Hey guys
Sorry if the question is a little naive as I've never actually done this before and i'm no mechanic, but I have NO IDEA how to work out the number of shims to use (upper/lower/inner/outer) when connecting the spindle/knuckle to the trailing arms.
We initially did five inner and outer, top and bottom, figured we'd split it down the middle. But i have just been informed that this may not be correct, as how you set up the shims will affect the camber.
I am running an adjustable 4.5" narrowed beam with drop spindles.
Is there anyone else running a similar set up who can shed some light on this?
What is the best way to do this, and how many shims would go where?
Will the height of the car determine how many shims we will put where?
Is there a fixed rule, or is it something that needs to be worked out on a vehicle by vehicle basis?
There is a table that gives you the exact number depending on a critical measurement.
To get the desired number, you need to put a straight edge against the lower arm where the link pin shims sit. with the straight edge projected up past the top arm, you need to acurately measure the gap between the straight edge and the upper arm again where the link pins sit.
You must have a total of eight shims if your arms have the internal chamfer that uses the O-ring and O-ring retainer shim. If the arms don't have the chamfer (pre 58 I believe) you need to get some more shims and add two on the inboard pack, upper and lower.
I'm sure some-one will post up the chart, of find it on The Samba tech reference or similar
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Does this need to be measured with the car off the ground or on the ground. Also bcs im running an adjustable beam, would this also have effect on the measurement?
your measuring the trailing arms before fittind the stub axle/link-pin carriers so naturally off the ground with the arms at droop. There is an effect of your adjustable beam, but as long as the arms are near parallel all is good.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:your measuring the trailing arms before fittind the stub axle/link-pin carriers so naturally off the ground with the arms at droop. There is an effect of your adjustable beam, but as long as the arms are near parallel all is good.
Whoops. Of course!!! My bad. Thx for the info.
Cheers! I think im going to have to get someone with a little more experience with this to help me put this thing together as I really want this done right.
dude, if you'd said this mid march I was down in Melbourne. Woulda taken around 1-2hrs to do. 🙂
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Ok one last question, i have read that 1960 was the changeover year from 10 to 8 shims... was this the case in Australia and if so is there anything that will tell me if i should be using 8 or 10?
Its all going in tomorrow so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
It is the thrust area on the end of the trailing arms, on the later cars they use a replacable thrust washer, the earlier cars do not have this. you need to have a good manual for this type of work so there is a clear explanation in front of you. A good investment.
hrastovica wrote:Ok one last question, i have read that 1960 was the changeover year from 10 to 8 shims... was this the case in Australia and if so is there anything that will tell me if i should be using 8 or 10?
Its all going in tomorrow so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
As Shayne said, and in my first post, the post 60 arms has an internal chamfer for the O-ring cap, pre 60 the arm link-pin thrust surface is totally flat with a hole in the middle.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Hey guys thanks heaps for your help!!
Went through your advice and the links you gave me (plus the service manual) and we were able to install everything properly 🙂
Thanks again!!!
