Dim headlights, sick sounding horn but starts fine. Ideas?

pfillery Insano Dub Head

734 posts · joined Dec 2011 · 18 Oct 2013, 12:52 pm

#973043

It's a hybrid beetle owned by someone I know (not "hybrid" as such, just a mix of parts, I believe a later pan with an early body) running 12v with a genny, battery believed to be good, generator light comes on but belt is ok. Battery is believed to be good but will verify when I take a look at it. I'm thinking the voltage regulator might be stuffed. Seems like the system isn't getting the juice it should be.

Any other ideas? Regulators can be cleaned up and given a new lease of life can't they?

AA003 Custom Title Time!

1,189 posts · joined Oct 2011 · 18 Oct 2013, 7:10 pm

#973088

Could be ignition switch.

I read it on samba, so it must be correct.

Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!😂

pfillery Insano Dub Head

734 posts · joined Dec 2011 · 18 Oct 2013, 7:55 pm

#973094

Owner has replaced the ignition switch with a new one. Made no difference unfortunately. Maybe the wiring in between?

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,789 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 18 Oct 2013, 8:55 pm

#973101

Have you checked the earths on the head lights

loose "-ve's" on the headlight plug are notorious for dim head lights

Horns can just be rubbish

get a multi meter and check for 12 volts on lights and horn would be the first step

Futue te ipsum!!!

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 18 Oct 2013, 10:59 pm

#973106

pfillery wrote:Owner has replaced the ignition switch with a new one. Made no difference unfortunately. Maybe the wiring in between?

Hi Paul
Yes its the earth contacts... screws screwed into the body etc get contaminated over the years... so replace the screws with zinc plated or stainless steel ones.. Use the next size up so the screw cleans the hole as it makes it

Earth strap at battery needs the paint takken off and the suface cleaned..
also check the fuse boxes etc they get contaminated too

cheers

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

psimitar Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,506 posts · joined Jan 2009 · 19 Oct 2013, 11:26 am

#973135

You really need a multimeter so you can check the charge voltage and then the light etc voltages.

With the engine running above 1500rpm you should get over 14v across the battery terminals. 13.8v is absolute minimum as genny ain't as constant as an alternator.

If the light still don't go out and you are seeing less than 13.8v then regulator is stuffed or could just be the brushes in the genny are badly worn. 2 things to check there.

Even without the engine running and a good battery showing 12.3-12.6v across it's terminals you should have good lights and horn. So first you check at the fusebox for those circuits. Both incoming feed side and outgoing fused side. Give or take a few 0.1 of a volt you should see the same as the battery voltage. Any less and it means corroded fusbox terms or ign switch is tired. Check output from ign switch.

If voltage at fusebox is OK then check at lights with neg lead of multimetter connected to a clean solid earth on the body. If voltage is close to fusebox then means you have corroded earth connection for lights. Same for the horn.

Most wiring faults in old VWs are down to bad earths, worn switches and old, oxidised wiring.

madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍

greedy53 Bishop of Volkswagenism

3,062 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 23 Oct 2013, 5:26 pm

#973514

sounds like eaths as nearly every thing has an earth,first check battery than every earth you can find headlights taillights wiper you get the picture starte has a good earth

👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓

pfillery Insano Dub Head

734 posts · joined Dec 2011 · 24 Oct 2013, 7:34 am

#973552

Went and took a look and the earth strap from the battery was almost entirely frayed through. Only about 1/3 of the copper wire was actually intact. I'm surprised it started at all. Plus the contacts were dirty and too large for the posts. They will sort all those things out and it should improve everything. Will also be cleaning the fusebox.

Interestingly, they replaced the ignition switch which is the in column type (fitted with later column) and now the car turns over but won't actually fire until you let go of the switch. This is a bit unusual - maybe mixed something up or just not getting enough power with the dodgy earth strap?

vduboy Insano Dub Head

702 posts · joined Oct 2012 · 24 Oct 2013, 10:56 am

#973558

pfillery wrote:Went and took a look and the earth strap from the battery was almost entirely frayed through. Only about 1/3 of the copper wire was actually intact. I'm surprised it started at all. Plus the contacts were dirty and too large for the posts. They will sort all those things out and it should improve everything. Will also be cleaning the fusebox.

Interestingly, they replaced the ignition switch which is the in column type (fitted with later column) and now the car turns over but won't actually fire until you let go of the switch. This is a bit unusual - maybe mixed something up or just not getting enough power with the dodgy earth strap?

I get these exact symptoms at work on the old TCI ignition motorbikes when they get voltage drops to the coils while cranking. The earth strap will probably cure all your woes.

It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 24 Oct 2013, 12:33 pm

#973563

pfillery wrote:Interestingly, they replaced the ignition switch which is the in column type (fitted with later column) and now the car turns over but won't actually fire until you let go of the switch. This is a bit unusual - maybe mixed something up or just not getting enough power with the dodgy earth strap?

Hi

Are the red ignition lights staying on when you crank the motor or do they only work when you let go of the key?

If they do go out the new ignition switch is no good.

I had a stuffed ignition switch in my old 1302, you could slightly move the key in the start position to get the lights to come on and the car would then start.

Steve

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 24 Oct 2013, 12:38 pm

#973565

pfillery wrote:Interestingly, they replaced the ignition switch which is the in column type (fitted with later column) and now the car turns over but won't actually fire until you let go of the switch. This is a bit unusual - maybe mixed something up or just not getting enough power with the dodgy earth strap?

If the column is a 71 or later they have probably used the wrong cable for ignition power.

There is 2 on 71 and later ignition switches but one is meant only for the headlights and wipers as it goes open circuit during cranking for max power to the starter and coil.

Make sure they ignition circuit is powered by 15 (black) and not X (black with yellow trace) if its a 4 wire 71 on switch and not a 3 wire 68-70.

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 24 Oct 2013, 2:00 pm

#973568

good thinking Joel