Just out of curiosity I put these numbers into the calculator to see what it thinks. And have 36mm of toe change at the edge of the wheel! Lets hope that real life and my 2D drawing is a little better than that!
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Geez! You guys take cutting the ass off a beetle and putting big tyres on to a whole new level!
Sorry about the roll over. Maybe you could cut the roof and make a convertable baja 😁 That lift kit is gonna be awesome, looks heavy though. Do like the box you got and I thought about a difflock for Al but after nearly $4 grand to get it rebuilt I couldn't afford it as well. Enjoy seeing your work Smiley!
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
Nice work smiley, the drawing lookes pretty much like mine did.
The mass toe change you are getting from the calculator is the difference between link and ball joint tube spacing.
quick reason why you can't spread your link pin tubes to match ball joint frame head
Quit calling rust patina
nils wrote:Nice work smiley, the drawing lookes pretty much like mine did.
The mass toe change you are getting from the calculator is the difference between link and ball joint tube spacing.
quick reason why you can't spread your link pin tubes to match ball joint frame head
But I changed the spacing in the calc to be correct for Link Pin though. Still doesn't seem to like it. Oh well.
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
So this afternoon I had a little time spare so I dragged out the extension lead and cut the front off a spare floorpan I had. I wasn't long before it was back in the shed and making headway to being ready to put on the front of my pan.
I've also decided to move it forward a touch, about 60mm, in case I want longer arms later. You guys are a bad influence on me!!
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Monster Garage! Aussie Style :P
I want to see before and afters for sure! When replacing the frame head, do you put extra bracing or the new welds are just as strong?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
I plan on plating it on the inside of the tunnel. Plus I will also have extra frontend supports welded back to my floorpan/lift area.
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Smiley wrote:You guys are a bad influence on me!!
Smiley 🙂
YES
Smiley wrote:nils wrote:Nice work smiley, the drawing lookes pretty much like mine did.
The mass toe change you are getting from the calculator is the difference between link and ball joint tube spacing.
quick reason why you can't spread your link pin tubes to match ball joint frame head
But I changed the spacing in the calc to be correct for Link Pin though. Still doesn't seem to like it. Oh well.
Smiley
🙂
Haven't got any answers for you then smiley, but if it makes you feel better never could get mine to work out on the calculator either. Figure, seeing as how it is designed for ball joint there is something else that needs changing to make it work for what we are doing.
Think we need Wes' big brain for that.
Quit calling rust patina
HI Smiley and Nils
looks like a fun build .
that's the same locker I used in my 4spd 2ltr box. with a bit of machining , left side in the front top corner the diff case there should be enough room for the vacuum actuator.
have a look at the JB camira rack n pinion steering. the tie rods are bolted to the centre of the rack rather than the end. The long tie rods makes for bugger all bump steer. I'll post a pic tonight if can figure how
cheers
Dude ,
Surely that can't be the best frame head cut you can find , there's more metal on the floor than whats left in that thing .
I don't know how far you intend on going with this rebirth of Alyce but if it we're me i'dd be loosing the frame head all together,cap off the end of the tunnel like the Americans and building foward with barwork only which ties back into a internal roll cage similar to Nil's car , and i'mm sure if Nils was to redo his car he would do the same .
Hell with a widened beam and the braced beam the frame head is going to do bugger all anyway apart from make the front end weigh to much ,so loose it now and it'll be one less item you'll be doing rust repairs on in 12 months or sooner by the look of it !!!
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
wild baja wrote:that's the same locker I used in my 4spd 2ltr box. with a bit of machining , left side in the front top corner the diff case there should be enough room for the vacuum actuator.
have a look at the JB camira rack n pinion steering. the tie rods are bolted to the centre of the rack rather than the end. The long tie rods makes for bugger all bump steer. I'll post a pic tonight if can figure how
The rack I have should be bugger all bump steer too. I just have tp get it in the correct position first!! If you have pictures please post them up. I'm always keen to see people trying new things.
OZ Towdster wrote:Dude ,
Surely that can't be the best frame head cut you can find , there's more metal on the floor than whats left in that thing .
Hey man. Most of the stuff that is on the ground is dirt and crap from inside the napoleon's hat section. It was full up to the bottom of the master cylinder. Th tunnel still looks all solid so far, but I will make a final assessment once I cu the bottom open and can see inside properly. If it is no good then I will have to try and source another good one. This is the best one I had. The only others are the one that was originally under this car, which you will remember was cracked everywhere. Or another that was from an ex SIDS rally car, and it is patched and plated in a number of areas so I didn't want to use it.
OZ Towdster wrote:I don't know how far you intend on going with this rebirth of Alyce but if it we're me i'dd be loosing the frame head all together,cap off the end of the tunnel like the Americans and building foward with barwork only which ties back into a internal roll cage similar to Nil's car , and i'mm sure if Nils was to redo his car he would do the same .
Hell with a widened beam and the braced beam the frame head is going to do bugger all anyway apart from make the front end weigh to much ,so loose it now and it'll be one less item you'll be doing rust repairs on in 12 months or sooner by the look of it !!!
This is good advice, if I never wanted to drive the car again. The first time I get pulled over the car would be permanently defected. Internal roll cages that are more than 4 point are no longer legal in Queensland. Plus this car is still going to be my daily driver, so I don't want to go too crazy, plus I would like it back on the road this year.
I think I'm going to have enough hassles with the police as it is without cutting the whole front of the car off.
Anyone got a good condition link pin framehead that I can have? I can pick it up from Warwick if need be.
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Smiley is right on this one Andrew. Though are cars may not be strictly 100% legal, that would be the difference between an officer not quite putting his finger on what is different and realising your frame head is missing.
I noticed too that by the new VSB set of rules there are is no more than 4 points and 6 for wagons, What are the regoéd rally cars going to do? surely there is a way around this. ICV perhaps? I know I have played with the idea.
Guess that puts me it the same unique position as you Andrew, There is no way in hell that you would be able to get another toad regoéd in OZ by todays conditions. Now I seem to have the last of the full cages in my baja, with no way to recreate it.
Quit calling rust patina
nils wrote:Andrew, There is no way in hell that you would be able to get another toad regoéd in Qld
MMMMMMMMMMM really , don't believe what you read on forums lads
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
nils wrote:What are the regoéd rally cars going to do? surely there is a way around this.
They are all pissed off. Existing cars are ok, but you can't build new ones. One of the local guys up here that runs one has been butting heads with them over this since they bought it out. As he was thinking of updating to a new car.
I just can't understand how making you car much safer can be illegal. Stupidest rules ever!
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
wild baja wrote:HI Smiley and Nils
looks like a fun build .
that's the same locker I used in my 4spd 2ltr box. with a bit of machining , left side in the front top corner the diff case there should be enough room for the vacuum actuatorsteer.
cheers
hi stephen,
Will have to catch up again over summer, still have that Ti sheet you where chasing.
I will pick your brain in regards to your locker too, seeing as I now have a vw box after all
Quit calling rust patina
Hi smiley here that pic of my steering setup. cheers
Very neat install!
How did you end up calculating the bumpsteer? Did you use Wes' Calc or just try mounting it up with no torsion bars and trial and error adjusting the rack position slightly?
I have 2 rack at home that are similar. But they are Daewoo power racks like what Nils is running. I decided to run the Gold rack to keep it in the family. Tie rods are avalible for balljoint or Link pin spindles like I mentioned. And the rack ends are the exact perfect length for a 2" widened VW beam. So I don't have to cut them down and try and rethread them. Plus it came at the right price, (Thanks VWNuts!!)
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
bajachris88 wrote:nah. reasonably priced sc12's disappeared as soon as i started lookin. Penty of sc14's but they are harder to fit. would be good to work out the sc14 as the whole supercharger setup could be shifted to a 2ltr in the future. (although i haven't even got thoughts of that, but he work involved i want universal-ability)
The motor is lookin schmick though, heads all torqued up right now, cams on, bling new tinware, valve covers, pulleys, gen pulley and stand, oil filter and german h/d larger oil pump. Haven't fitted go-fast bits yet.
Bought the acid from my pool shop today to dip the dog house fan shroud and clean the surface rust off it, then give it a red coat of gloss :P
I don't wanna buy a new one cause i haven't seem em available in red. lol, although it would be much easier
Hey Chris & Smiley, don't know if this helps but I have thought of using an SC14 with a Porsche shroud so that I could mount it off to the side. Anyway just thought I'd throw in 2 bobs worth.
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
Not much progress this weekend. I picked up some new rear torsion bars for the baja.....
....and also a notchback. Well.........bits of one 😀
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Is the squareback an auto?
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]mackaymanx wrote:Is the squareback an auto?
Nope. Manual job.
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
I like your notch!
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
wild baja wrote:Hi smiley here that pic of my steering setup. cheers
What is the rack out of?
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I think he said that it was a JB Camira rack. They are similar to a Daewoo rack but the arms connect to the back side inside of the front on a Daewoo.
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Yeah mate JB camira rack, pretty sure you still have to turn the body around, same as the daewoo.
if wildbaja doesn't reply i will send him an sms to clear that up
Quit calling rust patina
I've gotten a tiny bit more work done on the car over the last few days.
Started out with a few more things to sort out on the front end. Starting with the torsion bars.
And you can see here that I'm spoiled for choice!
I require 4 packs for my new front end. 2 packs in each tube which need to be cut down to length.
I started by pulling each set apart and cleaning them all. Inspecting for damage and checking for broken leaves. After this I taped them up and cut them into the required packs. All I had to do was cut them off 25mm (1") further over from the centre set screw dimple and we were set.
When I had them cut I fitted them to the beam with the arms. This allowed me to measure the spacing between the arms and the beams. As well as measure the difference in the arms and work out the shim packs for the link pins. I also gave the spindles a good cleaning, they were covered in old grease. And fitted them up with the correct shims. I will be replacing the link pins before final assembly, but this is just to allow me to assemble the front and so I can cycle the suspension and check the bump steer in my rack position.
I then assembled the beam with threaded rods. I put double nuts on the inside of the arms to space them out the correct distance from the beam (you can see the measurements on the beam, and the shim arrangement for each link pin).
I then went up and had a dig through my stash until I found 4 old swingaxle rear snubber mounts. I will be using these as the front snubbers for my beam. First I cut the rubber down in size, might trim a little more yet these are just the old rubbers for mock up. And then I have to work out where I need to mount them on the front end. Both will act on the upper arm, one in between the arms for droop and one above the upper arm for compression. I will have to trim the metal and add gusset plates in. Real estate is a little tight in between the arms but I'm sure I can get it to fit.
I am aware that they should be mounted without the rubber fitted so that the metal is actual final stop. That way if the rubber splits and falls out, wears out and gets completely smooshed I won't be binding up my shocks.
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Today I got to work on finishing off the lift kit so I can start the bodywork. Really need to get moving on this now.
Started out with making the piece that goes across the back under the rear seat. Here is the bit that 'curves' around the shifter outlet. And some pictures of it in place on the body and the pan.
Then I made up the 2 side piece that connect this up to the edges of the lift kit.
Up front I have fabricated the firewall section of the kit. Had to cut some of the body out of the way to get it sitting in place right.
All ready to be welded together in the morning!
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
I did a little more mocking up of the trans and working out where I want it to sit.
I spaced the back up around 15mm and dropped the nose down as far as I could. I want to try and keep some good clearance under the engine case so it's not the lowest part of the car.
This is as far as I could drop the front without the mounting studs starting to have clearance issues on the torsion housing. Also, much lower than this and the front of the trans would be hanging down lower than the pan. You can see I have the centre piece of the lift kit sitting in place to see how it looks.
And here is one of the engine mounts that I will be using. It's off a '97 model Toyota Camry. I will be using two more of these either side on the bellhousing.
I made up this mount for the front of the gearbox that will connect up to that mount. It is skinnier in the middle to fit into the gap where the torsion housing goes to a smaller diameter in the middle. This all fits in there with 5-10mm of clearance all around.
I went ahead and tacked the front section of the lift kit in place.
I tacked the 3 rear pieces together but haven't joined them up to the rest of the lift yet. I figured it would be easier to get them fitting right over the rear of the floorpan first.
I cut the bottom off the centre piece. This will be extended straight down onto the top of the torsion housing. And had to scollop some holes on the bottom to clear the two humps that are the very front of the framehorns.
Thanks for looking.
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Dude , it is all looking very nice and neat as usual ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, but holy hell it's gunna be heavy , that lift kit should be made out of 4mm material absolute maximum but as youv've already done such a nice job you just need to be mindfull of other ways you can keep the car light as you continue on .
With your snubbers made from rear bump stops i don't believe you will ever get them to be strong enough in that they are going to end up to close to the pivot point of the arms and as such the arms will have to much power over them and continually destroy them .
Sorry to be the thorn in your side as usual .
Andrew
Oh and in that last pic DON'T be welding over the tops of your rear horns directly to the channel as it will create a bad stress point , just weld along the bottom flange of the pfc , ie : front to back where it butts into the side of the horn and leave the bit over the top floating as it will be plenty strong enough anyway .
Also ensure that the rear torsion tubes are staight up and down and front to rear and tie them into the lift kit with some nice 100mm long plates , not just the weak as original cast mounts .
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
