I thought I'd start this thread, as I could find very little information about restoring this type of headlight assembly, as the information was mainly for the sealed beam units in the US. This restoration also applies to Bosch headlight assemblies made the same way and for Kombis.
Anyway, here's the headlight I started with.
Crusty old thing from about 1964 or later.
The bucket in the photo below is plastic. Yes, Hella replaced the earlier metal bucket to a grey plastic bucket in about 1964. I was in luck that it was neither cracked or distorted as plastic would become after nearly fifty years.
Disassembling the headlight assembly and waiting what was in store for me. Care must be taken when removing the spring clips. They can fly out and become lost, or worse, take an eye out. This assembly only had three spring clips installed.
The reflector wasn't in the best shape, and needs to be replated. The chrome outer ring looks better than it does in the photo. The plastic bucket was in exceptional shape, with very little discolouration to the plastic. The lens is not cracked which is a major bonus.
The bucket as you can see is intact.
The chrome ring is also in good shape with no dents.
After a bit of elbow grease cleaning and polishing the parts and renewing what had to be renewed, here is the assembly and final product.
Firstly the lens. Rinsed and then washed with warm soapy water and a sponge with the finest of scouring pads to get as much of the dirt out of the fluting inside the glass.
Next is the lens with a new rubber seal.
Next. The reflector was replated in chrome. Not bad for $45.00 per reflector, and the finish is fantastic. Others try "chrome paint", but it does not reflect like the chrome. There are even those that try foil glued to the reflector or use aluminium tape.
I know there are those that will say "Silvering" is the only way to replate the reflectors to their original finish as it is about 90% reflective to chrome's 70%, but the cost is about triple that of chrome, and you're still not guaranteed of a great finish.
Then we have the plastic bucket cleaned and polished with "Silvo" which is a fine polish for chrome, sliver etc. The discolouration was polished out, and the gloss restored to the plastic bucket.
The chrome ring came in for some special treatment being polished with Silvo. The result is fantastic.
Mounting the lens onto the bucket.
And the finished product. One restored headlight assembly.
The spattering on the back of the reflector is the chrome from plating. This isn't seen when installed, so it matters very little. To me anyway.
The parts that had to be changed or replaced that were missing are:
1. Rubber seal for the lens (split).
2. Rubber grommets for the beam adjustment (hardened and cracked).
3. I bought new spring clips, but they didn't fit. I had spare old clips and reused them (reused the original three and had three spare).
4. Screw and spacer for the chrome ring attachment to the mud guard (missing).
5. Replating of the reflector.
6. I did not refit the internal reflector that sits in front of the bulb, as I run P43 halogen bulbs (60/55W). These bulbs are too long, and give a better light than the old (45/40W incandescent bulbs)
In total, it took a morning of cleaning, polishing and assembling the light assembly (not including the plating of the reflector) to have a new and ready to fit spare headlight assembly. I can safely say that the headlight assembly is mostly original and maintains the look and gives a good light.
Is the finished headlight assembly in "concourse condition"? Nope. For my purpose it doesn't need to be, as I use my '65 Bug on a daily basis, and I just need parts that work well or spares ready to go. If they look better than they work, it's not much value to me.
I hope this helps with those of you that have these types of headlights and gives a bit of an insight into these assemblies.
you can buy new hella reflectors from the UK for post and pre 67 ish or when ever the change over year was. I got mine at 50 pound each, well worth it for German made OEM refectors that are just like the originals
reflectors are actually metalized with few micron of aluminium in a vacuum chamber where they are metalized by aluminium atoms in vapor form.
Then they are seal in a kind of high temp clear chemical coating of some sort to stop the auminium oxidizing straight away being so very thin.
Aluminum reflects around 95% +
I think silver may have been used on much older cars but I can't find any info to support that silver was ever used on car headlights.
Anyway they look good.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Thanks Vlad. This was just info for those that may have wanted to "restore" their headlights if they're on a budget, but wanted more than the "chrome in a spray can" or the US style with the sealed beam with the clear glass setup.
My understanding as from what I'm led to believe from older guys in the business is that reflectors were silver sprayed in the older reflectors, because when you tried "polishing" the reflectors, you'd wear away the silver coating and end up in either the black or grey/yellow undercoat base.
Anyway, GBP50 plus postage is still over $100 per reflector, and I've been using headlights rechromed for over three years, and they're more than fine for my 6V system. The original headlights came out with 45W/40W bulbs, and I'm using 60W/55W halogens.
They're 6V and do me fine for the night driving I do around town. I can see and be seen. I wouldn't be driving outback or country roads at night, even with 100W globes on a 24V system.
oh btw here is vid of the metalizing process if anyone is interested. Similar process for automotive lights, CDs and DVDs reflectors, mirrors, insulation etc...
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
All great input, but prohibitively expensive IF you're able to find someone who will Rhodium plate or metalise something for you.
As stated earlier, this is a budget restoration of the reflector, but still doable with the ever decreasing number of plating shops and lack of availability of new reflectors unless you go for the (in my opinion) crappy US styled sealed beam clear lens look.
For those that can afford to silver plate, that's great. If there's anyone in the country that will metalise a one-off item or a few items, even better, but highly unlikely or very remote at best.
For a relatively cheap restoration and reasonably effective, chrome plating is good and has served me well.
In reality, how many air-cooled VW owners do serious night driving in their air-cooled VW's outside of the city lights? If they do, they'll be having serious spotties fitted.
That's what these forums are all about. Sharing input and ideas, and all appreciated.
as I stated before. No one in this country does it. only place I could think of is a DVD/CD producer company in Sydney that have metalizer specifically for CD and DVD and
in no way could fit other than disks in the machine.
I just wanted to point out the fact headlights are metalized, no other reason.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
I'm lucky, my old reflectors are hanging in there and with 100W QH they work fantasticly, and on country roads where I live or on 1000+km road trips 🙂
This nice OG German lense unfortunately got disposed of as it got a stone through it
Norman, if you haven't already done so, you could fit relays - and heavier gauge wiring. The voltage drop with the standard wires, and 'big' globes, on a 6v system is horrible. Just touch the wires while the lights are on high-beam, and you will know where a lot of the power is going.
You only need to use heavier wiring from the relays to the lights and power from the battery, and don't forget the earth wire. The stock wiring and switches are fine for the relay coils. Mount relays as close to the lights as possible.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
This nice OG German lense unfortunately got disposed of as it got a stone through it
Mat, that's why I invested in a $50 pair of leadlight mesh protectors couple of years ago. 25,000km's on road trips and going against road trains in the outback, and not a problem with lenses being cracked or trashed, although keeping the bug on the road from the wake of the trucks was another thing.
Norman, if you haven't already done so, you could fit relays - and heavier gauge wiring.
Greg, I had thought about it, but haven't done so. I do have some old 6V relays (that still work) as I was going to do it, but for my general purpose, clean headlight lenses and reflectors, lights aimed correctly and clean contacts work fine.
Thanks for the input guys. I for one love hearing others input and experiences, as it can only add to my little knowledge base.
