Hi Guys,
A couple of years ago I tried to get a shop to give me a 4 wheel wheel alignment. They didnt do it as they said it was too low to get on there machine.
Ive almost finished rebuilding the pan and was wondering if setting up the front and rear alignment is something that can be done before the body goes back on.
As an aside - once back on the road, Im aiming to have it a couple of inches lower than original (dont know if that will change the alignment).
It was just a thought.
(Its a new back bone, so I dont have a firm starting point for the rear alignment).
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
You can set your own toe.It's probably easier while the body is off actually, seeeing as you don't have the guards to contend with. l would get it as close to the final ride height as possible though. I use brickies string line and a level. Run 2 strings parallel along the sidewalls of your tyres at the height of your axle (you may have to do this twice as your front and rear track are probably different) and use a level for the camber.
Quit calling rust patina
You really need to set the toe with the car as it will be on the road....tank full, spare wheel, and driver in place.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
HappyDaze wrote:You really need to set the toe with the car as it will be on the road....tank full, spare wheel, and driver in place.
x2
waste of time before it's FULL weight
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:HappyDaze wrote:You really need to set the toe with the car as it will be on the road....tank full, spare wheel, and driver in place.
x2
waste of time before it's FULL weight
x3
Take it to an alignment shop,
While string and your eye will get it close a machine will get it within tenths of a millimetre across the total toe.
Cheers Col
Well if you want to do it properly 😂
Quit calling rust patina
Cheers Guys - I wasnt holding my breath on this one (just pondering).
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
Don't forget, when it's time for the wheel-alignment, any machine is only as good as its operator. 👍
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Something else that will help, when your assembling the front end, rough it out close as you go, this is important as most alignment shops don't want to spend the time fiddling with this and it's very important for a few reasons, to have min play in the steering box and to get equal turning lock-to-lock. Centre the steering box with no tie rods fitted, then set the tie rod lengths to get the wheels straight ahead by sighting the inside edge of the tyre to align it to be near the inside rear tyre edge (all at ride height ie on the ground)
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
HappyDaze wrote:You really need to set the toe with the car as it will be on the road....tank full, spare wheel, and driver in place.
exactly! does not work otherwise.
suspension and steering geometry is dynamic, thats why it need to be set in a state the car will be in most of the time.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
