Hey guys (and gals),
I have a '65 type 1 (1200cc, 40 hp) and when i cut the key, the engine likes to keep turning over and 'running' for a few seconds or more. It is painful to hear b/c i know it must be doing a number to my crankshaft among other things.
There is no electromagnetic solinoid, only a screw with a spring where one maybe used to be. Also the automatic choke has been disabled by a previous owner and the butterfly valve is all the way open (straight up). Not sure what to look at next, I'm a bit lost. Any help is appreciated.
Cheers
Blake
Gday Blake,
That is pre ignition,
Your jetting is too rich or too much timing
Todays shitty fuels don't help either.
Get your timing checked first, especially if its had the token 009 distributor fitted.
A lot of people play guess work with them and just static time them.
Thanks Joel,
I have it static timed, but the static spark clicks before the rotor is pointing to the little notches cut into the distributor. I will play around with it some more.
Sorry, but I'm a little slow here. If my jetting is too rich, would just replacing the main jet solve the problem? Or can I adjust it?
Appreciate the help
hmm... if its running when you turn the key off, it should be the 'idle fuel circuit' as opposed to idle jet as jets won't kick in until your foot opens that throttle and you pick up some revs.
So... the idle mixture adjuster screw is your friend 👍
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Preignition is primarily caused by too hot running engine, which can be caused by incorrect ignition timing so definately get that right. It is set via the crank pulley marks NOT the marks on the distributer rim. Then look into the tinware being complete and fitted properly. You don't want the cooling fan drawing in hot air that has already cooled the engine and further heated from the exhaust so all tin and seals must be in good nick. Take a pic pf your engine bay, after 40 years, who knows what is in there...can show a multitude of issues.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Blake,
This will give you the lowdown on timing the 009 dissy.
http://www.vw-resource.com/009_dizzy.html
And here it shows how to measure around the crank pulley and make timing marks so you can time the 009 @ 3,000 rpm.
http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html#marks
It wouldn't hurt to install a shut off solenoid too.
Regards,
Matt.
Hi Guys,
Only time I have had an engine running with the ignition turned off was back in the 70s when My rear engined Renault R10 and its little 1108cc engine did 100 mph with the help of a big long downhill section of road... engine was very hot.. lol.. only did it the once..
Lee
Have sent You a PM
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Are you running standard unleaded fuel?
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!😂
We had a Lada samara "paddock basher" that did this all the time, but it was just a copy of a mazda 232/ford laser 😂
Ignition was nothing to do with it in my case.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Timing
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous 🥷
Hey guys,
Sorry, I had a sort of family issue come up and haven't had any time for the VW. Thanks for all the answers.
I do not have the 009 distributor
My carb is the 28 PICT
Yes, it seems that timing is the main problem, but it isn't long before I have to reset it. I didn't realize that the timing would get off so quickly. I just tightened up the distributor in place today, so I'll see if the timing will stay set for a bit longer this time.
Yes, I am running on standard unleaded fuel (and putting in a lead additive)...i guess you suggest a better fuel?
Would anyone recommend a different sized main jet?
Also, I turned the idle air adjust screw right up to almost wide open and everything seems to be going better.
Is it necessary that I install a shut off solenoid?
Thanks for all of the help, have a picture of my engine bay for you guys...but can't seem to figure out how to attach the file....
rustys wrote:Yes, it seems that timing is the main problem, but it isn't long before I have to reset it. I didn't realize that the timing would get off so quickly. I just tightened up the distributor in place today, so I'll see if the timing will stay set for a bit longer this time.
....
my guess is points are closing up then
That would cause running on
Either the little screw is loose holding the base plate of the spring steel in the points itself is rubbish
Wouldnt be the first time I have seen that
I would be considering an electronic upgrade if it is the points
Futue te ipsum!!!
Good quality points with the bakelite rubbing block are getting rare now..
many are plastic.. and they don;t come with a little bubble of grease..
but the rubbing block does still need to be greased...
lubricated..
and some wear down really fast.. which changes the timing..
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I have a old car that runs better some days hen others.
all you do is park the car in first , hand brake on and foot on the brake. then at the same time turn the key off and smoothly let the clutcthch up and not more running on 😊 as the motor will stall.
ps points closing will not cause car to run on .
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
ian.mezz wrote:ps points closing will not cause car to run on .
MMM…… point closing will throw your timing way out.
Screw not done up and gap opening will do the same - well reverse.
Are you saying this wont effect things and may cause run on?
I have had shit quality points where there was no spring in the steel and point just flapped in the breeze.
That definitely caused run on.
Futue te ipsum!!!
The points opening is what causes the spark to be initiated. If they stayed closed it wouldn't fire at all because you would have no field collapse. You'd just have a nice little magnetic field build up and do stuff all else except maybe burn out your points.
Points closing (from spec) will do as stated.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
