So I am making progress and setback 🙂
But here is a few pics.
I have the motor mounted but could not get the nut on the stud that is at the starter, Stud is up against the starter. I will read Joels thread again and see what he did and copy it.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
I figured since I was not going to use the AC that it would be easier to just flip the manifold and make the bracket to move the alternator.. Could some of you that have done that post some pics so I can get and Idea if not copy yours... also do I need to flip the coil pack around too? Thanks in advance.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
So I think that I may have gotten ripped of by enginewiring.com .. I sent them my harness and ECU 4 weeks ago and heard nothing back, I finally got ahold of them a week later they told me it was all done and waiting to be shipped once payment was made. I payed them thru paypal and a week goes by, No contact from them and no ECU or harness, It took about another week to get ahold of them again and I was told they will look into it and get back to me with a tracking # of shipment. That was over a week ago and no contact and they do not answer or return calls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am very mad right now. I knew I should have just bought the stinger standalone from outfront.. But now I cannot even do that since I dont have the harness plugs to send them to wire the custom harness for me.. Hopefully they can resolve this in a few days or I am going to have to have paypal return my money and sue them for the cost of purchasing a new ECU and harness from a Dealer. .... That is what is on my mind right now..
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
They stock a lot of standard and special connectors and plugs used on many cars. 👍
Can't find the plug you want? no problem, just remove the connector terminals out of the plug, match them up and buy new ones, re-terminate and away you go!
The best stuff is the resin impregnated fiber glass sleeving 😵💫😍
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Ok so I did finally get a hold of the guy who did my harness and he sorted me out on everything to to.. Which is exactly what Joel told me. Go figure .. Joel you are a encyclopedia of knowledge!!! But he did say that I have to run one of the relay wires to power fused and other to fuel pump and fans. I will be out of town for the next few weeks, but when I get back I am going to put this bad boy together. I have all the suspension parts from topline (front brakes conversion, Maxx struts, Camber + kit and 7/8 lower sway bar... Etc EVERYTHING I could buy and a few more things he talked me into, because it made sense. Overall I spent about $3800 in goodies from Topline. Ooops did not count that in the budget, but a budget is just a guideline anyway.. 🙂
I will be updating this post in a week or two with some pics of the goodies and then when I start assembling I will take many pics and update every other day. If your interested in seeing my screw things up 🙂
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
Joel wrote:It's abit harder with Subis are there are so many different plugs, especially on those early OBD1 cars and they changed almost every year.
That's why I always tell people buy a complete donor car so the engine matches the loom and ECU.
Thats easier said than done, I find a lot of older cars the plugs are stuffed as well as wires brittle so a remake of the loom is always needed and good excuse to build a custom one than to fudge up a crusty band-aided one.
Yes there is heaps of plugs, that why you take the time to look through the catalogs and pick the right ones for the job 👍
to make a one good loom you probably need 4 donor cars and hope all the wiring is still good lol, so imo its easier and cheaper to buy the wires, plugs and connectors you need to rebuild the loom.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
vlad01 wrote:Thats easier said than done, I find a lot of older cars the plugs are stuffed as well as wires brittle so a remake of the loom is always needed and good excuse to build a custom one than to fudge up a crusty band-aided one.
Yes there is heaps of plugs, that why you take the time to look through the catalogs and pick the right ones for the job 👍
to make a one good loom you probably need 4 donor cars and hope all the wiring is still good lol, so imo its easier and cheaper to buy the wires, plugs and connectors you need to rebuild the loom.
Try playing around with Subarus not poorly built Commodores and find out what quality electrics are like 😉
Its easy as to find a Subi donor, there is nearly 100 Libertys for under $1000 and that's just on Gumtree, and thats not looking at Ebay or Imprezas, foresters etc.
vlad01 wrote:Thats easier said than done, I find a lot of older cars the plugs are stuffed as well as wires brittle so a remake of the loom is always needed and good excuse to build a custom one than to fudge up a crusty band-aided one.
Yes there is heaps of plugs, that why you take the time to look through the catalogs and pick the right ones for the job 👍
to make a one good loom you probably need 4 donor cars and hope all the wiring is still good lol, so imo its easier and cheaper to buy the wires, plugs and connectors you need to rebuild the loom.
Try playing around with Subarus not poorly built Commodores and find out what quality electrics are like 😉
Its easy as to find a Subi donor, there is nearly 100 Libertys for under $1000 and that's just on Gumtree, and thats not looking at Ebay or Imprezas, foresters etc.
A bit worse I reckon,they are less flexible with the electrics compared to delco system as the delco is one of the best stock designed systems out there as it is a mix of German, Jap and Korean components and millions was spent developing the system over 2 decades.
And you saying suby electrics are the best? I still did rewiring jobs on them with my last job, mostly problems with the injector plugs. I am telling you now, they shared some common connectors as its jap.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
It did not work 🙁 ...
I have everything wire correctly and there is power going into the main power relay but nothing coming out.. I payed to have the harness done, so maybe it was not done right. back to no harness if I cannot figure it out.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
Well after talking with the guy who did my harness for about an hour and having him walk me thru all the electrical testing of the harness for grounds, power, etc.... We figured out my ECU is fried!
Minus the shipping delay, Enginewiring.com has done an exceptional job with the harness and help after.. So I am now off to the junk yard to get a few ECU's to try.. Hopefully it will start tongiht.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
Got a ECU from the junk yard and still the relays for main power and fuel pump were not turning on from ECU so I figure I would just hook them up to the ignition power and it worked..... Here is video.. She is ALIVE!
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
You have your fuel system setup almost identical to mine. Just make sure you have a fuel filter before everything that is also easy to get to to make changing it easy
It is.. 🙂
the fuel filter is the first thing the fuel goes thru. Then it fills the surge tank.
Also I got the rest of my suspension from Topline today (Jon is great to work with and is very quick on turn around from purchase. Great quality stuff too)... And both front and rear disc brake conversion.. My rims come tomorrow.. And thanks to Joel for letting me know about 45's not working in the front, I changed my tires before they were mounted... 215/40's for the front now and 215/45's on the rear.. Pics coming soon! Well once I get some time to mount everything. Also my wife is in Paris for 2 weeks so I will have some free time to work on the Bug.
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.