Hi all, I have been doing a lot of research and am marginally confused, most (non vw) seem to run scavenge side directly to tank, then the feed side through filter and coolers then into the block. engine>pump>tank>pump>filter>cooler>engine
Was reading on UAC, our US cousins were saying scavenge side... engine>pump>filter>cooler>tank>pump>engine...
Just really wanting to know from those who are running drysumps how you plumbed up. I can see the second one being a lot less plumbing length and being -12 theres a few bucks in it.
Also tank size ?
Thanks
See if you can buy, borrow, or steal a copy of Carroll Smith's book "Prepare To Win". That's what I used for details of the dry-sump system on my VW Sports Sedan. It worked fine.
From memory it went.....scavenge pump, filter, cooler, tank, pressure pump. I think the tank held about 6 litres of oil, the rest for de-aeration. A tall, skinny tank is best.
One thing I found with the dry-sump was the crankcase ran hotter, due to lack of oil 'sloshing' around in the case.
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
I run mine the same as you first said engine, pump, tank, pump, filter, cooler, engine, just check your oil pressure as you may need to run a bypass at the filter. I ran mine like that for ages with no problems.
BEING ASPIRATED FEELS GREAT BUT BEING BLOWN TAKES THING TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL....
I run mine like Greg, but can't see any probs really going the other way round providing you have filter between scavenge pump and tank still.
Like Greg said would help de-aeration and also a good safe guard from an engine failure putting metal through the entire system.
Always good idea to run the stock pickup screen too.
👍
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my setup has been for the last 11 yrs has been ,
tank-pump-filter-engine -scavenge-tank.
a screen in the sump to get all the chunky bits but no filter on the return to the tank( dont like them there)
if you do run a bearing or do other damage you have to pull the whole oil system out and clean it,
if you run a cooler DONT CLEAN IT,throw it out as they cant be cleaned properly
and for shit sake get a tank that splits in 2 as ally can set like concrete (i know,believe me)
lastly clean all the hoses and fittings, and tear the pump apart and do that as well
how do i know all this, i am a F$#^%@ expert
Pick-up screen is good, Sides....protects your EXPENSIVE pump. You need big everything on the scavenge system [lines, filter, cooler etc.]. I used 2 X 13 row coolers in parallel. Get the oil to the tank QUICKLY. A well designed tank will get rid of the air in the oil.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
I do it like your second option, my cooler is huge and I feel it can only help with de-airation and it fitted my layout/plumbing better, also it means all cooler and filter plumbing sees no pressure due to being a return-to-tank.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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here's a quick diagram
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How many of you actually have 11 liters in your tank??? If not how much??? I notice the drag guys go one way and the circuit guys go the other....Has this got to do with higher revs for a shorter time?????
I think I'll run engine pump filter coolers tank pump,engine, will simplify and shorten the plumbing a bit. I hear you on the cooler front, new ones going in.
Sounds good, Sluggo.👍
Make sure you use a high-flow filter [like the Porsche 911 one], as you must drain the crankcase faster than it can fill.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
How about the Canton ones, I have a Peterson priming filter holder, and as I am typing this I realised unless that is on the pressure side it wont work.... Hmmm maybe two filters one on the scavenge and one on the pressure side ?
Adrian , It is advisable to have the filter in the pressure side of the system and not the scavenge . I have been using mine this way for almost 20 years and have never had a problem . It is also advisable to have a screen before the scavenge side just in case you have a mishap . With the ( Pauter) pump you have , you must use an external pick-up , such as an Autocraft maybe . These pick-ups have the mesh built in to protect the pump . The idea is to have no restrictions at all on the scavenge return back to the tank . When the system works well enough you will notice that the oil level in the tank will actually rise when under revs . If this occurs your scavenge is working effectively . Remember the gears in the scavenge side of the pump are twice the size of the pressure side . You need to return the oil to the tank ASAP , ROD . PS I finally got that other deal worked out .
More boost + More fuel = More power
1968 Beetle fastest run 8.96 sec @ 161 mph 4th Nov. 2001
2010 New Beetle 8.12 sec on 8th march 2014
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Have a good look at the little oil pump drive tab that fits into the slot at the end of the camshaft, then decide how much work it can do.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Its going on this, to much invested to get it wrong !!
Adrian , that is perfect . The pick-up's in the Pauter sumps have an internal screen to protect the pump in the event of a mishap . Did you decide to put a filter in the pressure side of the system . I also presume that the 1st scavenge chamber has been tee'd for a rocker box outlet . ROD .
More boost + More fuel = More power
1968 Beetle fastest run 8.96 sec @ 161 mph 4th Nov. 2001
2010 New Beetle 8.12 sec on 8th march 2014
http://www.rodpenroseracing.com.au
RodPenrose wrote:Adrian , that is perfect . The pick-up's in the Pauter sumps have an internal screen to protect the pump in the event of a mishap . Did you decide to put a filter in the pressure side of the system . I also presume that the 1st scavenge chamber has been tee'd for a rocker box outlet . ROD .
Yeah T is for rocker area, and yep will run filter and coolers on pressure side.
That's some big gun stuff going on right there. 👍
