PS sadly the rest of the car is already painted using somewhat more dubious prep methods... except the rear bumper, which is still mostly chromed; would this be a reasonable thing to put over the chrome if I rough it up a little, or should I use a self etch 1k rattle can primer instead/as well on it?
Peter Leonard wrote:likely to stand up to temps around the cylinders and in the engine bay with all the vibrations and oil mist and heat etc etc?
So for a poorly balanced motor with blowby and heat issues ? 😂
nope, this one's built by Stan, not you 😂
just wondering if anyone out there with any paint experience has painted vw engine tinware with the aforementioned layers and it's stood the test of time...
I'm going high build epoxy over sandblasted bare metal to hide the welded up bits and make it look shiiiiny and smoooooth once it's all 2k cleared over my candy ghost flame basecoat 😎😎
as I've already 2k'd the rest of the car whatever dangerous isocyanates and chemicals I'm going to get with spraying these bit are a drop in the ocean 🤓
Cheers Helbus,
So bare metal, epoxy primer, sanding/bodyfiller, graphics/basecoat, 2k clear is good, or should there be another 2k primer between sanding and basecoat whether there's filler or not?
sprayed the epoxy primer with a 1.8 tip and I have to say it levels out better than I thought it would... hence the slightly overwet application and the runs 🙁
Still, that's what sanding sponges are for, and it's mostly to keep it safe from rust and tart it up a little. Next layer will be 2k primer in readiness for the fun part 🙂
amazing how many cracks and holes you find under all the old paint....
sadly the epoxy did not fill them 🙂
had the bumper brackets and a few other little bits blasted at the same time, so they get the treatment too.
Guess we're going to see .... unfortunately this is the original original cylinder tin from my first ever beetle and it's been with me since day one on each engine iteration, so it's been through hell. If I'd welded and panel-beat the buggers before I began all this powdercoating would have been great, but as you can see they're in fairly ordinary condition. I'm hoping that filler and sanding and 50 coats of clear will make them look reasonable, but I'm not hoping for a miracle 🤓
Will post the stages as I go as a cautionary example for others 🙄
Sweet fella, you'll f
Ind once assembled the odd marks and imperfections will not be as noticeable. If you are really fussy you could wet sand or spray a guide coat. I would bog and sand as necessary then reprise prior to base coat.
I guess I'm going to see how it goes with the 2K.. failrly late in the piece to change tack now. Reckon polyester spray putty will handle the cylinder and head temps under the tinware okay? That stuff hides damn near anything.
so when you REALLLLY look at your tinware you realise it has a lot of weird lumpy and bent bits that are not so much fun to fill and sand. anyway- here's the next stage of the tinware paintup thread. one day I hope to actually fit it to an engine rather than leaving it strewn about the alfresco area in various stages of completion.
and some other bits copped a little primer while the gun was out 🙂
time will tell how long it lasts (especially the bumper which is reasonably well chromed underneath the epoxy and 2k primer)
Frankly I'm not keen on hearing time's opinion until the last possible minute.
let sleeping dubs lie
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
Peter Leonard wrote:PS sadly the rest of the car is already painted using somewhat more dubious prep methods... except the rear bumper, which is still mostly chromed; would this be a reasonable thing to put over the chrome if I rough it up a little, or should I use a self etch 1k rattle can primer instead/as well on it?
Hi Peter
I had a rear bumper which was still chromed but was discoloured?
so, I used a fine wet and dry paper all over and sprayed with a rattle can with VHT silver paint... [from memory] that was in 2004 and the bumper is sitting on My carport roof still the same..
I believe I did use an undercoat of some kind??
I wasn't sure if the paint would stick to the chrome but it did.
I have painted My engine tinware a few times using VHT High Temperature rattle can.. mostly its a dull finish, even when overcoated with glossy high temp paint... but sticks good..
Last time [always bare metal] I used a rattle can undercoat and then a few top coats of Killrust EPOXY paint.. now this paint sticks great, but I've found over the heads. the heat has cracked the epoxy paint... I think I used too many coats.
no problems on other parts of the tinware..
I've used this on steering wheels and steering columns and its a very tough paint...
I believe the 2k should stand up to the heat OK...
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Hi Lee,
familiar with the results spray can jobs, but this one's going to try and be a bit more pro looking 😉 The killrust stuff is pretty good if you're just covering up the odd scratch and looking to improve the appearance in a basic way, but I'm aiming for something that looks like it's been carefully applied. All my last 'paintjobs' on the tinware were like that, and they stood up fairly well, but they didn't like degreasers and never looked quite right.
thanks to the 36 degrees in perth nothing has happened Paint-wise this weekend. just saying. unless you count emptying out my paint storage locker when my HOK Tangerine Kandy Koncentrate tin sprung a leak and ran down over everything underneath the top shelf 🙁
did do some more wiring tho 🙂
Hot weather again, but not being one to listen to the voice of reason I busted out the LVLP, the sanding pads, the basecoat, the prepsol, the plastic sheeting and the thinners. But not in that order. I used some old dried up basecoat that had been sitting around since the original painting began 2 years ago as the latest batch of base didn't quite match. Incredibly it reverted to liquid form and is a brilliant match in the bumper and supports 🙂 Way too hot to mess with the clear and by Sunday arvo the bugs were out and sniffing the 2k thinners, so I'll give it all a light rub over next weekend and bomb it with clear next Sunday morning -with any luck. The wierd shaped pieces are going to be prone to runs and be a b1tch to get even so I predict a fair bit of post painting cutting and buffing is in my near future. pics to follow when they get here from the box across the room.
this happened after the black basecoat but it's hard to see until the clear goes on and you get some sun on it, so y'all have to wait til nex tahm, y'hear 🤓
We have clearcoat.......
a few runs and dry bits here and there, and some of the prep was not what you'd call concourse or professional, or even passable, but we have clear.
pics to come as soon as my camera monkey has finished screwing around trying to make it look okay. 🙂
why not bare metal chemical strip them and por15 them few coats, sand and coat again for filling/smoothing pits?
you could also use their engine enamel if you didn't want to use the rust preventative paint. That fills imperfections even better! its really really high solids paint.
Their stuff is tough as! and resits high temps, fills pits well and very nice finish.
Also, alternative.
bare metal chemically stripped and treated
wattle super epoxy super etch
high temp rated epoxy. (POR15 top coat range)
cheap and good alternative 2.
bare metal chemically stripped
acid etch treated, rinse and dry.
VHT engine enamel.
bake in oven 100ºC for 1 hour
tough as boots, sticks like dog shit and lasts years on sumps where stones chip are common and much longer in the engine bay.
only it doesn't fill pits.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
but they're already painted 🙂 promise to post pics shortly, even tho they're not cut and buffed.
There used to be a product made by taubmans/white knight called SLS etch primer. Legend has it that the letters stood for 'Sticks Like Shit', as it was named after the results came back from the tests the industrial chemists ran. I like to believe it 🙂
Meanwhile I'm using epoxy, 2k primer, black base, HOK 'Orion Silver Shimrin', four or five candy colours mixed in intercoat clear, topped with generic 2K clear. 'twill be interesting to see how they stand up to the rigours of an aircooled engine bay 🙂
