Heres a couple of pics of the main cap mounts in the case. Do they look ok to go again? sorry about pic quality, can take more if needed. Cheers.
Matt, Aircooled have the Bugpack Pro St and 044, only have Los Panchitos in 90.5 and bigger, although they do have PN:500-240
DP STD Bore 40X35.5 for a decent price, wonder if these would be ok?
Feel any ridges and bumps when you run your finger nail across the bearing seat surface?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Nah, feels better than dragging your nails across a blackboard......
Hard to be sure with the small pics but looks pretty good. Those heads, the 500-420 look ok, they do the Los-Panchito too and mention they are good for 1600 as I was mentioning. The step in your old heads should be machined to be equalised (made the same) then use copper head gaskets if required to get a safe deck height depending on chamber volume to get required compression ratio.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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the bearing have been shuffling.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
The chap who align-bored my 356 case finished the mains with a hone. When I asked why, he told me the fine finish is preferable for heat dissipation, and also the final hone finish is very accurate.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
HappyDaze wrote:The chap who align-bored my 356 case finished the mains with a hone. When I asked why, he told me the fine finish is preferable for heat dissipation, and also the final hone finish is very accurate.
correct, coz at microscopic level the surface area is much larger for transferring heat better also the crosshatching give a better bite to the bearing shell.
This is a more common practice on cast iron or steel saddles and main caps, rod ends though, never see it on alloy myself.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:the bearing have been shuffling.
Front to rear? Should be ok if I get good clearances with the new bearings and the correct shims for the flywheel?
just vibrating around from the case not being rigid enough and unbalanced rotation mass, i think the correct term is fretting.
does your saddle matting surfaces have a funny pattern on them? like this?

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:just vibrating around from the case not being rigid enough and unbalanced rotation mass, i think the correct term is fretting.
does your saddle matting surfaces have a funny pattern on them? like this?
Mating surfaces look pretty good, couple of scratches where I cleaned the sealant off but no funny patterns.
Dont know whats going on with the pic sizing, when I send it to myself from my fone it is 1.6 Mb but when I open my email it is this tiny size everytime....WTF
photo bucket time! this forum is useless for uploading pics
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Yeah, better pic would help. The saddle mating face does look shiney. Are the any ridges ariund the stud hole...close up pic please....
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Shit, that was no good. Will go and find the thread on how to do this
See if this works
Yeeehaaaa, will bang some more up
Heres more
Last one
Looks good to me to run Dave, as long as no ridge to be felt at the centre main location where that oil groove is up the back of the bearing. The other check is with the case torqued together, no gap is present at the cxentre main saddles, both with and without the bearings installed.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE