, motor is a mild 1904 cc with no internal cooler and a front mounted cooler using a thermostat.
Steve
newghiastock is for people who cant think outside the square
Just ran the single port, single relief , twin carb, blow through turbo type 3 ghia to Melbourne & back over the weekend,
Even with one lead being off for a while, the hottest it got all trip was 114 on the gauge, just backed off a bit & it came down fairly quickly, most of the trip was during the day & at around 105 Klm's an hour.
My oil temp sender is at the block off plate, after talking to Rod Penrose today it seems to be normal. And also taking to dyno soon for a tune at southern motorworks:-)
Another thing to consider is the type, and quality of the oil......and how long it's been since the last oil change.
Different types and brands 'break down' at different temperatures, and deteriorate with use and contamination.....use good quality oil, and change it regularly.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
sander288 wrote:Here's a service notice from VW in 1957; so 1200's with non-doghouse coolers and single relief cases etc etc.... gives an idea of optimal temps though
That is a great piece of information,as for which is the best oil the answer is like the old piece of string. I have used a lot of name brand oils including caltex and Valvoline,currently I use Valvoline semi synthetic 15w40 and change it regularly.
